cmp m1 garands tips or advice

checked it out ...............that's just crazy IMHO. I could have the 7 rifles (my picture above) and 12 ammo cans of 30 06 for the price of one rifle??? And I can shoot and enjoy every one of them. And as you can see a couple of them are about 90% metal and 90% wood finish and 95% matching parts. the ones with the CMP birch stocks are 100% metal, and all correct for the rifle, virtually brand new apart from the stock. I guess we all collect for different reasons.

I looked at the pics again and the rifles look better in person but may be between 80-90% on the wood(the two just above the birch stock in the picture). But the point I'm trying to make is still relevant.

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Originally Posted by DaveN

checked it out ...............that's just crazy IMHO. I could have the 7 rifles (my picture above) and 12 ammo cans of 30 06 for the price of one rifle??? And I can shoot and enjoy every one of them. And as you can see a couple of them are about 90% metal and 90% wood finish and 95% matching parts. the ones with the CMP birch stocks are 100% metal, and all correct for the rifle, virtually brand new apart from the stock. I guess we all collect for different reasons.

I looked at the pics again and the rifles look better in person but may be between 80-90% on the wood(the two just above the birch stock in the picture). But the point I'm trying to make is still relevant.

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What grade rifles did you get with the beech/birch wood, Sgs', or SG Special? Great looking rifles you have there!

Charlie

Service grade. I started asking for USGI wood and did not care if the wood was field grade as long as it wasn't the new stuff. I have 4 of the new ones and will swap when I go shoot for competition. My field grade purchases all came with original stamped wood heavy in oil and dings and scratches, and I love them!

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Originally Posted by DaveN

Service grade. I started asking for USGI wood and did not care if the wood was field grade as long as it wasn't the new stuff. I have 4 of the new ones and will swap when I go shoot for competition. My field grade purchases all came with original stamped wood heavy in oil and dings and scratches, and I love them!

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Do you do any trigger work on your rifles? I have a spare trigger group that I tuned up, and completely got rid of the "creep" as well as lightening the pull. Whenever I go to the range I take it with me and install it on whatever I'm shooting that day. That way I can keep the rest of my rifles with un-messed with triggers. What you said about your FGs, is what makes Garand collecting a little little different than collecting in general, IMO. My favorite FG, actually a Rack grade, I picked up at NS the same way. Soaked in cosmoline, had all the dents and dings--and it's my favorite shooter. All the imperfections are part of the rifles history.

Charlie

Charlie59 - I have just gotten my M1 from the CMP and your comment about the spare trigger group really interests me. Where do you recommend I look for the trigger group; and what did you do to tune it up? I would like to get rid of all that creep and lighten the trigger pull too.

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Originally Posted by escondido

Charlie59 - I have just gotten my M1 from the CMP and your comment about the spare trigger group really interests me. Where do you recommend I look for the trigger group; and what did you do to tune it up? I would like to get rid of all that creep and lighten the trigger pull too.

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I needed a trigger group to make a rifle all correct, so I got one at a gunshow, and ended up with a spare. If you are only going to have one Garand, it might not make financial sense to have a spare. I have several rifles I like to shoot, and don't want to alter them, so I use the one group with whatever particular rifle I take to the range. Here are a couple pics. First off, many rifles shoot fine with the trigger group they come with. But, some of mine have excessive "creep", so by honing them I not only get rid of that, I lighten the pull, too. Some guys also polish the sear, to a mirror like finish. I have had good enough results using a fine stone, and just go back and forth, until I get a trigger pull I like. Just be sure your stone only touches the spurs on the hammer, and the rear of the housing-like in my pic. The other pic shows how the sear wears from the hammer spurs. You might want to check around, I'm sure others do trigger jobs slightly different than I do.
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Charlie

Thanks for your reply. I don't want to alter the original even though it is a late 1950s manuf. Will probably look for a new trigger group at the next gun show.