6.5x55 & & 7x57 Checkout Help?

The H & N load for the Swedish 6.5x55 was tested by DEVA, and the certification is actually published in the H & N reloading manual. The trouble with such reduced loads is a) one must truly follow what they have tried and tested, and b) double-loading is possible, making check-weighing after loading an imperative safety requirement, not an option.

Patrick

http://www.imrpowder.com/PDF/Trail-Boss-data.pdf

This is what I am aware of. I tried reduced rifle loads once with another powder and got erratic (but not dangerous) results, very poor accuracy. You have to follow the instructions and all reloading precautions apply. Regardless of whatever reloading I am doing, after charging cases with powder, I always double check the cases visually under a bright light to ensure consistency. The only exception is with a progressive reloader where other quality control methods are used.

Thanks Gun Surfer! VERY interesting! I've used their basic load data a fair amount, but missed this addendum.

Thanks for the feedback and info. Too bad that such a nice rifle got blown-up due to someone's negligence.

My 7x57 BRNO headspaces well with the Clymer NO-GO gauge (bolt will not close) and on PPU 139gr ammo as a GO gauge, so should be good.
The 6.5x55 Swedish NO-GO gauge should arrive tomorrow. Then get to the range and check them out on paper.

Will be shooting both rifles in our CMP 200yd vintage military bolt-action rifle matches. Don't need such a 'hot' load for 200yd.
I'll likely load with 39gr of IMR4350 and 123gr Hornady A-Max bullets in the 6.5x55 (made in 1899) to start.
For the 7x57 I'll start with 43gr of IMR4350 with the 139gr Hornady Interbond bullet.

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Originally Posted by Andy Mac

My swede likes PPU just be carefull when reloading

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Are you speaking of reloading PPU brass? If so, what precautions, other than what one normally checks, are you speaking of. I will not be shooting cast bullets and reduced loads in my rifles. Barely have enough time to work up accurate loads for competition and stay ahead of my reloading needs with the service rifle the way it is.


Will be interesting to see if the long-barrel 6.5 Swede shoots better than the shorter barrel BRNO at 200yd. I also have a shorter barrel with correct sights for the 6.5, so if the long barrel doesn't work I'll swap the barrels and try the shorter one.

I never had problems with reloading the 6.5mm. I´m using the 139grs bullets and N140, good accuracy and far away from being critical.

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Originally Posted by Patrick Chadwick

Notoriously, SAAMI gauges tend to show all Swedes as having excessive headspace. The explanation is that these rifles were made to Swedish standards, decades before SAAMI was set up. With a matching bolt I would not worry for one second, but with any rifle, and especially with a non-matching bolt, I would take the trouble to make the elementary rough head clearance test described several times in these pages, if you just search a bit.[/I].
Patrick
:wave:
---------- Post added at 03:50 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:43 PM ----------

This is NOT a joke!

Check first that the bore is truly clear AND that the rifle has not been rechambered. There are some anonymously rechambered milsurps floating around on the West side of the pond. Illegal here, of course...

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Hi Patrick - As you suggested, my 6.5 Swedish Mauser will close (with some effort) on the Forster NO-GO gauge. It does have a matching bolt and receiver, so that is good. Am thinking I'll simply fire the PPU 139gr ammo I've purchased and it will resize the cases upon firing. All else looks good. I may purchase some Winchester cases and size them by firing with 15gr of Titegroup topped with Cream-of-Wheat cereal and a cotton patch. Does a good job of resizing 22-250 cases for the 6.5 Creedmoor, so should work equally well for the 6.5 Swede.

And, I will definitely be checking that the rifle hasn't been rechambered. Thanks.

You can get a 6.5mm gauge to close (with some effort)??? NO effort at all!!! Please, easy goes it with headspace gauges. Use only 2 fingers as you GENTLY close the bolt. Any resistance is it. You are finished. Make sure the chamber is free of grease and the gauge is likewise clean. Good luck, sounds like the rifle is good to go.

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Originally Posted by gpdavis2

Am thinking I'll simply fire the PPU 139gr ammo I've purchased and it will resize the cases upon firing.

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Good, but don't forget to only use neck-sizing for reloads, so that you are not repeatedly setting back the shoulder! I.e get a neck-sizing die, or simply screw out the sizing die about 1/4 turn from the "zeroed" setting. You know you have got it right if, after resizing a fired (but not polished) case, there is a tiny ring of darkened sizer lubricant around the neck/shoulder transition, and no rubbing mark on the shoulder. With practice, you will also be able to see this ring on polished cases.

Good-quality neck-sized cases in the 6.5x55 are worked so little, they will last for years and years and...

Patrick
:wave:

Yes, been reloading for a while and am aware that my bolt-guns do not require FL sizing like my semi-autos.

Am wondering how I date my Mausers? The 6.5 Swedish is stamped 1899 on the top of the receiver and is S/N 18949. Do those two correspond to being made in 1899? All numbers on the bolt and gun match (with the exception of the safety tab).

My 7x57 BRNO is stamped 9561 on the left side of the receiver and PM05473.4 on the right. Any idea about date of mfg on it?

Thanks.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by gpdavis2

...Am wondering how I date my Mausers? The 6.5 Swedish is stamped 1899 on the top of the receiver and is S/N 18949. Do those two correspond to being made in 1899? All numbers on the bolt and gun match (with the exception of the safety tab)...

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Yes, that matches very well.
During 1899, Carl Gustaf manfactured serial nos. 3324 to 20093. So one can even make a rough interpolation and guess that your rifle was made in the period November/December 1899.

Don't know about the Czech (yet).

Patrick
:wave: