Failure to feed in my Husqvarna M38

Quote:

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Originally Posted by watermoccasin

Is the oval one on this page the one you mean?

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I would personally prefer to use a flat one in this case. The cutting surface is slightly flexible (because of the plastic backing) so that you can actually get the tip of the flat lap to follow a gradual curve. The curve along the receiver cutout rim is so gradual that with the oval one you may go in too deep and actually cut a slight depression. However, the rate of cutting is soooo slow that as long as you frequently wipe off the oil to check progress, you are unlikely to make that mistake. So either will do the job. Your worst enemy is impatience.

I have over the years acquired a number of these tools - flat, round, and oval. The oval one is excellent for sharpening knife blades to an almost razor edge. The flat one is invaluable for touching up burred trigger edges and the like, without cutting through case-hardening.
But remember - these are not metal files - they are only for removing tiny amounts of metal - so always use a light touch and a drop of oil. Fairly thin oil, as you want the microscopic swarf to float off the surface, not clog the cutting surface.

Patrick
:wave:

Thanks for the advice. I've never really needed to lap anything before, and must truthfully admit that I have no experience whatsoever with this sort of work, so the help is much appreciated!

If at all possible, could you post a photo of your extractor claw, though? I totally understand not wanting to post a photo of your action rim – I was tired when I posted that, don't want you disassembling your whole gun on my account! I think I might have some roughness on the face of the extractor claw, though not a burr, and it doesn't seem to impede pick-up of the rims. Do you think it's likely part of my issue, or do you think it's incidental?

Thanks again for all the help so far!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Patrick Chadwick

I would personally prefer to use a flat one in this case. The cutting surface is slightly flexible (because of the plastic backing) so that you can actually get the tip of the flat lap to follow a gradual curve. The curve along the receiver cutout rim is so gradual that with the oval one you may go in too deep and actually cut a slight depression. However, the rate of cutting is soooo slow that as long as you frequently wipe off the oil to check progress, you are unlikely to make that mistake. So either will do the job. Your worst enemy is impatience.

I have over the years acquired a number of these tools - flat, round, and oval. The oval one is excellent for sharpening knife blades to an almost razor edge. The flat one is invaluable for touching up burred trigger edges and the like, without cutting through case-hardening.
But remember - these are not metal files - they are only for removing tiny amounts of metal - so always use a light touch and a drop of oil. Fairly thin oil, as you want the microscopic swarf to float off the surface, not clog the cutting surface.

Patrick
:wave:

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Here is a photo of the follower, magazine and magazine floor plate from my Carl Gustaf.
Attachment 23443

As you can see, the follower sits roughly parallel to the floor plate. If your follower does not sit like this, slide the spring out of the floor plate and follower, and take a look at it.

And here is a photo of the spring alone.
Attachment 23444

Note the symmetrical "M" form If your magazine spring does not look like this, then it should be replaced. A kinked or twisted spring could be a cause of the feeding problem.

Patrick
:wave: