The Carb cleaners we use in this country are definite no-nos, being that they are designed to dissolve carbon. Wood, being made primarily of carbon, really is not the best thing to use them on. Spill the stuff on your pants and it will dissolve them for you, can also give you a nasty skin burn, which is about when it starts to hurt and you wash it off.
We have a number of brake-drum and brake-pad cleaners which just lift the oil and guck out and float it off. The one that people think about is the original, called (nobody knows why) BRAKE-KLEEN. There are a number of various proprietary knock-offs, but they all do the same. All are spray-on products, gas off into the air quite quickly. You are not supposed to use them inside but I haven't been poisoned by them (yet).
I spray the stuff on, wipe it off, repeat until I get no more oil at that time. Stand the wood in a warm corner and let more oil work its way to the surface. It will try to balance out and now there is NONE at the surface, so interior oil attempts to make up this void. Then hit it again. After several treatments, the wood will void no more oil. Then you can start finishing properly. So you hit it one more time with the spray and begin immediately to apply your finish to the now-completely-bone-dry wood.
I went through this entire process with a Type 38 Arisaka which I was given by a dealer in order to "upgrade the quality of his junk rack". It was pretty bad, leaked oil enough to soak thoroughly a couple of complete copies of the Winnipeg (city) newspaper. I hit it with the Brake-Kleen a few times, letting the thing soak-out betwen treatments. When the stock got oily again on the surface, I would hit it with more of the spray and wipe it down again with paper towelling. After about week and a half (and almost two $4 cans of cleaner), I had a stock which accepted rather a decent boiled-oil finish. Not correct, I know, but no more motor oil will ever get at that particular piece of wood.
Hope this helps someone.
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