But you had no "Direction" to match wood by color if possible, just a tradesman's pride to make things aesthetically pleasing?
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There was a page on mixing the 'right' stain in the EMER. But in real life, the stain was just mixed in with the linseed oil bath. The wood went in and came out all the same sort of colour. Left to drip dry and that was it. After that it would stand anything that the weather and the crunchies could throw at it
I find that Fiebings leather dye is very good for staining wood and it comes in many different shades. You must, however, be sure to get the spirit/acrylic based type and NOT the water based version which is also available. Eye protection should be worn when the dye is being used and I would also recommend using gloves unless you wish to have an artificial suntan applied to your hands which will last nearly a week.
I use 3m red scotchbrites, followed by grey, to open the wood and prepare for finish. Then Liberon spirit dyes, carefully applied to the desired colour, followed by white spirit thinned raw linseed oil(it really penetrates the wood and brings a really beautiful depth to any figuring). As soon as the catalyst evaporates (about an hour) I switch to neat raw linseed applications for about two days, then remove excess and buff in a semi Matt finish. Looks great and lasts.
try T bone a mod on here he has a set of new unissued furniture for a No4 Mk1 he may be willing to sell OS, he was going to use it on a L42 build for me but I wouldn't let him cut it up it was simply to nice to waste.;)
Springfield Sporters has this. Stock set
https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...2004752T-1.jpg
I could certainly be mistaken, but isn't "furniture" the bands etc. that go on the stock, and not the wood itself?
The "spirit of the pike" died very hard.