What should be my next WWII era firearm?

Arisaka - $300 with no mum, that is the good condition price.

Folding bayonets for the Carcano usually do go for more than the rifle. If it is SA marked, even more than usual. 7.35 is harder to get than 6.5. It can be purchased but is hit or miss. Graf is the best source that I'm aware of. For a representative Italian rifle, you probably would want a 6.5

Does the mauser have Chinese markings on it? That would be pretty important for me. Top of my list would be a Chinese produced rifle but one otherwise marked would be suitable.

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Originally Posted by Aragorn243

Arisaka - $300 with no mum, that is the good condition price.

Folding bayonets for the Carcano usually do go for more than the rifle. If it is SA marked, even more than usual. 7.35 is harder to get than 6.5. It can be purchased but is hit or miss. Graf is the best source that I'm aware of. For a representative Italian rifle, you probably would want a 6.5

Does the mauser have Chinese markings on it? That would be pretty important for me. Top of my list would be a Chinese produced rifle but one otherwise marked would be suitable.

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I will keep that in mind for the Arisaka, and i will go with the 6.5 Carcano rifles.

I don't think it had any Chinese marking on it. I think there were markings on the side of the receiver showing that it was built for the Chinese Nationalists, but I would have to double check that.

The Chinese definitely did purchase VZ24's so most likely it is a Chinese Mauser. It should have a "P" in front of the serial number and should be dated 1937. These were used by the Nationalists, then the Japanese after they were captured and re-issued and then once again postwar by the Chinese again, probably both Nationalists and communists depending who got their hands on them first. Bore condition is key with this one. I know they are out there but I have never personally came across a Chinese Mauser that wasn't shot out.

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Originally Posted by Aragorn243

The Chinese definitely did purchase VZ24's so most likely it is a Chinese Mauser. It should have a "P" in front of the serial number and should be dated 1937. These were used by the Nationalists, then the Japanese after they were captured and re-issued and then once again postwar by the Chinese again, probably both Nationalists and communists depending who got their hands on them first. Bore condition is key with this one. I know they are out there but I have never personally came across a Chinese Mauser that wasn't shot out.

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I do remember a "P" being on the serial number, but I will have to check on the date as well. If the bore is good, or at least decent, I'm going to guess that the $250 is a good deal. What about if it is shot out? what would the value be?

If the bore is good, I'd say that is a good price unless the exterior is really bad. If the bore is shot out, I wouldn't buy it. If I was going with a shot out rifle, which I did, I would want one that was actually produced by the Chinese and this just so I have an example of one. I have a Hanyang which is actually not a Mauser but a variation of the German Commission rifle, the 88. China produced them under contract and did not use the barrel sleeve. Shot out rifles are usually floating around at $100.

One way to help see if a barrel is too far gone is to put an 8mm bullet in the end of the barrel. If it goes in all the way to the casing, it's shot out. The greater the distance between the barrel end and the casing is better. A 16th inch is almost worn out, an 8th inch has some decent life left etc. Not a perfect test by any means but better than nothing. Just make sure the store owner is OK with it. My hanyang will let a bullet removed from the casing to go all the way through.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Aragorn243

If the bore is good, I'd say that is a good price unless the exterior is really bad. If the bore is shot out, I wouldn't buy it. If I was going with a shot out rifle, which I did, I would want one that was actually produced by the Chinese and this just so I have an example of one. I have a Hanyang which is actually not a Mauser but a variation of the German Commission rifle, the 88. China produced them under contract and did not use the barrel sleeve. Shot out rifles are usually floating around at $100.

One way to help see if a barrel is too far gone is to put an 8mm bullet in the end of the barrel. If it goes in all the way to the casing, it's shot out. The greater the distance between the barrel end and the casing is better. A 16th inch is almost worn out, an 8th inch has some decent life left etc. Not a perfect test by any means but better than nothing. Just make sure the store owner is OK with it. My hanyang will let a bullet removed from the casing to go all the way through.

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From what i remember, the exterior was pretty good. Most of the blueing was still there and the stock looked to be in decent shape. I don't think there were any cracks in it, just a lot of dings, and none that were that deep. One thing that I do remember missing was the the loop, and it's entire bolt, that would hold the sling on the left side of the stock.

EDIT:
This is what was missing on it:
https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...03/sl300-1.jpg

A missing sling swivel you can probably find. Sounds like it's the one near the wrist, might be a little harder to find that one but they are around. Czech VZ24's are bringing good money these days. Going off just a description where you don't remember everything is a bad way to estimate a value but I would think based on what you said that it's worth the $250.00. I paid $300 for my Czech and it didn't have much bluing left, good bore though.

Unfortunately, i agree with you on just a description being a bad way to estimate. Unfortunately, the store I go to doesn't allow for pictures to be taken by any. I'll probably go by there this Friday and see if if i can take a few, but I really doubt it.

I did manage to find the wrist swivel for $20 on ebay, so i have something already lined up if i do decide to get it. It all really depends on the condition of the bore and rifling. If they are good, I will probably get it, otherwise, I will probably pass and instead see if i can get them to lower their price on an Arisaka.

You can always ask if they will do a bit better. Most gun shops are willing to negotiate in my experience, especially with the used stuff. They usually pay a LOT less than what they sell them for. I try to negotiate at Cabelas. Worked a couple of times but not on my last couple.

Alright. I went by that store again, and it turns out that I had the price wrong. It was $299, though i could probably get them to lower the price if i tried.

I did the bore test with an 8mm round and i would to say that around 1/4 inch of hte bullet was still exposed. It had the date 1937 "P" on it behind the serial number, and the rifling looked good as well.

The serial number on the receiver and stock matched, but those on the bolt were different. They were, however, matching and had the "P" behind the serial numbers.

I also managed to take a few pictures of it. They probably aren't the best, but hopefully it is enough to tell me if it is still a good deal or not.