Parkerizing on a No4?

I know they were one big supplier. Colt used their chemicals for sure. I'd guess they weren't the only one though but could be wrong.

My 1950 LB for comparison.

[IMG]https://i.imgur.com/24ixNWpl.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]https://i.imgur.com/tUHHqX3l.jpg[/IMG]

Turn your sling over before the hooks mar up that lovely walnut stock.

That's zinc based Parkerizing. Comes out in shades of grey depending on the metal it goes on. Manganese based Parkerizing comes out black.
Parkerizing is actually an American brand name. It's the same process as black phosphating put on Longbranch No. 4's and C1A1's but uses different chemicals. No grey Parkerized No. 4's on the Rifles I had on my MIU 30 some years ago. All of 'em were black. So were the No. 7's.
There is no such thing as green Parkerizing. The green tinge comes from long term storage in Cosmoline(that's also a brand name).

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Sunray

Comes out in shades of grey depending on the metal it goes on.

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We found that by adding consumable steel to the bath we could make it blacker...like steel wool. It would get eaten and the bath would produce black park on a Canadian weapon...

In my experience, zinc phosphate on No.4 bodies comes out a very light grey because of the metal composition. You can always see the dark spots where the hardening is for the locking lug recesses. If that's a factory original 1950, LB which I think it is, I'd suggest it's just the photo lighting making it look too light. I've always told folks that zinc is light grey and manganese dark grey. It all depends on the composition of the metal but there's really no such thing as black phosphate unless it's treated with a dye or other post phosphate process. I have never seen a truly black color phosphate on a LB No.4. I'd have to consider it more of a dark grey but maybe that's just me. There are other variables like the strength of the bath which gets steadily weaker with use making the finish noticeably lighter.

Jim, that's a common practice, especially where the water being used is distilled and devoid of iron content. Brownells actually sell iron powder for mixing in but a wad of clean steel wool will do the trick. My well water out here is very high in iron content and that's what I've used for 23 years making some really nice phosphate finishes, both zinc and manganese. Sometimes I feel bad painting and baking Suncorite on because it looks so good!