It’s from a local chemical supply house. I don’t know what the recipe is. I mix it at 7% in deionized water. I didn’t use a pre dip.
It sounds like your solution got contaminated with something. It should be almost clear with a light green color.
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It’s from a local chemical supply house. I don’t know what the recipe is. I mix it at 7% in deionized water. I didn’t use a pre dip.
It sounds like your solution got contaminated with something. It should be almost clear with a light green color.
We used to have to strain our solution on occasion because of "Stuff" that would be in it. We used fine steel wool to get a nice black color and it would consume it...for instance.
Did you ever do zinc phosphating? I think that’s what was used on the C1 SMG? The parts have a greenish tint.
We were using the Brownell's Oxinate 84...is that Zinc? It always came out greyish and he wanted black so in went the iron scraps...lots of it got consumed, thus the witches brew.
Oxynate 84 is for bluing.
Right, we were using Parko-Lubrite II...I think. Does that sound closer?
There needs to be some iron in a new mix. I use one steel wool biscuit per US gallon to get it started. You should never need to add more steel wool after that because you are constantly adding iron when you dip your parts.
After a while there usually gets to be too much iron in the mix and the coating doesn’t turn black when you add oil to the dried off parts. Adding more free iron to the mix will make the coating look black, but now the coating will be mostly iron oxide.
A little white sludge is normal. If you are getting a lot of sludge, there’s probably too much acid in the mix. Also, there’s probably very little manganese left in solution.
You don’t need much phosphoric acid in the mixture, only 6 or 7%.