As others noted, pull the stock tight against the shoulder & use a firm "cheek weld" against the comb with your face. This allows you & the rifle to move as one mass and minimizes perceived recoil.
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As others noted, pull the stock tight against the shoulder & use a firm "cheek weld" against the comb with your face. This allows you & the rifle to move as one mass and minimizes perceived recoil.
I shoot a lot of different rifles. You said you were shooting a M38 which has as much kick as an M44. Basicly the same rifle. The M95 Steyr straight pull has a much heavier kick to it, if you use the old Nazi ammo. My #5 Jungle rifle has a lot more kick as does the 7x57 Mauser carbine. There are others. But the worst one I have is a 30.06 Columbian Mauser I have that just hurts to shoot.
As for the kick from a 91/30 I can shoot them all day.
If you are laying down, it can be hard on your body.
Gary
May I suggest that you lay your thumb on the right side of the stock {for a right handed shooter,} instead of laying your thumb across the stock behind the Mosin's bolt. This method helps in eliminating a flinch. Shooting offhand.... by raising your strong hand elbow almost parallel with the ground creates a better shoulder pocket. I use a slip-on cheek pad from Brownells to get a better cheek weld for my original M91-30 sniper rifle. This cheek pad also helps negate the effects of recoil.Quote:
Originally Posted by MeatMarket
I shoot my Mosin's with a firm grip. You can buy a rubber slip-on recoil butt pad at Walmart---- they have three sizes --- the one I bought is a tad to big. I just buy a Bag of Rags from Auto Zone, and stuff the rags under my lightweight shirts in warm weather; to negate the effects of recoil.
In my experience that is the best way to learn a lesson.Quote:
Originally Posted by Aragorn243
My right shoulder is a mess also. Clavical was fractured in '68 falling from ladder when an RPG hit the tower I was climbing and broken in '70 when doing a 4th gear wheelie past some flashing sweet thing on the main straight at 60 MPH. I haven't been shooting like I used to for over a year as both my shooting friends passed on but if you hold tight and ware layers of clothing and toughen up a bit you should be OK. Or just sell it to me.Quote:
Originally Posted by labrat1469
https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...899b11af-1.jpg
This is somewhat OT but for those who find the recoil of a Mosin Nagant objective try to imagine running 100 or so high brass shells through this beast in about 10-15 minutes during an ambush on some pesty doves that were roosting in the trees around the yard and dumping all over everything in sight. I paid for it the next couple days but have'nt had to get up at 4:00 am to wash the dove s#@t of the wife's car before she goes to work since.
vintage hunter.
Ditto that. My Remington No 11 has not been dove hunting for some time for the same reason.
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Nice Husky!
More OT. Model 11? Hooked, I just bought a 1920 model 11 and I love it! All original and serial numbers all match. It still sports the suicide safety :)
‘Any suggestions as to good recoil "pads" out there?’
I agree with the general consensus here that with any major battle rifle caliber, you must deal with some recoil. Most such rifles can be fired by firmly grasping the rifle and pulling it into the shoulder (a but more inboard from your burse). I also use the recoil pad sold at most sites as the MN recoil pad for about $12-$15 each (removing the steel recoil plate – I am not breaking heads with the steel so the pad feel good) and the Limbsaver (small) Slip-On Recoil Pad. The latter is a better pad. Just remember to put you body behind the rifle and hold it firmly (pad or no pad) and you can ride the beast anywhere you wish. I love Garands but the MN is a great rifle.