Indeed, while cleaning around the heavily gunked rear sight, I found that a relatively mild cleaner (Hoppes Elite) slightly bleached the Parkerizing. I've used the Elite cleaner on dozens of guns, and I've never seen that happen before. Thanks!
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Many owners of old guns will not clean them at all because they don't even want to lose 'closet dust'. I'm not in that camp yet, but I sure do remember cleaning a carbine barrel one day that had about 50% Park, kind of spotty, and my shock when I saw how bad it looked after blasting it with brake cleaner. In some cases, 'squeaky clean' is not the best idea. :(
So is brake cleaner as bad as gun scrubber? I have a bolt I want to clean up and I'm trying decide if I want to break it down, or just give it a rinse. Not a carbine bolt though. A .22 Win 67.
They all contain mixtures of Tetrachloroethylene , perchloroethylene , and dichloromethane . Prety much the same stuff , although brands will vary on the mix and strength . Difference is brake cleaner doesn't say "gun" on it , so it's much cheeper.
Chris
Yeah, but should I not use it on an old bolt from a winny 67? I should probably just tear it apart. I have a good video for it. Sorry for the off topic. I was wanting to be lazy and take the easy way out.
I have used brake cleaner on my guns for 30-40 years now . Never a problem . However , my guns are "Old School " wood and steel. No plastics on them and I don't let it get on the wood . Mostly use it in the bores prior to the Outer's foul-outs and to remove solvents prior to oiling . Good on assembled trigger groups and bolts , too. I use cheep "Part's Master " brand mostly as it's weaker . I save the more expensive " Berryman 's " for real cruddy multi thousand round belt fed cleanings. Does not seem to harm park or blued finishes themselves , but does remove cosmoline quite well.
Chris
Great. That helps me a ton!!!
I have used brake cleaner on really fouled M1 Carbine and AR-15 bolts/carriers. If you soak it and use an empty case with its rim hooked under the extractor, you can work the ejector to help free it up. Dis-assembly, however, is the best bet.