Re-barrel

I have the Steven Mathews gauge for 1903 (there was an entity called Stone Axe engineering he was part of or ran but no longer, its purely Steve only) .

Discussing with him on how it applies to the 1917 and he says the MW is spot on (within the gauge accuracy limitation) and the TE is pretty close but not calibrated to a 1917. He is not in the greatest health and does runs of these as he can.

Its a nicely done setup in as it combines the MW and TE in one gauge (also M1 and M14 versions available)

I do not have any interest in Steves work other than appreciate for a low cost tool that does what I needed so I am not in any way benefiting from passing this information on.

Cost is $54 I believe and that include shipping.

Its not a military precision gauge, maybe more precise than some of the suggestions here but Steve specifically lists it as a hobbiest gauge so its an indicator not absolute spot on definitive.

Accuracy is .005 per his statement and accuracy ability in making these.

If you are into these I think its a worth while investment, I carry mine to all gun shows and any LGS I am at as it provides a pretty quick assessment of what I am looking at and for.

Its also resolved some internet purchase questions, one in particular was a 1917 barrel that the TE was really bad but the MW was good (blanks probably shot through it as that is a signature of that type)

Steves email is:

fatmatthews2@hotmail.com

His mailing address is: Steven Mathews - P.O. Box 125 - Scott, Ohio 45886

Thank you all for the help! I'm going to play with the bullet methods first but I definitely need to look for some gauges because these old guns are so much fun that I'll probably find others I can't pass on.

Carl

Stick with flat-based bullets, preferably proper, flat-based "military" (FMJ) types. That is what it was designed to shoot. Slinky boat-tails just reduce the bearing surface and encourage gas-bleed in a "pre-loved" barrel.

Keep an eye out for batches of "pulled" (or NEW) 150gn ex-mil projectiles.

I certainly wouldnt be concerned, my Eddystone M1917 throws the bullets at the target sideways. So seeing they are hitting the target right way is definatley an advantage. Mine has beatiful wood, original barrel all markings are "E", I would give my left arm if it would group like this.

Try high quality (Speer, Nosler) 150gr. flat base hunting bullets. They will run just fine for you.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by H.e.s.h

my Eddystone M1917 throws the bullets at the target sideways

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Steve may have it right...if your bullets are long they will have a hard time stabilizing. A shorter bullet may still work.

Already tried that, even tried some .311 in various weights. No the barrel is un serviceable, there is rifling there but you can drop a .308 in at the muzzle and without much effort it will freefall down the tube!!

Yup, that's hammered.

A real pity as its the original tube, the overall condition of the rifle is excellent, so looking for a new barrel, may have to settle for a Criterion?

I'm not so sure settle is the right word...then you'll have an excellent shooter. As is, it's a frustration.