Typical parts after a normal rebuild. Quality hardware trigger housing, and the bolt is Inland. I can't see the rest for markings.
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Typical parts after a normal rebuild. Quality hardware trigger housing, and the bolt is Inland. I can't see the rest for markings.
The Hammer has an R, I assume its Rock-ola. I didnt tear down the trigger assembly but will later. The Slide has weird markings on the inside... It looks like a backwards "B", followed by lower case "e"and uppercase "V" but that could just be my eyes. Ill probably try to id it from the US Carbine page later. The Bolt says AI so thats INland I guess, I didnt take it apart yet to nor did I idea which "Type" it is. Lastly theres a "2' on the bottom of the receiver, kinda near the side spring hole. Havent' found any info on that yet.
Will report back when I do a further break down .
As always, thanks for the info.
Pictures please!
They're on page one showing a KR hammer and AOB slide.
Hey ten! You can't count! Page 3 not 1! *LOL* That backwards B, e and V are an upside down AOB! *LOL* That is what I was scratching my head about! DUH! OOPS! I think my brain just rolled out my ear!
I can't count.
I'd come to the same conclusion on the markings in the recent pictures, but forgot they were on page 3. :banghead: - Bob
Probably not, virtually all the Carbines have been through overhaul and ended up as a parts mix anyway from what I have seen so far.
Assuming it's mechanically sound, you could start with a relatively easy to find cheap later beech Potbelly stock set.
Later adjustable backsight and front sight parts, plus bayonet front band, more expensive, but still widely available.
I would be tempted to just fill the drilled hole and just touch in....
That would give you a stock carbine, depends how deep your pockets are really.
I don't know if Rockola carbines left the factory with only Rockola parts. Many manufacturers used parts from other manufacturers. You can go to USCARBINECALM1.com and use their charts to identify what parts should be on you rifle based upon its serial number and then you can compare them to what you actually have. I was able to do that with my Underwood and confirm all the parts were correct for it. That would help you to get it as close as possible to original. Hope that helps!