Lithgow No1 Mk3 sticky extraction.

Operating a Lee Enfield bolt was ALWAYS supposed to be via the users "THUMB AND FORE-FINGER", never the palm or whatever other bits were available. This is NOT a Mauser.

The "well-trained" operators would crank the bolt with thumb and fore-finger and operate the trigger with the index finger. May not be ideal for "bullseye" shooting, but you can put ten round down-range, with a reasonable amount of "field" accuracy, in a VERY short time.

Furthermore, the system, when it left the factory / Base Workshop, etc, had two special features regarding locking and unlocking.

The locking surfaces are cut at a helix angle of one turn in 0.10 inches. This meant that during final lock-up, there is a camming action applied to the cartridge as it enters the chamber.

On UNLOCKING, the appropriate camming surfaces on the body and bolt are cut at a helix angle of one turn in ONE inch.

Thus, there is a good bit of primary extraction leverage applied to the fired case as the bolt handle is lifted and the bolt body rotated.

Thus, with a shorter bolt-handle "lift" and, because of the rear locking system. the Lee-Enfield can be cycled a LOT faster than a Mauser or Nagant, etc.

Furthermore, the location of the bolt handle at "lockup" is almost perfect for the firing hand to come straight up from the trigger, grasp the bolt, (with thumb and forefinger), and cycle the (short) action.

If the rifle was FTR'd in the '50's, it may be partly stiff through lack of use.
I have one like that, and the bolt needed some work to get it loosened up.

Post edited, as I replied to thread at the bottom of page 1! (Now redundant)

Best,
R.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Bruce_in_Oz

Operating a Lee Enfield bolt was ALWAYS supposed to be via the users "THUMB AND FORE-FINGER", never the palm or whatever other bits were available. This is NOT a Mauser.

The "well-trained" operators would crank the bolt with thumb and fore-finger and operate the trigger with the index finger. May not be ideal for "bullseye" shooting, but you can put ten round down-range, with a reasonable amount of "field" accuracy, in a VERY short time.

Furthermore, the system, when it left the factory / Base Workshop, etc, had two special features regarding locking and unlocking.

The locking surfaces are cut at a helix angle of one turn in 0.10 inches. This meant that during final lock-up, there is a camming action applied to the cartridge as it enters the chamber.

On UNLOCKING, the appropriate camming surfaces on the body and bolt are cut at a helix angle of one turn in ONE inch.

Thus, there is a good bit of primary extraction leverage applied to the fired case as the bolt handle is lifted and the bolt body rotated.

Thus, with a shorter bolt-handle "lift" and, because of the rear locking system. the Lee-Enfield can be cycled a LOT faster than a Mauser or Nagant, etc.

Furthermore, the location of the bolt handle at "lockup" is almost perfect for the firing hand to come straight up from the trigger, grasp the bolt, (with thumb and forefinger), and cycle the (short) action.

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I was never saying using your palm, when operating the bolt with your thumb & fore-finger your hand is located below the the bolt so you have a natural tendency to lift the bolt body up & to the left, what i'm saying by placing your hand over the top to stop the up & left push.

Didn't mean to imply you were advocating "poor" procedure, just going back to my initial training on the old girls.

The business of "bolt handle lift" at the point of ignition has always intrigued me.

It may be related to several factors:

The "surface grade (roughness) of the end faces of the striker spring. These ends are supposed to be "closed and ground". If there is "roughness", they will bind to the striker collar and to the interior of the bolt body and "wind-up" a little as the action is closed.

"Sloppy" radial fit of bolt body to receiver body. This allows the bolt body to move in ways the designers never intended. The helical locking surfaced simply act as "ramps" for such errant movement.

The "controversial" one is bolt handle contact with the RHS of the butt socket / ferrule. This may also act in conjunction with "causes" one and two. I have seen several samples where, if the bolt is closed and the handle lifted a few thou CLEAR of contact, the bolt handle does NOT "flick" up. The "cheap and cheerful" solution was to carefully grind away a suitable amount of material from the underside of the handle to obtain a minimum clearance.

Uneven or "one-sided" lug contact would not help, either.

Excessive "fore and aft" movement is primarily caused by poor, (excessive), headspace. This in turn has a number of causes. Quick test: compare the "handle jump" differences between dry-firing the action with and without a "good" dummy round present.

Note also that, when a "live' round is fired, the striker is driven back a very short distance, but quite "smartly" as the propellant charge gets up to full pressure and hammers back on the indented primer, which, in turn, pushes back on the tip of the striker.

Trying to resolve multiple variables simultaneously is a mathematical and, by extension, engineering nightmare.

Ok guys, Ive been a little busy these last couple weeks but was able to send my lithgow out to Brian. First off, let me state, He is a great guy, straight talking and very honest, if you need any work on your enfields i could not recommend him higher. Anyway, he took a look at my rifle and it has official been cleared. He has informed me that it is in perfect Aussie condition. Thank you all so much for all the info that you guys have given me over the last few weeks regarding the rifle. I can't show my appreciation enough.

Glad it all worked out for you but I have to ask Brian what is "perfect Aussie Condition" ? Peter L did they train you in that condition when you were in the land of Vegemite and 'roos......:confused:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by lcgivz12

in perfect Aussie condition

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There you go, no cracks or deletions...

He meant to say that except for a long term lack of TLC, it's exactly as it left R/MA 12/46 at Lithgow. It''s a superb example of a 1940 rifle rebuilt post war. The 1945 date barrel is perfect and gauges tight as a tick.

I fired it with Portuguese FNM 1972 Mk.7z after a good servicing and it fed and functioned flawlessly. The tight chamber problem is ammo related and has nothing to do with the rifle.

Thanks Brian the thread did have some interesting information in it you must agree it is better to be safe than sorry as no one knows the past lives/life these old war horses have had.

Everyone's input is greatly appreciated. I'm always concerned about the condition of the drawers in SMLE forends, especially coachwood and Queensland maple when somewhat dark and oil soaked. This rifle had little to no use since rebuild and is exceptional. It just needed a good inspection and servicing. Keep the screws tight, barrel clean, shoot and enjoy. Now all he needs is some decent ammo.