I know its not a Mk3 tool but how many of these have survived ?
It did cost a 'few' pennies but it goes with my 4T with a Mk1 scope.
https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo.../No4T012-1.jpg
https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo.../No4T013-1.jpg
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I know its not a Mk3 tool but how many of these have survived ?
It did cost a 'few' pennies but it goes with my 4T with a Mk1 scope.
https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo.../No4T012-1.jpg
https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo.../No4T013-1.jpg
THere were no official tools that the soldier/sniper could use or was permitted to use on the Mk3/L1A1. The Armourers that were Instrument Qualified used the tools that were issued and such a tool wasn't issued......... The tool that WAS issued was a Spanner, pegged, adjustable, V6-WZ 0058 which sort of did the job - if you were desperate! Most, like me, made their own tools according to their needs. I've still got most of mine that have been used for some 40 years now. But I never saw a Mk3/L1A1 tool. Indeed, an Instrument technician wouldn't need to hold the lead screw while he locked the locking nut down because.............. anyway. Once he'd set it up, they went onto the test range where the instrument techs and Armourers would have a play and then the sniper made the final adjustment using the nose of a round.
In short, nope......, I never saw or had need to use a Mk3/L1A1 adjusting tool. But I could be wrong
Are the scopes no longer listed?
But what does it do? And how?Quote:
Originally Posted by Alan de Enfield
The outer two 'claws' grip the outside of the turret (to stop it turning) whilst the peg on the inner one sits in the adjuster and turns it whilst the outside is heldQuote:
Originally Posted by Beerhunter
Er......... I don't think it turns anything Alan! The outer claws grip the actual turret while the inner one (fixed) is slotted to hold the actual lead screw in place. There is another tool, the key, that's part of the set. Then when the turret is gripped and the lead screw is held in place, the key locks it all up. It was a zillion times better than the tool in the box, but dear o' deary me, it was still marginally better than hopeless. Armourers were encouraged to make the tool and many did during their basic trade training (see drawings in the telescope book....., cheap and a good read too!). But as I explained, most Armourers chose to ignore these monstrosities and, like me, made their own from ideas taken from experienced Armourers that they met along the way
i'm not a professional machinist by a long shot but i see no reason why anyone with even basic knowledge of the trade can't make a useable adjusting tool themselves. can't be that difficult. i'm new here so forgive me for getting off the subject and back tracking but this may help others as well. i put my REPRO no.4t together in sept. 09, before Peter posted his how - to article. there are a couple of steps that i did different from the ones in the article. namely centering the scope and the soldering bit. so,Peter, my question is now that i have my sweaty little paws on a REPRO no.32, is it too late to go back and correct the parts i got wrong?
just for the record i did center the scope, just used a different method.
It's difficult to answer, not knowing which parts you got wrong! But repositioning the pads would be one area where it'd be virtually impossible to correct it.
In respect of centreing the scope........., centreing it with what? The bore of the rifle (collimation) or centreing the graticle with the optical axis of the bore? Sure, there's more than one way to skin a cat. But what I really wanted to do was ensure that anyone who went into the project, came out with something that was a passable repro and at least everything aligned optically as it should have. I had a go with one where the point of the grat was so far up in the top left side of the screen, the grat was curved and gave me cross eyes!
Believe me, in passing I've seen some home made howlers (and not even home made, but dealer/enthusiastic amateur monstrosities too.....) where to get the telescoped rifle zeroedf, the point of the grat was anywhere but in the centre of the image screen - which is where it must be!
what i mean by ''centering the scope'' is that i placed the reticule at the center of its adjustment travel. windage&elevation. after rereading your article i realized i did'nt do anything wrong i just left out a step. the soldering part. when i put this rifle together i used a weaver k-4 scope because of the lack of a no.32. also when i positioned the rear pad i did it at 100yds instead of 250. my end results must be at least cloce to yours on the basis that at the range it took only 2 minutes right and 3 minutes down to get it shooting perfect center. i am soon to be in the process of replacing the weaver with a repro no.32. hope everything goes ok. what i am wanting to know is can i still solder the pads the way you say to or is it too late?
Yep, just take them off, clean down, tin both surfaces, heat to melting point and screw down. I used to let the solder run into the screw threads too so that it effectively glued them in place. Make sure that the screws are red hot so that when they're tight they contract down.