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Ed,
I don't quite understand how the handle is loose on your screwdriver as there should be no leverage applied to it. The wrench should be applied directly to the shank of the screwdriver blade. My big NAPA screwdriver along with an adjustable wrench has never failed me.
Brian
In an ideal world, yes. This is an newer screwdriver, with a square handle and a round shank, so a wrench fits nicely on the handle, but not on the smooth round shank. I rooted around for a couple of hours last night and found my old screwdriver, which has the square shank and that should work. Not sure it's worth the effort now of trying to take the buttstock off, but at least I have a functioning "Lee-Enfield butt" screwdriver again. I had been quite pleased with myself a couple years back when I found this new really long shank screwdriver with a thick blade at a local hardware store, and I've used it a few times to tighten buttstocks, but in the end, my old weighs-a-ton screwdriver with the clunky shank and the wooden handle is still the best. NAPA--not a bad idea. A good heavy duty autobody type thing.
Ed
At least the big blue handled NAPA screwdrivers aren't made in China! Good luck with your project.
Brian
I'm sure my face would have been worth a photo when I realized that it wasn't the bolt in the butt which had gone "click" and was turning freely, but the shaft of the screwdriver instead......
Ed
A very interesting possible addition to my collection has come up, so this rifle is going to be going up for sale, should anyone be interested.
Ed
I have a situation where the butt has swelled up so tight around the bolt that the bolt can not be turned. The bolt is lose in the butt socket. The bolt is locked up so tight that using a 3/8" drive screw driver head on a 10" extension with a breaker bar I sheared off halve the bolt head after first shearing the tip off another screw driver head. I can only guess this is the reason that the early stock bolts were waisted. The only way I see of resolving this problem is to cut the stock off at the wrist. breaks my heart, it's a beautiful original butt stock with nice markings.
I assume you tried giving it a long soak in penetrant.
You can try to drill the head off the bolt, long tunsten tip drills are readily available, any damage to timber will be internal.
Or you can drill through from the forewood side, collapse the remaining thread in and remove the stock, you will be able to drive the bolt out of the timber once removed.
I see BA 10317 on this chest. My Transit Chest that held a Long Branch has BA 8665 stenciled on it from 1962.
Is this a manufacturer's code?
BA8665 is a shortened version of B1/BA-8665 where B1 is the Ordnance category of the part. So B1 is bolt action rifle. BA is the old Ordnance sub category, in this case, that the whole item is an assembly of sorts and 8665 is the actual Ordnance part number. This old fashioned method was changed in the late 40's to the NEW MoS format and would read something lige B1/CR 1234-A
Next question...............
But back to the original question. In all my years as an Armourer, through conditions and environments that you couldn't even dream up in your worst nightmare, I have to say that I have never experienced a No1, 4 or rusted and corroded No5 stock bolt that ever defeated the proper tools for the job! What say you Frostie - another armourer of a pre-me era
Check both ends of the bottom boards of the No.15 chest .... Normally around the middle of the end. There will/should be markings ....and if Canadian you will NORMALLY find the C broad arrow, along with a makers code such as HCF, MSD, AWP etc. Please let me know if you find any markings as I'm still trying to put together the companies in Canada that made No.15 "coffins". Canadian only at this point in time.
I'd appreciate pictures so please PM me and we will work out something on getting the photo's to me.