1944 Remington 1903A3 Trigger Problem

Hi guys,

I am attempting to improve the trigger pull on my 1903A3 and I am stumped as to what to do next.

This is what I have done: I replaced the sear spring and I carefully stoned the sear and the trigger contacts smooth. I polished the pins and the contact points on the receiver. I cleaned and lightly coated the parts with BreakFree before re-assembly.

The good: The second stage has a nice clean break now.

The bad: The first stage still has a heavy, halting, and mushy pull to the second stage. :banghead:

I know what the trigger is suppose to feel like because my 1903 Springfield has a light and even pulling first stage that stops at the second and then breaks cleanly and crisply @ 3 3/4 pounds.

Does anyone have any suggestions as to what I might do next?

Thank you in advance for your help.

Steve

Did you stone - Very Lightly - both the humps on the sear? Did you stone the sear seat in the reciever & that part of the firing pin that mates with the sear? Finally, try the old sear spring & stone the ends & make sure there are no rough spots on the outside.

Try some good moly or graphite grease applied to all the contact surfaces: sear, cocking piece, trigger humps, receiver.

If your polishing doesn't look like a mirror, you may have more work to do. Finish with a true Arkansas stone or 600 grit on a flat needle file.

Jim

Let me add to what I said before - No Dremel! A hard Arkansas or India stone only!

Thanks guys.

I did polish the trigger humps and the sear with an india stone. I will check and polish the other areas you mentioned, as well as the spring ends. I will also get some graphite grease and try that.

Jim Tarleton mentioned on another thread that he has two 1903 Marine rifles that have a "first stage that is almost unnoticeable, with a short second stage, and a trigger pull of 3 lbs to 31/2 lbs." That pretty much describes the trigger pull of my 1903 and that's what I would like to achieve with my 1903A3.

I'll try your suggestions and I will let you know how it goes.

Steve

a lighter rebound spring will do more then a day of stone work...

the use of automobile rubbing compound to smooth out the interfacing surfaces will be a more user-friendly approach to minimize too much surface wear. Just an idea from someone who know less than nothing compared to those in the business.:bow:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by chuckindenver

a lighter rebound spring will do more then a day of stone work...

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Chuck,

I bought my new sear spring from Numrich. Where can I buy a lighter one?

Steve

trim one coil out of the new one that you got from gunjunk corp.
i avoid parts from that supplier unless i have no other option.
the parts you get may be rusty, over seas made, or just the wrong part.
they have people that dont have a clue about firearms taking orders.
i buy spring stock from Wolff springs, and trim to match based on the rate.
that way i can play with the rate, and feel.
you can get a good supply from them for about what you paid for the shipping with GP.