Hot Bluing

Hi, I've been restoring some military rifles and while I know it's different from parkerizing can anyone give me a how to on hot bluing without poisoning myself and rusting up every ferrous item in my workshop. The last couple have gone to gunsmiths who have done an excellent job, but I'd like to do the lot myself if possible.
I don't mind spending the money on excellent equipment, as I'm sure this habit is one I'll have for a while.
Cheers

its a big mess with a large learning curv..
i dont receommend anyone thats doesnt know how it works do it at home.
not only is it very dangerous, it can be a heath hazard as well.
the salts run at almost 300 once they splash you, its too late, your burnt,
and youll never forget a small splash of hot sodium hydroxide in the corner of your eyes under you safety glasses.
somethings are better sent to someone that does it for a living.

If ya gotta do it, build an outbuilding reserved just for the task! Doesn't have to be fancy, but its saves you from tons of dramas. (keep a phone w/ you for emegencies, though!)

I would suggest you find a "Black Oxider" in your area. You must disassemble and prep all the parts. All the Oxider will do is clean and dip your parts. The one I use will Oxide 10 guns for around $100. (One gun is $30.)
Good Luck.

Not all black oxide finishes will be suitable for firearms use! Some rub off fairly easily. Check before you invest your weapons.

most commercial metal finishers wont work on firearms, and have at least a 100.00 min.
avoid them..they are ment for things other then guns.
find a gunsmith that will treat you right..
or contact me, ill be happy to shoot you some rates.

Hi,

I'm learning more about bluing myself so I need to clarify what you want to do. Are you looking to start tank blueing, acid bluing, quick bluing or salt bluing??

We send acid bluing out and send tank bluing out too (although the shop used to do it until the accountant complained about the smells)

We do salt bluing (nitre salt) and it isn't difficult although splashing yourself with 300 degree salts is bad for your nerves. This bluing generally makes a more cobalt blue color (based on slat temperature). We also use a quick blue process. Also called Belgium bluing. This is an acid blue process, but doesn't leave the part to rust over night. We buy the Belgium blue liquid from Brownells. You boil water and put the part in for a minute or two. Take it out and swab on the compound. Back into the water for a bit, then out and fine brush the surface. Then repeat until you get the color you want. This gives a darker blue then the nitre blue. But it doesn't wear as well as the tank blue and certainly not as well as the slow acid blue.

So which blueing process are you considering?

I want to do tank bluing.

Enfields weren't hot blued, BTW. Closest to original is "rust" bluing, which is SLOW, but requires much less equipment and is generally easier to set up. Mostly you need time and lots of elbow grease! The chemicals are applied either cold or no more than 100 degrees C. Build a "sweat box" and stock up on brushed ans steel wool. Since it takes multiple applications before done, its easier to redo if blotchy or some such. The greatest danger is forgetting to check the rusting progress- might end up w/ pitting if left for several extra days...

Hot chemical blues are primarily a post WWII development to save time. So the "slow" method actually looks more correct, and may be easier overall, if you don't intend on doing bunches of weapons at a time. Safer, too!

I'm not just thinking about enfields.