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If I use a 50-50 mix of linseed oil and turpentine on my Garand stock, which to use, boiled or raw and what is the difference,if any,to be expected on the results? I only use linseed oil but will try the mix on one of my new CMP stocks. I hope it darkens it up in time, but putting the oil on is my basic up keep and maintenance.
All I know is that RLO takes forever and then some, to dry.
I've tried both, and can't really tell the difference. Some say RLO takes longer to dry. The Army used to specify RLO, or pure Tung Oil. I use BLO and odorless paint thinner, 50-50. I put this mix on a couple new CMP stock sets. Actually I use the 1/3 mix which includes beeswax. Be sure to allow the wood time to let the finish dry completely, before the next coat. It seems to take the wood 6 months or so to begin to oxidize, at least that's been my observation. Then they began to show the nice, reddish hue USGI stocks are known for.
Charlie
Thanks Charlie ,I've heard of the bees wax but where would I get some? I treated my new CMP stocks with the 50-50 blo & turpintine and so far everything looks good. I used blo only before,but the 50-50 is not as thick and dries quicker. Plus my wife complained about the smell so it's another HOME RUN(just kidding). Are you using the thinner in place of the turpentine I used to thin the oil, or did I get the wrong mix?
BLO is a fine finish and stands up to handling very well. You can break the mixture into thirds and add beeswax and get a fine, ultra-flat finish. It goes on like shoe polish and finishes with a coarse cloth like burlap or linen. I am not particularly fond of this finish and it is certainly not traditional as this finish came (reportedly) from a 1960s concoction among competition shooters.
Pure tung (not the stuff that is called "Tung Oil Finish" which is only varnish with as little as 5% tung oil) is available from several sources and dries overnight and usually takes about two to three coats to make a smooth finish with a low gloss. Vastly superior to most others and I like the ease of application compared to others. It is the finish which came on Garands in the 1950s from arsenals and manufacturers.
RLO is good but very slow to dry. It is traditional, but not necessarily the best material for a finish, IMHO. I have finished over 100 stocks with tung and BLO, but rarely, if ever, RLO. Just personal preference, I suppose.
There are various finishes including Arrow brand which is sanded into the wood and makes a very durable finish. Looks like a low-sheen BLO finish.
Tru-Oil is available from everyone in the firearms business, even Wal-Mart. Easy to apply, dries between coats in 12-24 hours and steel wools between coats to a sheen that could pass for a real French oil finish. Well worth the trouble and damned near indestructible. I have a Mosin that was finished with Tru-Oil in the late 1960s and it still looks good and is easy to repair when scratched.
Attachment 18118Attachment 18119
I restocked the Ruger single shot rifle in 1976 with a Tru-Oil finish
The M1 stock was finished with BLO in the 60's
I like the BLO myself
Yes, I use the unscented type thinner in place of turpentine. I use the 50-50 mix and 0000 grade steel wool to clean my stocks, and the beeswax mix as a finish coat.Quote:
Originally Posted by DaveN
I never used the mix with beeswax, but talked to some that did, and according to them you end up with something closer to shoe polish. It might be OK for a final coat, but I don't see using it for a finish.
The turpentine smell goes away as the BLO/Turpentine mix starts to dry, and the drying time is very short. Put on in very thin coats, it should be dry and ready for another coat in 24 hours.
As mentioned, the 50/50 mix also acts as a good stock cleaner where you don't want to cut the original color from the stock.
Thanks to all. I now know there are many ways to finish and the all seem to do the job of protecting the rifle. The difference seems to be what you want it to look like when it's done. My thought is original ways for my WWII's ,my 50's can get what was used in the 50's and my competition rifles ( new CMP stocks) get the modern stuff.
RCS, I have a stock( new CMP) that I stripped the oil and used Formby's tung oil finish and it cam out like your Garand tiger stripes and all. I had never seen one like that and read some where that the stripes should go the length of the stock. then I was watching COMBAT and the episode with the french mountainman (who in return for his help wanted a Garand) was presented a Garand with those stripes just like yours,and mine. I also stripped and stained a new Cmp and used the tung oil finish and it came out like a piece of furniture. I'll post some pics later.
I've used lots of BLO and a little RLO. I love the smell of BLO, but raw linseed has a somewhat nauseating smell for the first couple of days, and as it dries a bit, it smells just like BLO. For the first couple of coats of BLO on bare wood, I cut it with low oder mineral spirits/paint thinner, to get it to really soak into the wood. You can lay it on reall heavy, and keep it wet, and later in the day, wipe off the excess. Too much linseed will build up a thick, gummy finish, and you don't want that.
With the longer drying time of the raw linseed vs. the boiled, and the smell of the raw, I don't really use it much anymore. But the end results between the two are about the same.
I've read some guys say the linseed is not a good moisture barrier. And I've had M1 rifles from my American Legion post that got rained on during a parade, and the stock had to dry for 3 days before I could get some of the actions out of the stock. Well, the area that swelled up on these stocks is the inside of the stock. So on the inside, inletted areas of my wood stocks, I use a more waterproof type finish, like marine type polyurethane or Tru-oil, etc.
I never would use any kind of a wax on my military gun stocks.