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Hello Everyone, I'm new to this site and I have some questions regarding my Garand. I was given an M1 Garand, alleged Tanker model. The op rod was broken and then allegedly repaired by a gunsmith, however it never worked, so I replaced the op rod with one from Fulton Armory, along ,with alot of other parts. Since reassembling and lubricating, the rifle will not eject the casing, anyone have any suggestions? Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated, thanks in advance....Clint:runaway:
Unfortunately many Tankers have functioning issues. It takes a very good smith to convert a Garand to a Tanker. I have one that works very well and they are very fun to shoot. The largest issue is that the op rod has to be bent in the exactly correct place and angle in order to work.
Here are some pics of mine.
Attachment 47313Attachment 47314
Mine looks like yours with the exception, mine does not have the flash hide, however everything else looks the same.
You need to determine and say exactly what it's doing or not doing.
Is it extracting but not ejecting ? If it is extracting , is the case getting hung up ? Is the bolt squeeky clean and reassembled properly ? Extractor and ejector moving freely ? Bolt not short stroking ? Thinking too long op rod spring . Could be not enough gas , too . Worn piston or cylinder , converted bbl with wrong sized port , port not aligned with cylinder window , gas cylinder mounting mis-machined . You've done a tilt test , right ? Checked for binding / rubbing ? Reassembled completely without op rod spring to check for binding caused by the latched triggerguard pressure ? ( just had one of these , had to remove wood on the stock under op-rod handle ) .
Chris
I'm sorry for the confusion. I did disassemble the rifle, I did a tilt test, nothing seems to be binding, everything moving freely. I checked the gas port, free of any debris. I checked op rod without op rod spring, no binding there, moved freely. Last time I fired the rifle, the op rod only moved approximately an inch, and stopped, I thought maybe it was a bent case or something, so I completely checked the rest of my ammo, all seemed good, no dings or dents, so I reloaded again, and again the op rod only moved approximately an inch and stopped, the empty case did not come out. Thanks for all of your imput and assistance......Clint:runaway:
Try this:
Remove the "gas cylinder lock screw" a.k.a. plug.
Use a piece of dowel rod, brass rod, or something that cannot possibly make a mark in the cylinder and PUSH the rod back by hand.***
If it travels noticeably further than the inch previously quoted, then the explanation must surely be that the gas is just not providing enough push!
***I just tried this on my own Garand. If you clamp the dowel rod in a bench vice (with enough sticking out, of course!) you can easily push the rifle onto the dowel rod and thus push the op rod so far back that it cocks the action.
IF YOU CAN DO THIS THE EXPLANATION IS INSUFFICIENT GAS !
I.e. rod OR cylinder OR both have so much wear that there is excessive gas leakage
AND/OR the gas port is partially obstructed
AND/OR the gas is leaking past the valve in the lock screw - because of dirt in the valve seating, for instance.
As you seem to have already checked the rest - check this !!!
Maybe your lock screw looks like this:
Attachment 47317
Bought online - pic did not show hole - I got my money back!
Remember , the bbl was / is cut down . The original gas port is gone . Be sure the port hole is the proper diam.
The .308 ports are bigger than 30-06 ports , but I don't have the specs on tanker ports . Being closer to the chamber , they should be smaller than normal , but your's may be too small .
Chris
What ammo are you using? Definitely sounds like insufficient gas...
The gas port is small, the small end of a round wooden toothpick fits. Just me, but I'm thinking the gas cylinder needs replaced, I've practically replaced everything else. Oh, the is no hole on the plug, just fyi!