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I'm going to look at a MAS 1873 revolver tomorrow. Anything in particular I should look for? I figured I'd check to see if the cylinder works the way it's supposed to along with the single and double action. Don't really know what else to check. Probably never find ammo for it anyway so not likely it will be fired. Condition is well worn but functional as far as the owner can tell. Cylinder chambers appear smooth with no pitting. Bore has strong rifling but is dark. Grips are worn smooth.
This link and some help from Google Translate. armement reglementaire francais les armes de poing
You can make the cases from 44-40.
Lee do dies to reload. 11mm lead bullets are about for them.
I bought the last 2 molds that Lee made, about 7yrs ago. I think they could make you one to order.
Balleurope do make bullets RN453 179g
MY 1873 is not nice to look at but internals fine.
Solid as a rock. normal checks for BP ie cleaning.
then all the usual revolver checks.
here is a better link to the same place as above
armement reglementaire francais les armes de poing
Thanks guys. I'll let you know how it goes.
I don't think it's all matching but I can't really see the numbers well. It has quite a bit of color variation. Owner says it will probably clean off. I can't tell from the photos.
Check to make sure the cylinder lockup is good. To check cock the hammer and check that the cylinder stays aligned with the barrel without excessive play. Next check timing, in DA the cylinder should lockup just before the hammer falls.
Check the cylinder gap, anything over .010 and it will spit lead and fire out the sides, not that big a deal but something to check.
Other then that check the hammer nose for anything odd and for any odd rub marks on the cylinder, hammer, trigger and the frame itself.
Good luck!!
Ammo: a friend has one of these, and trimmed .44 S&W Russian cases fit without any further work (may depend on cylinder-recoil plate clearance).
My impression is that these are the most popular revolver in France for BPCR enthusiasts, being of a rugged construction that has lasted well.
Addendum to previous post by WarPig: in both actions (SA/DA) cylinder lockup and play can only be fairly checked as the hammer is about to fall. Up to the release point, the cylinders on old revolvers can feel rather loose because the locking mechanism (cylinder bolt a.k.a. stop/lugs/recesses) is often worn slightly diagonally. The final push that releases the hammer usually also gives that extra little bit of lug overlap and interlock that makes the timing better than it appears at first.
So if the cylinder lockup isn't good, should I pass or is it repairable? Price is at the lower end of the value listings for these so it's probably worth the asking price as a wall hanger.
This is the most informative website:
http://www.revolver1873.fr/
These guys even have reloading sets! (It really is popular in France)
http://www.hc-collection.com/
---------- Post added at 02:56 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:52 PM ----------
"So if the cylinder lockup isn't good, should I pass or is it repairable? Price is at the lower end of the value listings for these so it's probably worth the asking price as a wall hanger."
Yes, it is repairable. Get it. More later - my PC and this software are not getting on well with each other.
I'll defer to Patrick on repairability of antique revolvers.
OK, switched off PC, went and watered the front garden, let's hope the electronics is now behaving a bit better!
First off: most of my guns fall into the "near wallhanger" category, and I reckon that refurbishing a potential wallhanger that can be successfully returned to service is more useful to the community than paying out a huge wad of cash for something that is so good that you daren't take it to the range.
Second: I have treated a couple of revolvers, although my experience is not as extensive as with rifles. But the working principles are similar enough.
Third: I have got a few books on gunsmithing, but they deal almost exclusively with modern items, so that one finds over and over again tips on the lines of "if the length/diameter is more than 0.001" out of spec you will need to buy a replacement part from XYZ Parts Unlimited". This kind of advice is totally useless for just about every European BP gun.
So it's a case of DIY or wallhanger. I know which I prefer.
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"So if the cylinder lockup isn't good, should I pass or is it repairable? Price is at the lower end of the value listings for these so it's probably worth the asking price as a wall hanger. "
Yes, get it. I reckon you have the skills to do it yourself, unless the ratchet is really wrecked. If you like, I can talk you through it, but you will need to post good photos of the bits, showing the wearing surfaces, so that we can all see what needs to be done and others can chip in..
One caveat: if the bore has been ruined by someone using the "steel wire brush on an electric drill" method of removing rust, then it will be a wallhanger. I have not yet discovered how to regrow rifling - any tips will be welcome!
Hoping to see good pics of the internals of your new acquisition very soon!