W and F markings on TMH

Morning chaps, does anyone know the meaning of W and F (separately marked) at the back of a TMH behind the breaking latch on a UE60?

I assume it's something to do with a latch mod??

Mods were always identified using the Mod Number. So, for example, an internal modification carried out would be marked somewhere externally by the modification number. But a modification that is easily seen/identified wouldn't be marked at all as it'd be visually obvious in any case. I don't recognise the W and F as indicating anything. Tankie..., Skippy?

Attachment 65105here's a pic guys, helping our brethren out on fal-files with this one..

You mean that there's another forum? That TMH looks like it's got one of the bushing trial modifications on it. I mentioned it on a recent thread. There were some bushed TMH's as used in the reliability trials at ITDU left in the store when I left.

Alas, the writing was already on the wall for the L1A1 at the time

Evening Peter, do you mind if I copy and paste your reply on the files?

Cheers, John

No Pete, I have never noticed these before TBH. it is POSSIBLE, as you mention a Trials repair. That they MIGHT appertain to the Initials/ Reference Leger of Persons involved with the hands on Mod/ repair at that time?

As you also state, 'The Writing was on the wall' for the Dear Old L1A1. In my Humble opinion, the hinge pin hole repair situation. SHOULD have been
Properly implemented. As soon as it was known that in Service wear, could cause such problems. Boring & Bushing would have been the better & more efficient method!

The 'Ring punching' method was a VERY temporary so-called-repair, as you are familiar. & was akin to putting a sticking plaster over a hole in a leaking water pipe. It didn't last very long!...........................:rolleyes:

Feel free John..........

Another one has come to light chaps, same repair, but with X and W in the same place, looks like you are bang on the money Mike!

In that case it could be that the marks are to identify the TMH's on trial in the reports appertaining to wear patterns. Although why they wouldn't use the old original TMH/rifle A-12345 type serial number I can't imagine. The TMH's that I saw were naturally all old used ones with worn-out axis pin holes as that was the nature of the trial so maybe they didn't want to confuse RIFLE numbers with trial TMH numbers.

Trials kit was usually marked alphabetically (with painted on numbers/letters!). I/You could hazard a guess and suggest that it could indicate a TMH modified by Warminster Command workshop for the trial programme (the ITDU or our local unit workshop wouldn't have had the jigs to accurately bore eccentric axis pin holes) and the F or X was the identity marker. Just a guess.

Incidentally, a bushed TMH wouldn't be marked as it'd be obvious to the Armourers but as I recall, the new slightly longer hinge pin and matching locking screw had/was to have a concentric ring machined into the outer surface.

Glad you agree about uselessness of the ring punch Tankie. There was a similar one for Sterling butt frames. Renember that? A total waste of rations in both instances. The NZers had a far better idea to fix the L2A3 butt trunions. Bore out, re-bush in brass and soft solder in place. Worked a treat!!

Yes, you had to be VERY careful when applying heat to any Sterling receiver.
ALL the external fittings on the receiver 'Tube' body section.
were Electricly fusion brazed in the Daganham Factory during initial manufacture.

If you applied heat too much, you would discover that some of the fittings nearest to where you were applying local heat.
Would begin to 'slip' round the Body, as the heat spread & melted the brazing! :yikes:

I discovered this at a unit level when I wanted to remove a bayonet lug from a stripped receiver tube.
I was happily using the Armourers shop gas welding kit. & warming up the lug area on the receiver.
When to my abject HORROR! I noticed the Foresite protector bracket begin to move!!!!!
Well, I got the lug out OK. But had to carefully reheat the protector & push it back to it's original position with length of steel rod!.......

The Lug was inserted from INSIDE the receiver during manufacture. And held in position with a 'Flange' around the stem base area. & located in place with braze.

They are a Bast.....Er. 'Difficult' item to remove. And I would advise anyone not familiar with Sterlings. NOT to touch this item if damaged. It takes expertise & skill to fit one!....:crying:

Here endeth my painful lesson. & I hope you Kiddies learn from MY anxious experience?.......:nono:

:) :cheers: :D :lol: ;) :wave: