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In my effort to replace my #2 carbines' broken barrel band I purchased a replacement represented as original. Broken original band is on the left. I suspect I may be sending the replacement back for a refund. I appreciate experts eyes on and opinions. What do you guys think and why?
Thanks. <0
I can add more pics but from what I can see in this one they may not be needed.
https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo..._barrel_-1.jpg
Have a good look at the add especially if you got it from fleabay as sometimes it is listed as new (up the top) then later on somewhere in the description it may mention reproduction just read it carefully if it is a bona fide repro approach the seller for A) Cash reduction in purchase price C) Return the item at their cost they add the postage to your refunded purchase price.
But seriously look at the advert if an amicable solution is reached then there is no need to go to the disputes part.
Or you could accept it for what it is plonk it on the rifle and carry on slinging lead then you may happen onto an original at a cheap price hey presto rifles back to near original and you can always flog the non original but list it as such having been in disputes on fleabay sometimes it is just not worth the effort protracted and messy.
Or get the original repaired re-parked or blued and there you go........your call.
Quote:
Originally Posted by CINDERS
See the break? How can that be fixed?
re. the replacement: Not an ebay purchase and the seller will take a return. My question is: Is the band on the right a repro and why or why not?
# 3 About the band I cannot tell you as we are not allowed those weapons those that know all about the Carbines will be along shortly I was offering advice on returns, also if its metal why cannot it be arc welded/brazed, Tigg'ed, Migg'ed there are some very clever people who can do that stuff and if it has to be re-tempered for any reason then that can be done also, ceramic bead blasted & re-parked/blued have you asked anyone about the feasibility of doing this sometimes it is cheaper that buying a piece just trying to give you different options.
That's good if they will take a return.:thup:
It looks good, but we need a picture of the welds on the top. The majority of the Repos only have one weld, and tend to look a little deformed. It should have three welds ob top.
simple test: with screw and swivel out pinch the two open ends together, it they spring back to full form it is real. Real bands were made from spring steel, repros are not and when pinched will not spring back to full form.
3 welds although they look smaller than the original welds. Originals are very light, undefined, and "smeared". Will post pics later. A minor prob with my photo program currently.Quote:
Originally Posted by imarangemaster
Springs back but I am still concerned about the edge profile being flat and not round like the known originals I have seen. Does anyone know if the original bands had that flat edge profile?Quote:
Originally Posted by cali201
First, there are original bands with smaller, more pronounced spot welds. There are also fakes with smeary, undefined welds on top that are among the hardest to tell from the originals at first glance. As far as the out edge being rounded versus flat, I took out a known fake from my desk drawer (good to have fakes nearby) and the edge is straight, but so are some of the ones on my carbines that I know are original. One has to remember that there were multiple manufacturers of type one, two and three bands and that meant there were some subtle and maybe not so subtle differences. Sorry I couldn't be more help. I also wish you other band wasn't broken.Quote:
Originally Posted by HDSledge
Here's one we never really figured out.......... with plenty of pictures!
https://www.milsurps.com/showthread.php?t=45018
From the angle that the bands are photographed I can't tell the sort of finish that they are Parked or Blue but one tip that I was told is if it's blue it should/tended to be a dullish blue if original. If it's a really shiny blue it's more likely to be a reproduction. One trick which I used on a U.K. deactivated 1903 Springfield that had a band which was obviously fake because it was far too shiny was to round off the square edges, bead blast it, phosphate it and then re-blue it. It ended up as a dull blue with slightly rounded edges and it then didn't stand out like a sore thumb as repro.