Loose front pad on a #4T.
How to repair ?
Does Peter have a tutorial ?
Thanks.
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Loose front pad on a #4T.
How to repair ?
Does Peter have a tutorial ?
Thanks.
You can use the search bar top right of the page to search subject matter a bit of fishing and I found this there are 4 parts to it this is what you require I think.
In his book he states the T's had an issue with the front pads working loose in WWII my T & scope were part of testing to resolve that issue so pretty unique to be listed in Peters book, rifle & original scope still together.
https://www.google.com/url?client=in...19171,72519168
https://www.google.com/url?client=in...19171,72519168
Hey MJ, good to see you are ok, take care mate.
Heat it from the backside until the soft solder flows.
Remove the pad and screws.
Clean, flux and tin with new soft solder.
Discard the old screws and replace with new ones, (4BA oval head slotted). I like to trim them pretty close to correct length. Peter teaches us to file a small groove in the threads with a Swiss file so the solder flows into the threads.
Heat again from the backside until the solder flows and tighten the screws.
Dress the screws up on the inside of the body and touch up.
That's all there is to it. It's a bit of a three handed job. Get your wife to hold the torch if she doesn't mind while you tighten the screws. When it all cools off, it should be solid as a rock.
On the early T's the pads were not soldered.
The British ran into problems with it however the Canadians did not solder them until the British complained. whined bitched and made it official.
If you have a trails rifle the pads will probably not be soldered but the screws on the front mount will be chewed to rat poop.
For casual use I would not worry about soldering them and if you need new or want new screws send me a PM
cheers
Waren
Don't solder if you don't want to. I'd argue that there's a reason why it's the correct method of repair. I've done quite a few, some sent here by clients. Others purchased that way. When I imported the last 30 L42A1s in 2001, a third of them had loose front pads. I learned how to do it properly and they went out of here repaired and I haven't had any complaints. Those who feel it necessary to stake the screws should stake the screw heads into the old stake mark on the pad instead of continually staking the pad. It works just as well without butchery. Many L42 front pads have a half dozen stake marks from the front pad shooting loose in service.
Maybe that's why mine has a few stake marks Brian due to the testing of different methods holding the front pad into position to stop it working loose.
Isn't yours one of the listed pad staking trials rifles? I have one of the listed rifles too. A bog standard 1944 BSA/H&H rifle with Mk.3 scope. I'll have to get it out and see how many stakes are on the front pad. I found that if you repair one correctly using Peter's method of soldering the screws in, staking isn't that necessary for the range time we're giving them.
My 4T has a single stake mark, but my L42 has 3 stake marks
https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...No4T0017-1.jpg
https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo.../IMG8740-1.jpg
You are correct Brian it is listed as yours will be in Peter and Ian's book on the No.4 T rifle mine has it's original scope that is listed in the book a MkIII A K & S Ser = 16684.Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian Dick
Does any other person here have one of the sniper T & scope listed in the above book be interesting to find out just how many are still alive & kicking.
Is your rifle still paired with its original scope !
Funny how they started in England and ended up where they have, mine I purchased from and eastern states seller on the other side of Australia, if they could only tell us of their journeys.....!