Hi new here hope this is the right spot to post this. Has anyone ever tried retumbo in a 280 Ross? If so do you have a starting load?
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Hi new here hope this is the right spot to post this. Has anyone ever tried retumbo in a 280 Ross? If so do you have a starting load?
Welcome to the forum...have you checked with the manufacturer's site for their info?
I wish they had data but I'm finding it really hard to find load data for the 280 Ross. I've been using 4350 with ok results thought I'd try something else tho.
I just checked the Load Data site and with what little they have on the Ross that powder N-204 (Its even way slower than Reloader 25) it in my opinion others may differ is way to slow for it.
Your using 4350 at present this equates to our AR 2209 here they also showed 4831 which is a bit slower than 4350 it is our AR 2213 Short Cut I looked for a bit more in my books but could only to find 3 loads for cast bullets with a powder that was obsolete.
Thanks for the info would imr 3031 be a more sutible powder? If so what would be a good starting load for 154gr jacketed bullet? I bump them to .287.
Whatever the books recommend is what you should use. Asking for an unsubstantiated opinion is asking someone to give you permission to damage a rifle, without any liability on their part. If it ain't in print in a big manufacturer's book I wouldn't use it.Quote:
Originally Posted by bagograss
The problem I'm having is the newest book I found with load data for the 280 Ross was published in the 70s.
And the powders are probably not available. Have you looked in Cartridges of the world?
Yeah that's the reloading manual I have it's the 3rd edition. I also have a ideal boom from the 20s with data in it but that's way to old to use haha.
Nothing in C O T W 14th edition either Jim just stated FL = Factory load for the 140 - 150 - 160 to 180 grainers may have something in an earlier version but I would not transpose powders if its an obsolete one as the burn rates may be different. If you have managed to get it working with the powder your using without danger then try minute adjustments with the jump or a different primer but be wary as different primers can cause pressure prob's.
In the COTW book I have it has 4350 powder but it don't say imr. is this the same powder as imr 4350 that's sold nowadays? I'm using 56gr imr4350 with a 154gr bullet and it has a load listed for 60gr with a 160gr bullet. I've gone as high as 58gr imr4350 but I started having real flat primers with the Winchester primer not so bad with cci tho.
Use this and go from there but I strongly suggest you heed discretion I got caught once with experimenting thankfully the bolt held together and stayed in the action remember the Ross is an old weapon of who's past you know nothing of unless it has been in your family since new.
https://www.google.com.au/url?sa=t&r...Kl4T5S-vM8pnpQ
My m10 was actually bought new in 1916 by my great grandfather but it's been sitting for about 40 years till I started reloading for it. It shoots the kynoch rounds really nice but I don't have many of them. Thanks for the link.
Just got done reading through the Wikipedia page for this round. Quite impressive round and a pretty big innovation at the time, sounds like.
I must confess, it’s news to me. I’m glad you posted about it!
You may want to check out an article by Jim Foral in the "2002 Gun Digest" where he gives instructions at the end of the article on case forming and loading. He suggests using data for the 7x61 Sharpe and Hart to load for the .280 Ross as the case capacity is the same. 7x61 data, while scarce, is more readily available than .280 Ross data. Some of the loads given for the COTW tend to be somewhat warm in both Ross rifles and also those listed for a .256 Newton. Have been using 67gr of H-4831 behind a 160 gr bullet bumped up to .289 in one of my Ross's in both Kynoch and reformed .300 Winchester Magnum cases. Same load in the other one with .284 diameter bullets as it does not accept the bumped bullets.
Once again I caution you, if you're already seeing flattened primers...be careful of your practises. You're way up on pressures and will never know how high without the pressure test gear.
How many reloads do you get with the 300 win mag brass? I've used that brass before buy had head separation after just 2 reloads. I've been using 375 ruger brass with way better case life just a little harder to form. My bore is 287 when I slugged it. It keyholes with .284 bullets. Do you know your bore size on the one you shoot .289 in?
Have 9 reloads with the reformed .300 Winchester brass and no losses (old Winchester cases). When forming, size my cases so they just enter the chamber and can then neck size with a 7mm Rem. Mag die. Do the same with my Kynoch cases but my supply of Berdan primers has has been reduced substantially and the last lot does not appear to be hot enough to consistently ignite the powder charge. Haven't been able to get the 375 Ruger cases - seem to be back ordered at the local shop. For your information, the Kynoch bullets I have measure between .276 to .277.
Just wondering was that meant to be .286 to.287?
bagogras
Your assumption is correct - should read .286 to .287
Yeah all my kynoch rounds measured the same I have some Winchester rounds that measured .287 also.
I tried Retumbo in September 2013, and managed to get chronograph 12-ft readings of a bit more than 3000 fps. with the 160-grain Woodleigh bullet. However, I'll not suggest a starting load, nor will I post the loads I used. There is too much variation in bore and chambers among Ross M-10 sporters. Brass capacity and strength will vary considerably, depending on source -- original or formed from something else. Bullet diameters can be a problem for the unwary too.Quote:
Originally Posted by bagograss
If some forum member knows of a source of pressure-tested data from a reputable, reliable ballistics lab (Hodgdon, Lyman, or one of the bullet mfrs, I wish they would share that information in a post.
Thanks.
-Bob