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Should I Have Passed On This Inland?
I bought this one about 6 months ago on a hunch of what might be on the inside. It sat for 2-3 months before I decided to pull it apart. First problem was I couldn't get the sling off, and still haven't figured out how the PO got the darn thing on there! I'll show a few pics - I've been wanting to get an idea of what you guys think of it.
I didn't take the bolt apart, but it's marked IO 2 on the left lug and has a Type 1 ejector and firing pin. Other than a couple obvious mods to the stock, my biggest let-down was to find an "in-the-white" Type 3 SG hammer and a 26 coil spring - both look brand new. I spent more time cleaning off verdigris and trying to get the oiler (IS) out (never could) than I did examining the rest of the gun that night! The Op Slide is a Type 2 marked PI without the circle. The Op Slide spring has closed coils on each end that are ground flat. It measures a full 10-1/4" in length and is "in-the-white."
I see an S on the front sight - is it a poorly struck SI? The receiver shows the "two tone" pattern and there's a lighter area where the barrel band would have rested when being finished. The hand guard is unmarked and appears to be a Type 1 "bull-nose" - the stock has the "Julian Date" numbers in the slide channel. There's a circled P on the pistol grip, no import or rebuild marks, but also no CC visible on the RH side.
I've seen another Inland having a UI marked sling swivel with no serifs, but this one has them - hope that's correct. My original plan was to keep this Carbine just like it is - with little if any changes. The (2) previous owners had both served in the US Navy - a WWII veteran and his son, both now gone. I would appreciate any questions and/or comments. If you need more pictures of any area, let me know. Thanks! - Bob
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Finally Got The Sling Off!
My goal was to get the sling and oiler removed and still have the sling capable of being reinstalled. To do that, I needed to drill out the rivet and replace it with a post (barrel) screw. The rivet turned out to be hollow steel about 1/8" in diameter with brass caps. When I started drilling, the cap came off - then it got really tough to get the rest of the rivet out without ruining the leather.
The smallest post screw I could find at HD was 3/16" x 1/4" so knew I would have to shorten both pieces to get the length down enough to tighten against the leather. Even though the leather was nearly 1/8" thick just a few inches from the riveted loop, I found that I needed to shorten the post to a length of about .170" to match the leather at the loop. The (double) thickness of the leather in the area where it comes in contact with the oiler when installed on the gun, is about .235" - that's why the loop at the end of the sling has to be taken apart to remove the oiler. I used a 3/16" hollow punch to increase the size of the original rivet holes.
The oiler didn't look like it had been out or had the cap off in a long time - an original leather washer was still in there! I'll probably put on a GI sling, but at least I was able to save the "Veteran" one!
I'll attach a few pictures. - Bob
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