MKI and MKII wood

Hi Everybody

Are there any major differences between the No.4 MKI and MKII wood sets?

Thanks

Steve

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Originally Posted by Devils Own

Hi Everybody

Are there any major differences between the No.4 MKI and MKII wood sets?

Thanks

Steve

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Yes - the only real difference is at the rear of the forend (where the trigger sits) on a Mk1 the wood goes all the way across the rear end, whilst on a MK2 the end is 'open'. You can easily make a MK1 a MK2 by cutting out the piece of wood but to go the other way involves splicing in a new piece and shaping the woodwork.

It's a lot easier to find the right part, but as Alan points out, one can be turned into the other.

https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...heDraws3-1.jpg

Mk1 Forend (see on the right hand side the wood goes all the way across the 'trigger gap / slot' On a MK2 the 'gap / slot' goes all the way left to right)

Thanks Fellas

I haven't got any MKIIs. But I am suspecting that one of my MKIs has got the 'wrong' wood on it and in view of your comments, this seems to be the case.

Steve

You can also tell them apart without removing the action by looking at the rear of the fore-end. The Mk 1 has a bracket and a retaining pin, whereas the Mk 2 does not have the bracket (that would otherwise cross the gap). It only has a rivet.

AFAIK, the MKI forend has the cut-away for the magazine cut off and the 'king screw' hole is countersunk from the receiver side.

Sorry to butt in ... Can one use MkII wood on a Mk I receiver?

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Originally Posted by lngstrt

Sorry to butt in ... Can one use MkII wood on a Mk I receiver?

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Only if you can splice in the wood needed to fill the gap across the rear of the forend, and, if you can locate a "tie strap & brass rivet".
You'll also need to shape / cut out the wood where the tie strap goes.

Unless you are an acomplished woodworker I'd say "NO".

Easy to go from a Mk1 to a Mk2 but not the other way around.

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Originally Posted by Alan de Enfield

Only if you can splice in the wood needed to fill the gap across the rear of the forend, and, if you can locate a "tie strap & brass rivet".
You'll also need to shape / cut out the wood where the tie strap goes.

Unless you are an acomplished woodworker I'd say "NO".

Easy to go from a Mk1 to a Mk2 but not the other way around.

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Did it once, to see how much time was involved; easier to get a Mk1 forend...

Lou

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Originally Posted by Alan de Enfield

Easy to go from a Mk1 to a Mk2 but not the other way around.

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That would leave you with the cutout for the tie strap.

BTW an armourer recently told me that the No 2 fore-end was prone to distortion. I wanted to upgrade in order to perfect the trigger pull. He advised me to keep the No 1 fore-end and learn how to improve the trigger (he gave me oneto experiment with).

You CAN use a Mk2 (open rear end) fore-end on a Mk1 rifle. Providing that you utilise the long 4BA nut and bolt. You can also use a Mk1 fore-end (closed end, with a tie plate and brass rivet) on a Mk2 rifle providing that you cut the rivet and tie plate away and cut the wood away that would otherwise foul the trigger block. Many hundreds of thousands were converted this way. Once it's fitted, simply patch the wood with undercut rounded patches and re-drill the rivet hole for use with a new long 4BA nut and bolt

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Originally Posted by Peter Laidler

You CAN use a Mk2 (open rear end) fore-end on a Mk1 rifle. Providing that you utilise the long 4BA nut and bolt.

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Is it that easy Peter? I mean, the Mk1 doesn't require the extra bit of wood in the middle to prevent the two sides from squeezing something it shouldn't?

I did turn a Mk2 into a Mk1 forend once, and matching the size and shape of this little bit of wood in the middle took a while!

Lou