Gas Cylinder Lock Screw-Tight!

Looking to remove the screw - really snug - I am concerned over damaging the screw, etc. (being careful not to hold via handguard).

Any ideas as to next steps - tools? ( I need a reason to make another trip to the hardware store)

Thank You!

pad the jaws of a vice, clamp gas cyl in it(just enough to hold it) if it is the late style try a 1/4" socket ext in it ,should spin out or large blade screwdiver for old style.

Use a ratchet with a short 1/4 inch extension . It will fit inside the cross slot and allow you much more contact surface than a screwdriver and more leverage .

Being one of those "car nuts" with a fairly extensive restoration shop, for tight ones I use an impact with a bit I cut out of a T45 Torx bit. Gets'um off with the least amount of "collateral damage".

FWIW, "tight"/over-torqued lock screws are why torque wrenches were invented in the first place! 25 ft/lbs on the pin!

I made a wrench using a 5/16" Allen wrench. Grind a 1/4" square on the end. If you really have a tight one...put a short piece of pipe on the end.

Thank you very much on the ideas.

I am going to work carefully - really need to get her opened up and squared away cleaning.

Will keep you posted....

BTW - I think I have feelings for my M1..... I LUV MY GARAND!

Grateful Lead,

If I may offer some advice. Do you have Kroil Oil? (or any penatrant) Apply some Kroil at the seam where the gas plug flange and gas cylinder mate, then with the rifle's muzzle pointing down, apply a liberal amount of Kroil in the back of the gas cylinder and the (the important part) walk away! Let the Kroil do the work. Give it a day. The with the action out of the stock, pad the tangs and vise it up. Apply slow increasing pressure until the plug comes loose. Use whatever tool you have that will have the least play engaging the gas plug. Do not jerk or hit the plug loose. This can cause other problems later. The Kroil will get p under the carbon and loosen it.

If I may be of other assistance, just yell.

Best regards,

Sights

For next time, coat the threads of your gas cylinder lock with antiseize. I got my bottle at an autoparts store

I also recommend doing this with the M1a gas cylinder lock.

https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...06/80071-1.jpg

These parts were meant to be assembled dry. You do not need thread lockers or never sieze compounds. You just need the proper tools. These can be purchased through Fulton Armory and others.

https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...Dscf0934-1.jpg

I use a similar set-up to above for removing frozen gas lock screws.
3/8" T-Bar, Extension, and Phillips socket are Craftsman
The gas lock wrench should be in everyones kit in my opinion.
+1 on a drizzle of Kroil Oil if the screw just won't budge, let it sit and soak for a half hour and then try.:super:

https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...tandard-35.jpg

stick screwdriver tip in gas screw. take adjustable wrench and tighten it on the square shaft of the large screwdriver. push down on screwdriver handle with one hand while siumlatenously turning the screwdriver shaft counterclockwise with the adjustable wrench with other hand.

I actually have an old beat up op-rod that I filed the actuator handle/tip down to fit the slot which works great and has plenty of leverage. The secret is to never torque a gas screw in harder than firm hand pressure.

Maybe it's counter to the "run dry" design, but years ago - all the way back to when we started out in Highpower shooting a club loaner Garand - I learned that a dab of shotgun choke tube lube on the threads keeps the screw secure and enables easy removal.

Hey--I LOVE my anti-seize! Anything that will let me unscrew exhaust system nuts years afterwards gets my vote.

Putting lots of torque on stuck gas cylinder screws is just not one of my favorite things.

Good suggestions on how to get it off after it's locked on pretty tight.

I thought I'd chime in on possible cause (to prevent in the future). Obviously going hog wild with a screwdriver/combo tool will do it. Also, if you notice after shooting, while the barrel/gas cylinder are still hot, the screw feels loose because the metal has expanded and enlarging the threaded hole. If you screw it in tight while hot, look out 'cause you're probably going to have a problem getting it loose while cooled.

This situation happened to me once and the large screwdriver with an adjustable wrench on the square shaft provided the necessary leverage without excessive torque.

Cheers