My Springfield 1903 stock literally drips oil when hot from either shooting or laying in the sun.
How do I clean it up (out) ? Considered leaving it our in the sun, but that may takes days and collect dirt blown by the wind.
TIA
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My Springfield 1903 stock literally drips oil when hot from either shooting or laying in the sun.
How do I clean it up (out) ? Considered leaving it our in the sun, but that may takes days and collect dirt blown by the wind.
TIA
I have been useing this method for years put it on the dash board of your truck or car with rags down first of course.The hot sun will take the oil and grease out.Some people make out side ovens of glass hope this helps you out
i hot tank them in brownells 909 cleaner.
Get some Whiting from Brownell's. It is placed on the oil soaked stock and when placed in the sun, will absorb most of the oil.
A "pan" made out of aluminum foil,shiney side in,put the stock in it,put the whole thing out in the sun and wipe it off occasionally with an old towel or rag.Worked fairly well on a greek 03 that I got back in the first round of returns.Jim
A paint stripping gun speeds up the process. Play it over about a 12 sq in area til it bubbles. Then wipe quickly & repeat the proess two or three times more.
Heat gun
It boils up in the area heated and wipe
I doubt any method that doesn't involve removing the finish will be satisfactory. chuckindenver's tank method being such an example. Frankly, I would simply use a minute or so of oven cleaner, rinse for three to five minutes under the hose, check for stubborn areas, repeat only in those spots, and refinish.
there is nothing "magic" about restoring a military oil-based stock finish. Arguably, the only "finish" on an oil=impregnated stock is GRIME and OIL anyway. Most of the other methods will either take WEEKS and yield a fairly poor look, or won't work at all.
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of course, you can always PAINT the stock as another option! LOL
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never ever use oven cleaner on wood. it will destroy the grain at best.
iv stripped over 300 stocks and handguards by my method, not one has come back or has leached out grease after its been refinished.
iv posted many before and after pics of stocks in the past.
all of these stocks were hot tank cleaned, and were all grease ball soaked wood.. the close Carbine stock had to be done 2 times to remove all the grease.
note: all the stamps and markings came back up better then they were before they were tanked,
the heat raises the wood and helps the markings stand out better.
this will sound strange ... but here goes because it works
strip the wood from the gun
wrap in a clean rag
place it in the dish washer when the wifes gone out
put in the detergant and wash for the longest cycle inthe machine
tahe out when finished and with the wood still warm wrap in new clean cloth
and put into the top shelf of a warm airing press
go inside put the tv on and watch tv till her indoors comes back
swear blind you dont know what the woody smell is in the dish wash room
and I have used Oven Cleaner on HUNDREDS of stocks also. Caustic Lye is what was USED to refinish/strip wood for a few hundred years, I think having a can of OCleaner on the shelf beats having to keep a "tank" of chemicals in my garage. there are usualy several ways to efficiently skin a cat, and with common sense, oven cleaner works extremely well. In fact, oven cleaner methods was taught to me by a German guild trained gunsmith.
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Something that worked for me was to strip the wood, then brush on Clorox liquid bleach, let sit and then rag off. I first read about this in an old gunsmithing book. It works.
Thanks all...you sure have give me some good ideas to consider. I just have to acquire the patience to choose one that will work for me. Thanks again!
I agree with Chuck on never using a caustic solution on a stock. The stock is organic. Oven cleaner breaks down organic fibers. The oven cleaner can also says wear gloves when using it. Well if the oven cleaner won't hurt a stock then it shouldn't hurt your hands either. After all your hands are organic also.
Patrick What brand of dish washer do you have? Must be a big mother to get an 03 stock in it.
I have also seen descriptions of heating the stock in an oven. Most be a big oven also.
I scrub the stock with Murphy's oil, then I use heat supplied by mother nature (the sun). I wrap the stock in layers of paper towels (cheaper than kitty litter) and put it in black plastics garbage bags and let it cook.
Works for me:super:
What I noticed about the heat gun was you reach a point were the oil puddles up and then there is a release of steam. then that area no longer weeps
QUOTE=Doug Rammel;66296]I agree with Chuck on never using a caustic solution on a stock. The stock is organic. Oven cleaner breaks down organic fibers. The oven cleaner can also says wear gloves when using it. Well if the oven cleaner won't hurt a stock then it shouldn't hurt your hands either. After all your hands are organic also.
[/QUOTE]
actually, unless you leave it on your hands for more than a few minutes, there is not affect. like I said, I KNOW what works best for me. advising people to "never" do this or that tend to fall into the gun-show waiting line level of "expertise." and I can keep posting befores and afters for a LONG time.
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It may amuse the readers of this thread to hear that the active ingredients in both Brownell's 909 cleaner and OvenOff heavy duty cleaner/degreaser (not the wimpy home grade "odorless" type) is identical: "sodium metasilicate" Ph 12.25 a caustic "base".
I've used Oven-Off on a few stocks with "good" results, but the Greek return 03-A3 I got from CMP took 3 Oven-Off baths and a month in my car window in August and it STILL leaks on a hot day.
YMMV
Okay..what a day. Wrapped the stock in paper towels, inside a large black trash bag. Left out side all day while at work.
For the first time in weeks it was cloudy All Day!!
It sweated some, but not much. Will continue to set it out and see what happens.
I take it into the shower with me, gojoe hand cleaner,liquid hand soap and an old wash cloth. raises the dents and gets a lot of the oil out.
I know there are several "options" out there that work well for individual members (mine is borrowing [with her permission] the wife's hair dryer and doing patch at a time.).
I would suggest if you are new to the game, that you avoid an "aggressive" oil removal product (like oven cleaner) until you feel more confident. Also, don't pick a valuable stock for your first project.
JMHO, of course.
Quote:
Originally Posted by charliex
thats just wierd. :o
I seem to recall in prior discussions over its use, that in some cases, oven cleaner caused the stock to turn a nasty shade of green or black. Does anyone have pictures that they can share of such color changes? To me, it wasn't worth the risk of ruining a good stock. I always had good luck with mineral spirits first, and if that didn't clean up the stock, I would wipe it down with acetone. The mineral spirits didn't really effect the finish too much, a quick wipe down with 0000 steel wool only cleaned off the dirt and accummulated grime. Acetone however, would strip everything down to the bare wood, and afterwards you would need to apply your choice of Boiled Linseed Oil, Tung Oil, or some other finish on the wood. As for the really oil-soaked stocks, I belive that the best way to go is with heat - sun, hair dryers, heat lamps, PVC Pipe ovens, or whatever. Cook the oil out, then clean the wood, then re-apply BLO, Tung Oil, etc. HTH, YMMV, KarlKW
I'm on day 9 of my "cook the cosmoline out" project. A 1928 C stock that seems to have been in cosmoline since 1945 or so. Every day, when I get to work, I put the stock, wrapped in a plastic trash bag, on the dashboard of my Jeep. When I get home, take it out and remove all the cosmoline that has seeped out. It seems like the dashboard method is working alot faster than just leaving it out in the sun.Yesterday, there was very little left, so I think today will be the last day. Then I plan on cleaning it with a mix of ammonia, mineral spirits, acetone and raw linseed oil (4/4/4/1) (got the formula from a guy who used to sell it) using 4/0 steel wool.
Chuck-I highly respect the valuble info you have posted here in the past, but what you say re oven cleaner( at least Easy-Off Heavy Duty) is just not true, @ least in my experience. I have personally cleaned eight of nine old military stocks, both walnet & beech, using Easy-Off with absolutely no harm resulting to the wood, grain or otherwise. The wood looked "as new" when I finished. Each of them has taken a new finish (BLO, raw tung oil or varnish) with no problems. I think that the trick may be to not let the cleaner remain of the wood f/too long, & to rinse w/lots of water. I usually rinse 2 or 3 times and then allow the wood to dry for several days before proceeding.Quote:
Originally Posted by chuckindenver
Donzi
i done these with easy off. didn't seem to hurt them none as near as i can tell.
i'm guessing that the BLO replaces any oil the easy off might have sucked out.
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besides,my shooting coach likes them.
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I know of people who have had excellent results with oven cleaner. However, I still recommend to those new to stock refinishing that they pick something a little more benign, just to play it safe.
JMHO, ofcourse.
Everything you could possibly want to know:
http://parallaxscurioandrelicfirearm...-cleaning.html
and then some
Art
Rick- Based on my own experience, I'd agree that it's always best to start with the least destructive course of action. You can always try more agressive means, but you can't back up once you've started. Save the oven cleaner as a last resort, but save it. JMHO.Quote:
Originally Posted by Rick the Librarian
Donzi
And what about Tri Sodium Phosphate?
Precisely my point - it is best to start out slow.
with Easy Off providing you follow these SIMPLE steps.
1. DO not allow Easy Off to stay on your stock for more than ONE MINUTE (honestly, I would say three minutes here, but one minute is ALL that is needed).
2. Once you apply a good coat of oven cleaner, place over 5 gallon plastic bucket and use a plastic pot srubber to GENTLY agitate the oven cleaner over the grimy surface and then into the bucket.
3. Have garden hose stanidng by and the rinse the wood THOROUGHLY. I mean like for 3-5 minutes using your hand to rub any trace of the cloeaner off the wood (or you can GENTLY use the plastic scrubber).
4. Occasionally, there will be a small spot or two of stubborn grime, repeat the same process on thos SPOTS and RINSE througly.
5. YOU CANNOT HARM WOOD WITH WATER.
6. Let the stock dry for a few hours.
7. VOILA, done.
I get oven cleaner (heavy duty) on my hands ALL THE TIME. It will start to burn MAYBE 3-5 minutes later. Woo hoo. Usually, I just wipe my hands on a shop cloth and don't worry about it.
The only thing that I have found (and used) is ZIP STRIP (blue can). The advantage of this is that you can leave the stuff on the wood as long as you like. DIsadvantages: 1. IT BURNS LIKE H#LL if you get it on your skin (or Heaven help you, your eyes! - muy peligroso!!) 2: IT DON'T WORK AS GOOD, several coats needed and its SLOW)
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I'm not denying that some folks have gotten good results from using oven cleaner - by "slow I meant I wouldn't suggest it for a beginner.
In regard to the "Hot Car" method - It worked for me on several stocks. Just remember to not let the stock cool down after heating in the sun. The oil/grease will go back into the stock if it cools off. I wipe the oil off with paper towels and finish with a paper towel soaked in mineral spirits.
and I disagree. I was a "beginner" when I first used this method.Quote:
Originally Posted by Rick the Librarian
I think it would be more accurate to say this method is not recommended for people with double-digit IQ levels (or lower). For anyone else, it's easy and safe.
so,
why the personal attacks???why do your posts always end up with a personal attack on someone, only if the dont agree with what your posting??
is it possible to just give some advise, agree to disagree with someone and move on.
why does it have to be a long drawn out deal, and then when you dont get your way, attack everyone else with a different opinion??
if you dont like the people here, and think your better, then the answer is simple...move on to another forum, or better yet, start your own...
OK, Chuck, EXACTLY what WORDS constitute a "personal attack?" SImply disagreeing (and providing proof(s)) somehow becomes a slander?
Sheesh.
Quote:
Originally Posted by AKA Hugh Uno
Perhaps the statement above meets the criteria for the definition below:
ad hominem [(ad hom-uh-nem, ad hom-uh-nuhm)]
A Latin expression meaning “to the man.” An ad hominem argument is one that relies on personal attacks rather than reason or substance.
?
Without getting into a P*ssing contest let's agree to disagree. :surrender:
You do it your way and I'll do it mine. But if you reread your directions, it seems to me your saying oven cleaner is harmful. :banghead:
Quote:
"slow" simply yeilds nothing fast. It is IMPOSSIBLE to harm wood
with Easy Off providing you follow these SIMPLE steps.
1. DO not allow Easy Off to stay on your stock for more than ONE MINUTE (honestly, I would say three minutes here, but one minute is ALL that is needed).
2. Once you apply a good coat of oven cleaner, place over 5 gallon plastic bucket and use a plastic pot srubber to GENTLY agitate the oven cleaner over the grimy surface and then into the bucket.
3. Have garden hose stanidng by and the rinse the wood THOROUGHLY. I mean like for 3-5 minutes using your hand to rub any trace of the cloeaner off the wood (or you can GENTLY use the plastic scrubber).
4. Occasionally, there will be a small spot or two of stubborn grime, repeat the same process on thos SPOTS and RINSE througly.
5. YOU CANNOT HARM WOOD WITH WATER.
But it does raise the grain. Do you sand after it dries? That is bad for the cartouches
6. Let the stock dry for a few hours.
7. VOILA, done.
I get oven cleaner (heavy duty) on my hands ALL THE TIME. It will start to burn MAYBE 3-5 minutes later. Woo hoo. Usually, I just wipe my hands on a shop cloth and don't worry about it.
The only thing that I have found (and used) is ZIP STRIP (blue can). The advantage of this is that you can leave the stuff on the wood as long as you like. DIsadvantages: 1. IT BURNS LIKE H#LL if you get it on your skin (or Heaven help you, your eyes! - muy peligroso!!) 2: IT DON'T WORK AS GOOD, several coats needed and its SLOW)
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
It looks like your admitting oven cleaner is caustic.
I don't try to get a milsurp looking brand knew. I like it clean but leave the been there done that look.
Have a good one
Doug
and it's ad hominem ARGUMENT (technically "argumentum ad personam").
In order for there to be an ad hominem reply, there must be a HOMINEM responded to with a derisive personal comment.
Had I said, "Joe Smoe, YOU have only a double-digit IQ," THAT would qualify.
Since I SPECIFICALLY stated:
1. Rick, I disagree.
2. RIck, I understood what you said the first time
AND THEN
3. I said, it would not be recommended for ANYONE with a double digit IQ (as in anyone ELSE as in 3rd parties).
I suspect this is just a matter (at least in part) of whose "ox has been gored" and some folks taking it personally.
Just a reminder that honest disagreement is allowed -- personal attacks are not.
Don't have any problem with folks who DO use this method or those that don't. Just know when the boundary cannot be crossed.
[It looks like your admitting oven cleaner is caustic.
I don't try to get a milsurp looking brand knew. I like it clean but leave the been there done that look.
Have a good one
Doug[/QUOTE]
Yeah, Sure, it's caustic. And vodka is poison if you drink too much of it?
so what?
here is the typical warning for "non-caustic" woood striper:
hmm, cancer, brain-damage, burns, birth-defects, flammability, blindness.
thanks, but I will stick with "caustic" (but comparably much safer) oven cleaner.
***********
Cautions and Warnings
HEALTH HAZARD INFORMATION: Contains Methylene Chloride which has been shown to cause cancer in certain laboratory animals. WARNING: This product contains chemicals known to the state of California to cause cancer and birth defects or other reproductive harm. Vapor harmful. May affect the brain or nervous system causing dizziness, headache, or nausea. Causes nose and throat irritation. May be absorbed through the skin. If symptoms occur, leave the area.
Notice: Reports have associated repeated and prolonged occupational overexposure to solvents with permanent brain and nervous system damage. Risk to your health depends on level and duration of exposure. Intentional misuse by deliberately concentrating and inhaling contents may be harmful or fatal. Do not breathe vapors or spray mist. USE ONLY WITH ADEQUATE VENTILATION Use this product out of doors, if possible. If you must use it indoors, prevent build up of vapors by opening all windows and doors to achieve cross ventilation or use other means to assure fresh air movement during use and drying. Reduces blood's oxygen-carrying capacity. People having or suspected of having heart trouble or any pulmonary disorders and women who are pregnant should consult their physician before using this product. Do not use in unventilated or basement areas. Obtain professional advice before using a respirator. A dust mask does not provide protection against vapors. Avoid contact with eyes, skin and clothing. CAUTION: To protect sensitive skin wear chemical resistant gloves. Contact of product or vapor with flame, pilot light or hot surfaces such as kerosene heaters, gas stoves, water heaters, clothes dryers, electric paint strippers may produce toxic or corrosive gases. Open container carefully and close after each use. Remove rags, papers and waste promptly out of doors. Allow solvent to evaporate, then place in a closed metal container for disposal.
Do not store near heat or in areas of widely fluctuating temperatures or display in windows.
FIRST AID. Eye Contact: Immediately flush with plenty of water at least 15 minutes and get medical attention immediately. Skin contact: Wash thoroughly with soap and water. If irritation persists, get medical attention. If inhaled and difficulty in breathing, leave area, obtain fresh air. If difficulty continues, get medical assistance immediately. If swallowed, do not induce vomiting. Get medical assistance immediately.
Transport and store in upright position only. Never store or transport in area where sun or heat exposure may cause temperature of product to elevate above normal ambient condition; this may cause product to expand, causing product to leak or container to rupture.
Liability is limited to refund of purchase price or product replacement.
KEEP OUT OF REACH OF CHILDREN.
Hugh Uno, you are just not getting the picture here. I'm starting to wonder why. Your method is great, I've used it on a number of stocks myself. Chuck does not think so. Okay fine, the comment about the double digit IQ was an attack that was implied. Albeit, not to any one person but to all who did not agree with your line of thinking. Please refrain from this type of reply. Choose your words carefully. You have some great ideas and are valued as a great contributor to this site. Don't cloud that with stabs however slight they may be. Thank you.
Fine Bill, I thought this had been worked out via PM.
But, don't you honestly think that there is a bit of a double standard here?
Hughno makes an "implied" attack and in REPLY, someone else makes the following statements:
1. "why do your posts always end up with a personal attack on someone?"
(This seems like an EXPRESS and false and insulting statement).
2. "is it possible to just give some advise, agree to disagree with someone and move on."
(ditto, does not seem very "nice" to me)
3. "why does it have to be a long drawn out deal,"
(ditto)
4. "if you dont like the people here, and think your better, then the answer is simple...move on to another forum, or better yet, start your own."
Hmmm, I don't particularly care to be told to "go away."
Doesn]'t THAT qualify as RUDE??
I fully understand that Chuck adds value by contribution and may be your friend, but, don't messages like THIS also cross that line? I'm a big boy, so it really isn[t a huge deal. just trying to get a balance here.
thanks and my sincere apologies to anyone who felt offended by the double digit remark. .
To get back on topic, I just finished the cleaning process on a 1903 stock. 6 good, sunny days total in a plastic bag on the dashboard of my Jeep, wiping it with mineral spirits at the end of each day. Saturday, I steamed the entire stock, avoiding markings, using a wet rag and the wifes iron. It came out beautiful. Similar, I suspect, to Chucks method of hot tanking. Minor dings disappeared, but still has some gouges that just show it's a 80 year old stock. Now, to start on applying a finish....
In the end (notice I'm trying to bring this discussion to a close!), there are numerous ways of removing oil from a stock. They all work to one extent or another and you can see that folks on this forum have had varying amounts of luck with them. Those who try them out who don't have experience, shold be aware of the advantages and disadvantages of each one. You can PM/email those wo have had success an I'm sure they can give you additional hep.
As one of our members says, "YMMV". :D
I have always used regular paint stripper and a plastic scraper or card for the big stuff then washed it off. After drying for a day or two I then use an old wet towel or washcloth and steam it good with an old steam iron I have. Draws all the left over grease and scrunge out of the pores and removes any small dents. Hopes this helps.;)
Some kitty litter in a black garbage bag with the stock, on a closed vehicle dash for a couple days in the Summer, has always leached out the crud for me. A paint brush, cut off short, used with mineral spirits, will finish the job. It doesn't raise the grain or swell and destroy any of the markings.
I, personally like to use Formby's or Minwax antique furniture refinisher. It will cut the crud and doesn't take a long time to do it. It also has a pleasant smell, if that sort of thing is important to you or "she who must be obeyed". I use it with a 3 or 4 "O" stripping pad and that is about as aggressive as I get because I like the "lived in look" of GI stocks. A little raw lindseed oil and the color comes right back.
regards,
Chief
Hey guys,
Finally a great sh%tstorm. Think the new home is broken in now. Just like ole times. The old storms always produced a lot of great information and entertaining posts.
Bet Chuck has a higher I.Q. than the president.
Now about this low numbered '03 I just bought, thinkin' about shootin' it, but.......
Regards to all for sharing your stock cleaning methods,
Lancebear