Preservation or needless babying?

After going through the Brownells catalog a bit more, I have a couple more questions. While I do not plan on shooting any of mine much, or with anything aside from factory ammo, I wanted to take a couple steps to make them last longer.

* Are recoil/side buffers worth it? Given that I have fresh recoil springs and don't plan to fire anything other than commercial WWB, is this something beneficial or not worth it?

* Speaking of recoil springs, should they be replaced by age or use? I generally swap them out when I acquire something, but now that some of my acquisitions are pushing 15 years old and spent most of that time in a safe, do I want to replace them before taking them to the range again, or is it more a function of how many times the slide moves?

* I have one pistol (will write about it soon) that came to me with some pretty nasty rust under the left grip panel. Its cleaned up now and I am using Eezox as my choice of protectant overall. Does it make sense to cut out a piece of "Gunwrap" corrosion-resistant paper to slip between the frame and grip to prevent further rusting?

Would appreciate your input on this and any other long-term preservation tips. I want shooters, not museum pieces

recoil spring buffers are a waste of money, and will make more issues then cure.
a new spring is a good thing, but with a collector pistol, id leave it be,
when you have the pistol stored, you an relieve the spring presssure, by letting the spring stick out of the front of the pistol,
unless it gets rusty, the spring should last forever,
simple cleaning, and a application of GI rifle grease seems to work just fine, stored in a treated light gun case.
i leave the end open an inch.. seems to make me feel better.

* Are recoil/side buffers worth it? Given that I have fresh recoil springs and don't plan to fire anything other than commercial WWB,

I used a shok-buff in my 1911 range gun that was eating 99% military ball and an 18# spring. The gun was being shot 1-3 nights a week and 2-4 boxes per night. I doubt it made any difference but didn't hurt and reliability was fine. You might go with a 17# or 18# spring if you are using ball equivalent ammo exclusively which might help reduce battering.

* Speaking of recoil springs, should they be replaced by age or use?

USE
1500-2000 rounds seems to be the recommended amount of use. AGE has absolutely NOTHING to do with spring life (unless you are on the planet Mercury or something like that).

the best way to stop rust is to REMOVE it (ALL of it) You can then do anything you like in the way of nostrums (CLP etc.) to prevent further problems.

If you are worried about shooting a collectible pistol, the finish will wear off before you begin to have mechanical problems because you didn't change a recoil spring. John Browning designed the pistol to function with a 15/16# recoil spring, so anything any stronger is just for your own amusement.
As far as storage, I have used the Robert's Arms Specialties boxes for years with a sheet of Brownell's VPI paper, and have never had any issues. The pistol is always wiped down with a thin coat of light preservative oil just to remove fingerprints.

https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo.../30ldrbp-1.jpg

Thanks for the advice so far.

Is this the VPI paper?


http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=1...P_trade__PAPER

I use old cigar boxes (after making sure they are dried out) lined with a kind of heavy wax paper.

As for springs, some were supplied by Bill Ricca (military surplus) and some from Wolff. I'm thinking of getting the Chromium Silicon springs from Wolff since I heard they are awesome as magazine springs.

Corrosion Protection Products for Rifles, Shooting, Benchrest Competition, Varminting and Firearms Storage

I would not use cigar boxes for anything but cigars. MANY types of packaging paper & cardboard have high acid content; under the right conditions, even the vapor emitted by these products could damage your guns. Only use boxes made for gun storage. (Or, use gun socks.)

VPI is rarely necessary. You should be using either a Goldenrod or a can of dessicant inside your safe to keep humidity low. And, your safe should be somewhere that it is not exposed to large temperature fluctuations.

The Robert's Arms Specialties boxes, Protecta-gun , are relatively inexpensive, and are great way to store pistols in a gun safe. They come with an end label, and he offers two types of wrapping paper. The cardboard boxes stack neatly in a safe, and offer some additional protection in case of a fire.
The large auto perfectly fits the 1911, P.38, 4" Luger, and similar size pistols.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Neal Myers

I would not use cigar boxes for anything but cigars. MANY types of packaging paper & cardboard have high acid content; under the right conditions, even the vapor emitted by these products could damage your guns. Only use boxes made for gun storage. (Or, use gun socks.)

---

I use wooden cigar boxes (and yes I know they were intended to hold moisture, which is why I dry them out first) lined with a protective paper used to wrap automotive parts. I have used this setup for several years and had only one rusting issue with one pistol the entire time. I also check them regularly.

Thanks to Johnny Peppers post, I may take an inventory of what I have and look into protect-a-gun. I am sure I can use the cigar boxes to store other things.

Speaking of which, how would one handle the storage of additional magazines for the pistols using these boxes? Or just in general? I would like to try to keep the mags together if possible and labeled if not.

Quote:

---

VPI is rarely necessary. You should be using either a Goldenrod or a can of desiccant inside your safe to keep humidity low. And, your safe should be somewhere that it is not exposed to large temperature fluctuations.

---

I some desiccant inside my primary safe, a 60-watt bulb in the general area running all the time, a fan to move air around, and a dehumidifier set to 45%. Plus the room itself is a heated basement so no temperature issues.
In my little universe, the VPI is cheap extra insurance.

I remove the grips and coat it with Vaseline. Won't damage anything and leaves your hands soft with an odor your wife won't mind. If you are really concerned, drop it in the kitchen oven for a few minutes and melt the Vaseline a bit. I’ve stored a Colt .380 like this for 20 years with no problem. The price is right as well.

Why not melt a pot of Vaseline to dip the pistol in rather than baking the pistol? Better yet, why not just use a good preservative oil? The Vaseline plus the baking must be hell on wooden grips.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Johnny Peppers

Why not melt a pot of Vaseline to dip the pistol in rather than baking the pistol? Better yet, why not just use a good preservative oil? The Vaseline plus the baking must be hell on wooden grips.

---

It's inexpensive, non toxic, available everywhere and works very well. No drips, no over spray and cleans up easily. Baking is an option for long term storage, but not required. I suggested removing the grips, read the post. The guy that recommended to me has been using it since WWII. I'd describe it as working much like a heavy grease or cosmoline without some of the problems associated with them.

I'd suggest not dipping the gun in a pot of vasoline or a pot of "good preservative oil". Why so negative? Give it a try first before you judge, you might like it!

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by bczandm

It's inexpensive, non toxic, available everywhere and works very well. No drips, no over spray and cleans up easily. Baking is an option for long term storage, but not required. I suggested removing the grips, read the post. The guy that recommended to me has been using it since WWII. I'd describe it as working much like a heavy grease or cosmoline without some of the problems associated with them.

I'd suggest not dipping the gun in a pot of vasoline or a pot of "good preservative oil". Why so negative? Give it a try first before you judge, you might like it!

---

When it comes to protecting valuable firearms, finding something inexpensive is just not a concern. Wiping a pistol down with a preservative oil doesn't create any over spray nor any drips. Wiping something down with Vaseline certainly is messy.
I would never bake a firearm of any kind in an oven. Just because someone else has used it since WWII doesn't mean that it is superior to just a wipe down with an oily rag.
If the Vaseline is so good, what is wrong with dipping a pistol in a pot of it, as it is very inexpensive. Also I didn't suggest dipping a pistol in a pot of preservative oil.
If you want a good preservative for long term storage, try LPS 3. It contains wax in suspension, and when wiped on the wax hardens. It can easily be removed with any gun oil when the pistol is taken out of storage.

LPS 3 is good stuff, but the mfg only suggests it for storage up to 2 years indoors. Their words, not mine.

FWIW, price was only one consideration in my last post.

Bottom line is that it works for some of us. My buddy has used it for 1000's of Lugers for 65 years or so. It works for him and it works well for me.

There's more than one way to skin a cat, this one works for me for longer term storage. I also use LPS 3, Triflow, WD40 and others. There are many other good solutions as well.

Johnny,

I have been using those boxes as well with the double side paper he offers. Does the VPI paper offer any benefit over what I am using?

Regards,
Pat

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Johnny Peppers

If you are worried about shooting a collectible pistol, the finish will wear off before you begin to have mechanical problems because you didn't change a recoil spring. John Browning designed the pistol to function with a 15/16# recoil spring, so anything any stronger is just for your own amusement.
As far as storage, I have used the Robert's Arms Specialties boxes for years with a sheet of Brownell's VPI paper, and have never had any issues. The pistol is always wiped down with a thin coat of light preservative oil just to remove fingerprints.

https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo.../30ldrbp-1.jpg

---

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by pdawg1911

Johnny,

I have been using those boxes as well with the double side paper he offers. Does the VPI paper offer any benefit over what I am using?

Regards,
Pat

---

I still have some pistols wrapped in the double sided paper (kraft paper that is plastic coated on one side) from the first boxes I bought from Bob more than a few years ago. I have never had a problem using either paper, and I live where it is very humid. I often wondered how the plastic would react in case of a fire even though the boxed pistols are in a gun safe.
The VPI paper was not expensive, and just gives a bit of extra protection.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by bczandm

LPS 3 is good stuff, but the mfg only suggests it for storage up to 2 years indoors. Their words, not mine.

---

Just out of curiosity, how long does Vaseline suggest it lasts for storage?

As an added note, the 1911A1 military pistols were dipped in a preservative oil, allowed to drain for 5 minutes, and wrapped in oil proof paper per military specifications when shipped new from the manufacturer.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Johnny Peppers

Just out of curiosity, how long does Vaseline suggest it lasts for storage?

As an added note, the 1911A1 military pistols were dipped in a preservative oil, allowed to drain for 5 minutes, and wrapped in oil proof paper per military specifications when shipped new from the manufacturer.

---

Ok, OK, OK. You are right. The guys that used it for 65 years are wrong.

Remember Johnny..."A mind only works when it is open". Don't fear trying something new.

Why are you so eager to bash my post? I just don't get it. You have not even tried it and you are shooting it down, why?

Best Regards,

Bob

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by bczandm

Ok, OK, OK. You are right. The guys that used it for 65 years are wrong.

Remember Johnny..."A mind only works when it is open". Don't fear trying something new.

Why are you so eager to bash my post? I just don't get it. You have not even tried it and you are shooting it down, why?

Best Regards,

Bob

---

I didn't say anyone was wrong. Since you informed me that LPS was advertised as being good for only 2 years, I only ask how long Vaseline was advertised as lasting. Isn't that a fair question?
I have a very open mind, but I won't be baking any Vaseline coated pistols in the oven. Does that make me closed minded? I wouldn't put up with the mess of breaking pistols down and removing grips just to use a messy coating when other things work as well or better without cooking the pistol.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Johnny Peppers

I didn't say anyone was wrong. Since you informed me that LPS was advertised as being good for only 2 years, I only ask how long Vaseline was advertised as lasting. Isn't that a fair question?
I have a very open mind, but I won't be baking any Vaseline coated pistols in the oven. Does that make me closed minded? I wouldn't put up with the mess of breaking pistols down and removing grips just to use a messy coating when other things work as well or better without cooking the pistol.

---

As you already know from the other thread you were involved with this spring, cosmoline and vasoline are chemically very close. Seems you didn't like the suggestion then either! Cosmoline has been used by our military and countless others. I think it's been proven.
I think we can both agree that it time for this thread to die. I'll give ya the last word here on the board, :surrender: and feel free to PM me if you have other questions or comments. I do appreciate the comments and will dust off the can of LPS 3.
BTW, I do appreciate your wealth of knowledge on the 1911's and your comments, I've learned quite a bit lurking here over the years.
While we might disagree on the vasoline issue, we can at least agree on one of the best pistols ever made.
Bob

If it means anything, I don't use cosmoline either.