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Hi All,
I know I'm asking for the impossible but does any one have some drawings for the barrel vice and tool that you would need to remove an LE No4 barrel.:sos:
Even better would be the real deal, but I know thats impossible to find!!
I would be very pleased if some one coul help me out on this one!!
Thanks upfront,:thup:
If you hunt around on surplusrifle.com, you will find an article describing rebarrelling a Lee Enfield. There are photos of the tools used for this article. These are not the ones used originally, but are the sort gunsmiths routinely use.
Hi Tiriag,
Thanks for the advise!!
I will take an thourough search through the site (and hope I will find the article).
The action wrench is available from brownells for not too much money. They have an assortment of barrel vices, but you can make your own if you have access to some shop equipment.
Of course, the viability of any of this depends on how many rifles you are going to do. I bought my wrench about 8 years back and am happy I did.
Note that if you are going to rebarrel sniper rifles, you have to desolder and remove the front pad to use the action wrench.
Did you get your barrel replaced? I've got the same project. Nobody seems to want to do it for me.
You could send it to Brian Dick at BDL Ltd. One of his specialities is Enfields.
That's right...Brian Dick will take care of in a heartbeat...
I got one from this guy a few years ago. It works fine. Barrel vice Action wrench
Gentleman,
Could you please let me know what other tools would be necessary to perform rebarrelling with used barrel in better condition?
Regards
B.
Why oh why resurrect such an old thread? Why not start fresh?
You need a barrel wrench and vise. You need a good set of blocks to hold and not slip. I've done them without issue in my bench vise and the blocks were made by me by hand out of thick aluminum bar stock. I've unscrewed several barrels without issue and assembled some too, but we all have stories of the ones that were twisted into corkscrew. Custom making a barrel block gives you a better product than buying something at someone's say so that it will work... Also you need some experience...headspacing gauges and spare bolt heads...
OP is 11 years old.
You need a barrel vice, a proper action wrench and a big mallet(a 4 foot long 2" Al bar works really well). Plus a solid work bench with a 4" machinist's vice bolted onto it.
"...twisted into corkscrew..." That'd be the receiver when you use the incorrect tool for the action. You turn the receiver, not the barrel.
I said that...Quote:
Originally Posted by Sunray
Apparently you weren't there when that happened...the receiver was being turned and the barrel was being held captive...next guess...?Quote:
Originally Posted by Sunray
"...receiver was being turned and the barrel was being held captive..." Which is what "You turn the receiver, not the barrel." means. English you second language?
BAR speaks the truth. I've seen it once too. I had one sent here after a good butchering using a bench vice, unmodified Brownell's wrench and Lord only knows how long of a breaker bar. and/or hammer. When i looked down the bore, I thought it was my eyes going or an optical illusion. He'd definitely converted the rifling to a faster twist rate in a very unconventional way! In my humble experience, unless you have a custom or original military wrench and vice blocks made for the Knox form/reinforce, don't do it. There will be one that defeats you eventually and you'll probably wreck the rifle in the process. I had another one sent here several years ago that a guy sprung the body by unscrewing it from the barrel with a bar down through the mag well. Imagine that. He'd also turned the shoulder on a lathe a full turn to install the barrel for tighter headspace, (I swear on a stack of bibles it's true). It was a 1943 LB Mk.1* and when the bolt was retracted the bolt head would pop out of the cut on the right hand rail every time. It had me stumped so I called an Armourer we all know and love from the UK who immediately told me what the problem was, (bless his heart!). He knew immediately what the problem was. Another scrap body for the bin and a nice, matching rifle relegated to the sum of useable parts that were left over. Never try to remove a body without a slave bolt and bolt head less the extractor.
Just out of curiosity, I wanted to see how much dead pull it would take to unscrew a barrel from a wrecked No. 4. I mean truly wrecked, the barrel and receiver were worthless. Clamped up the receiver, and applied a 3' pipe wrench to the Knox form. Let go with a bang with me hanging on the end of the wrench. That was in excess of 600ft pounds.
Any time I want to remove an unserviceable barrel from a No. 4, I cut a relief groove just in front of the receiver ring.
I had a wrench made for an Arisaka then adapted it to work on a No.4 with the small insert clamped between the jaws. Worked pretty good just to swap some things around.Attachment 94509
Like I said, you don't seem to know what you're talking about.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sunray