Questions about my M-1

Ok so i bought my Garand for 350 dollars about 9 months ago. Here are the pics of the gun. But what i am wondering is the numbers on the gun i was looking for the year it was made and it says it was made in 1943. It is group number 147#### on the receiver. The bolt and trigger the bolt number is d28287-18sa and under that is b4a. I cant get to the trigger but i think its d28289 with d-4a. The barrel is stamped s-a-8-50. The gun was owned by a man that shoots national matches. Well it was his sons and he needed the money. But i don't know if this is one of his match guns his son was in bad need of money and I just came out on top. And the stock is numbered 2455261. Any insight on this gun and the numbers would be nice. I just want to know how old it is. And what is your input on the rifle. Another question is what is the best hand load for a M-1.

Hand loads are in the reloading books and that's the best way to work. If you take info that other people preach from the top of their head you don't know what you're getting. Reliable reloading component companies have liabilities to worry about. They won't steer you wrong.

The serial number of the gun tells what year it was made in but you seem to have that. Besides, you haven't given quite enough number to tell what month. The date on the barrel is Korean war rebuild but that's not unusual. If it's a national match gun then the barrel is going to be marked NM among other parts. The pics don't really show that much, but the rifle appears servicable. If the sum total of parts were priced out then you got a good deal.

I will also get the new pics up as soon as I get to the house. I am about to do some work to the gun. I am looking at putting a new barrel on it national match, a national match sight, scope mount and a muzzle brake. All this will be new from Fulton armory. Also putting a synthetic stocks.

Muzzle looks bad. Serial numbers on stock indicates a Danish rifle. Brought in by CMP 7-8 years ago. Sounds like a shooter to me. Good price.

Many Garand shooters use 46-48 grains of IMR4895 over a 150 grain bullet.
If you use other powders, make sure the burn rate is similar to 4895.
Why are you replacing the barrel?

Have you gotten any estimates? I have a M-1 with a barrel as loose as yours, and it will shoot into a 4 inch circle at 100 yards with ease. Have you shopped around for the best deal you can find? For barrels and stock sets, CMP is where I would go, for gunsmithing I don't know who is best. I love working on this sort of stuff, and do it myself, but I haven't changed a barrel yet. All the info one needs can be found on the net. You could end up with a real decent rifle, with only a new stock, and maybe a re-park job. Have you shot it yet?

Charlie

I have shot the weapon and it shoots good. When i shot it before i bought it i could hit a 4" circle at 200yds with out a problem. The barrel is only going to cost me 275 dollars for a national match. That is why i am going to change it. The Stock is only going to cost me 65 dollars. I am looking for a gun that i can go to matches with and shoot -.5 moa and win. That is why i am going to do all this. Thanks for the info on the powder. I will have the other photos up as soon as i get to the house and and break the gun down.

If you Garand will hold a 4" group at 200 yards, don't change a thing. In fact, if it were my gun, I wouldn't even un-latch the trigger guard.
You will never find an M1 that will shoot .5 moa.

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Originally Posted by Devil Dog

If you Garand will hold a 4" group at 200 yards, don't change a thing. In fact, if it were my gun, I wouldn't even un-latch the trigger guard.
You will never find an M1 that will shoot .5 moa.

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It will I will load some rounds and go to the range and shoot and put the pics upload the pics as soon i get the loads done. Well i have un-latched the trigger to clean the rifle but that is it. What do you think about putting a new stock on it. I just want to so that so i can hunt with the gun and not worry about the stock getting damaged.

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Originally Posted by FishinMarine09

It will I will load some rounds and go to the range and shoot and put the pics upload the pics as soon i get the loads done. Well i have un-latched the trigger to clean the rifle but that is it. What do you think about putting a new stock on it. I just want to so that so i can hunt with the gun and not worry about the stock getting damaged.

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Well, we'll have to wait for the pics, but why not hunt with the stock that's on it, and put the new stock on for match shooting? Are you going to try and refinish your stock?

I have a rifle with a new Criterion barrel, and it isn't much better than the one I have with the loose muzzle. Of course I'm not a great shot, either. If I had it to do over, I would not have spent the money. It sounds like the guy you got it from knew it was a good shooter, esp. if he used it in matches. I think you got a super deal on it!
CXharlie

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Originally Posted by Charlie59

Well, we'll have to wait for the pics, but why not hunt with the stock that's on it, and put the new stock on for match shooting? Are you going to try and refinish your stock?

I have a rifle with a new Criterion barrel, and it isn't much better than the one I have with the loose muzzle. Of course I'm not a great shot, either. If I had it to do over, I would not have spent the money. It sounds like the guy you got it from knew it was a good shooter, esp. if he used it in matches. I think you got a super deal on it!
CXharlie

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Thanks bud, yeah i am going to the range soon. My shoot partner and I are heading up to his farm soon so we can shoot 1000yds with his Styer. And that is where I am going to put my rifle to the test. I shoot pretty good for the exp I have I am only 23 and with my Bolt rifles I shoot -.5 moa at 100. My stock on the M-1 is in amazing shape I might refinish it but I dont know just yet. The reason i want the new stock for hunting is if I fall or something i wont hurt the wood.

Again thanks
Randy.

You have asked a lot of questions, and are getting a lot of info. Let me add my two cents.

Do not be overly concerned with rifle/part numbers matching. Most all Garands went through a field or regular armory sometime in their lives so original parts are few ...if not, a rare bird indeed!

As for best load, first of all, make sure you do not overload for the Garand. Start at a minimum or medium load and work slowly up or down to get the best groups at the range. The Op-Rod is what you want to protect....I load everything for my M1's and I want to keep the pressure and velocity down so that I get good groups at all distances, 200-600yds. I use primarily 147-150gr bullets and work on my loads carefully, using a chronograph as I cannot test pressures. When I look at loading books, I look for books that have loads specifically for match shooting. The Accurate manual used to have a section toward the end specifically for match rounds. For the M1, I try for muzzle velocities well under 2700 fps. Remember, each new lot of powder, primers, and brass require a back to basics testing. Also, after each test load, I watch primer and brass for issues.

As you are not really clear on what use or purpose you intend for your rifle, I am not sure what to say further. If your intent is to shoot CMP style matches, then you should read the rule book. Many of the changes that you mention would disqualify you (muzzlebreak, synthetic stock, scope mount). Changing a barrel to a national match grade if you are not looking to be a CMP NM shooter, seems a bit like over kill.

If you are looking to go to F-CLASS, again look at the rule book. I am questioning the reason for a muzzle break? A synthetic stock is nice, but again for what purpose? Often they are much lighter than their wood counterparts, and you will get hammered in recoil.

In either case, if you are looking for info on match shooting with your M1, consider talking veteran shooters at a CMP match. Most of the seasoned veterans have been there and done it, so you will not have to reinvent the wheel.

As both a CMP match shooter and hunter, I use different rifles for each job. I consider my match rifles finely tuned instruments that I carefully take to the range. My hunting rifles, on the other hand, while I value them dearly and take care of them, I know full well that they might get dropped, banged around, etc. While I suppose that I could, I do not take any match gun into the woods.

Hope this helps.

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Originally Posted by hipowershooter

You have asked a lot of questions, and are getting a lot of info. Let me add my two cents.

Do not be overly concerned with rifle/part numbers matching. Most all Garands went through a field or regular armory sometime in their lives so original parts are few ...if not, a rare bird indeed!

As for best load, first of all, make sure you do not overload for the Garand. Start at a minimum or medium load and work slowly up or down to get the best groups at the range. The Op-Rod is what you want to protect....I load everything for my M1's and I want to keep the pressure and velocity down so that I get good groups at all distances, 200-600yds. I use primarily 147-150gr bullets and work on my loads carefully, using a chronograph as I cannot test pressures. When I look at loading books, I look for books that have loads specifically for match shooting. The Accurate manual used to have a section toward the end specifically for match rounds. For the M1, I try for muzzle velocities well under 2700 fps. Remember, each new lot of powder, primers, and brass require a back to basics testing. Also, after each test load, I watch primer and brass for issues.

As you are not really clear on what use or purpose you intend for your rifle, I am not sure what to say further. If your intent is to shoot CMP style matches, then you should read the rule book. Many of the changes that you mention would disqualify you (muzzlebreak, synthetic stock, scope mount). Changing a barrel to a national match grade if you are not looking to be a CMP NM shooter, seems a bit like over kill.

If you are looking to go to F-CLASS, again look at the rule book. I am questioning the reason for a muzzle break? A synthetic stock is nice, but again for what purpose? Often they are much lighter than their wood counterparts, and you will get hammered in recoil.

In either case, if you are looking for info on match shooting with your M1, consider talking veteran shooters at a CMP match. Most of the seasoned veterans have been there and done it, so you will not have to reinvent the wheel.

As both a CMP match shooter and hunter, I use different rifles for each job. I consider my match rifles finely tuned instruments that I carefully take to the range. My hunting rifles, on the other hand, while I value them dearly and take care of them, I know full well that they might get dropped, banged around, etc. While I suppose that I could, I do not take any match gun into the woods.

Hope this helps.

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Thanks man this helps a lot. I will look at the rule books and see what they say. This is a very insightful post and i appreciate it a lot from you and all the other members on here. All of you are great people.:beerchug:

Ok so here is what i have figured out on about my gun. It is Danish from what I can gather. The reason i say this is the sticker that is inside the stock is all Danish writing and words. So here are the numbers.

The op rod # D35382-9-SA length is 23 almost 5/8.
Barrel # d653544a-37-MC-2and there is a M stamped also and maybe a K and on the side of the barrel is SA 8-50
Receiver # A 4 and below that is D28291-14-SA
Trigger housing# D28290-14-SA
And the trigger group dosent match but hey i got a good bit of matching numbers in the gun. About the barrel is the 8-50 is that the date.

Thanks Randy.

Yes, 8-50 is the date. Nice looking rifle; you got a great deal!! Anxious to see the pics of the targets. Wish I could shoot like that!!

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Originally Posted by AlReiter

Yes, 8-50 is the date. Nice looking rifle; you got a great deal!! Anxious to see the pics of the targets. Wish I could shoot like that!!

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The only reason i can shoot like that my dad pounded it it my head that i should shoot right if i plan on getting shot at. If you know what i mean. I am in the process of becoming a Marine. And another thing he taught me was not to jerk the trigger i got smacked in thee back of the head for that. lol. Thanks on the date also. There is another gun on here that posted a gun with the same serial number on the barrel and it had the same lot numbers. But how mine is a d28290-14 his was a 19. Just pretty amazing that they are that close together.

Hope yall like. Here is the link M1 Garand pictures by FishinMarine09 - Photobucket

Very nice!! Thanks for the pics.

You have gotten some good words to think about here. As others have said you need to figure out what you want to do with the Garand. If it is match shooting understand that the vast majority of Garand shooters now compete in John C. Garand matches only. The competitions have very strict rules as to rifle modifications as they are intended to be as issued and eliminate the rat race of match grade this and match grade that parts. If you do make modifications most likely you will have to shoot in the high power class of match rifle, service rifle if the Ref doen't know what to look for. You will have to compete with other Garand shooters in this class as everything else on the line will eat your lunch and only by fluke will you ever come close to winning a match.

The best you can get to with a Garand in match rifle configuration is 1 MOA or just a tad under and that is with a very large amount of money, time, and practice and it will not last long. It is next to impossible to keep a Garand tuned to 1 MOA for more than a few hundred rounds and then you have to go about retuning it just to have it spread out again there are always exceptions. You can replace the barrel with a good quality though I question the quality of a $ 275.00 “match grade” barrel. Find someone that knows exactly what they are doing and have them stone your trigger group out to produce a clean two stage pull that breaks like glass at 4.5 pounds min. This does a great deal in making groups get smaller. If you can get it to settle in at 2 MOA or just under and stay there then grin a lot. Your best bet before changing any parts is to slowly work up a hand load the rifle loves.

I really think stock fit (bedding) has more to do w/ Garand accuracy than barrels (within reason). If the stock is glass bedded already, don't remove the action from the wood unless absolutely required! If it just fits well w/o bedding, then its not quite so important to leave assembled, but its still not a good idea to pull the rifle apart more than you have to. In either case, when the rifle isn't being used for a while you might consider just opening the trigger guard to relieve pressure on the wood, but some won't even do this to avoid potential zero changes. Back in the fifties/sixties some top shooters would not pull apart their rifle for the entire season unless it either quit shooting well (time for a complete rebuild!) or something broke.

If it shoots 2 MOA or better, don't mess w/ it! You're just as apt to be worse off than when when you started, unless you're into spending cubic money.

I'm also very skeptical about any sort of advertising of guaranteed accuracy claims. There is no way anyone can do that, with all the variables on the shooters end. Getting a group down from six inches to 3 is one thing, getting the same group to the size where you can cover it with a nickel is quite another. I can shoot a particular rifle one day and have a six inch group, and the next week it's under three. The biggest ingredient in accuracy is shooter skill. Learning the correct technique takes time-more for some shooters than others. I've seen over and over, someone at the range with a new gun shoot it for the first time, complain about it not being all that accurate, and then say they're going to get it worked on. And many times this is based on a handful of shots. Not counting sight adjustments, I try several types of ammo, over several trips to the range before I consider doing anything in the way of gunsmithing to a rifle.

Everyone does realize that the accuracy standard for a "depot rebuilt" M1 was 6 MOA or less using standard M2 Ball ammunition.

I have a garand (1943) sa with an non original stock. of all the stocks i have this is the best looking wood i own. the letters in 1/2 inch block on left side of butt where your check goes are R R A D (the A is a upside down V) Iknow it is at least 1992 or earlier. I will try to send pics but hope some one can answer w/out. thanx

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Originally Posted by DaveN

I have a garand (1943) sa with an non original stock. of all the stocks i have this is the best looking wood i own. the letters in 1/2 inch block on left side of butt where your check goes are R R A D (the A is a upside down V) Iknow it is at least 1992 or earlier. I will try to send pics but hope some one can answer w/out. thanx

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I don't understand your question. What is the date on the barrel? I have a rifle like this, too.

C.

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Originally Posted by DaveN

I have a garand (1943) sa with an non original stock. of all the stocks i have this is the best looking wood i own. the letters in 1/2 inch block on left side of butt where your check goes are R R A D (the A is a upside down V) Iknow it is at least 1992 or earlier. I will try to send pics but hope some one can answer w/out. thanx

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Dave, If your question is, "What does R.R.A.D. mean?" The answer is "Red River Army Depot" (Texarkana, TX). R.R.A.D. is a common rebuild stamp. HTH, KarlKW