-
Authentic? My No.5 carbine gets naked....
-
For my little knowing on that it seems to be authentic. The grooves around the chamber are as far as i know a typical sign for the No.5. But i am sure that there be some very experienced guys out there wich knows it much better than i will.
Regards
Gunner.
-
I have seen one or two stripped bare and I'd say that yours is as original as it gets!
On the basis that they're not rare or valuable (?), just get it degreased, bead blasted, phosphated and painted with sunkorite to FTR condition. Grease it up and keep it.
-
Quote:
Originally Posted by
Peter Laidler
I have seen one or two stripped bare and I'd say that yours is as original as it gets!
On the basis that they're not rare or valuable (?), just get it degreased, bead blasted, phosphated and painted with sunkorite to FTR condition. Grease it up and keep it.
Thank you sir! Since we can't get Suncorite here, I'll have to use something else. The Eastwood Company offers several different kinds of black automotive paints for chassis and underhood parts, I'm sure they've got something that'll do.
-
2 Attachment(s)
Front of trigger guard should look like this one...
Sight should be numbered to 8..
Wish I owned one ! I bought my son a #5 for Xmas a few years ago..should have kept it for myself ! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DrCbxz9NEDY
-
Quote:
Originally Posted by
rattrod30
Front of trigger guard should look like this one...
Sight should be numbered to 8..
Wish I owned one ! I bought my son a #5 for Xmas a few years ago..should have kept it for myself !
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DrCbxz9NEDY
Thanks RR! Got it! Got the 800yd. sight too, but bought that after the rifle....it was missing.
https://www.milsurps.com/images/imported/deleted.gif
-
I think you're mad. The finish looks fine, markings are clear, why not just thoroughly clean it, oil it and keep it authentic, rather than messing it up with some spray paint.
It looks like a really mice specimine.
-
Quote:
Originally Posted by
tbonesmith
I think you're mad. The finish looks fine, markings are clear, why not just thoroughly clean it, oil it and keep it authentic, rather than messing it up with some spray paint.
It looks like a really mice specimine.
At this moment, that's exactly my plan. I've read that original white Go-Jo Hand Cleaner is good for scrubbing grimy stocks. It'll get the grease and crud off, but is gentle enough to not hurt the finish. With some brushes, it should clean up the action well too. Finish off with soap and hot water, blow dry with compressed air and a space heater, then spray the metal parts with CLP.
This is actually my most "correct" milsurp, so I'm not going to jump into refinishing it. I only asked about the Fairtrimmer's because I'm not sure how it'll work on Birch. Blast and repaint? :dunno: Eh, ain't there yet. :rolleyes:
-
Clean the stock, then rub in Linseed oil, "pure" boiled variety is preferred. That's how it was done by the original "owners".
-
My No5 is just a few months younger than yours, #Z982X. All markings are near identical other than the backsight.
I would not refinish that rifle, clean and oil. Preservation not restoration.:thup:
Tom's gunstock wax is an excellent stock conditioner, a mix of BLO, turp and bees wax.
-
I have a few all original #5's and wouldnt mess with em for the world. A couple years ago I got a "parts" #5 from Southern Ohio Gun with a really nice bore, unbelievably. I restored it with all the original parts that were needed including the flash hider. Installed a S&K insta-mount and went hunting with it. So far got 2 Bucks three coyotes and a woodchuck all with home cast bullets. It's a real fun-gun!!
-
Question re No.5s
I am rather new to the milsurp game, I have heard and read several comments about "wandering zero" with the number 5s. I would like to ask those of you with experience is this fact or myth? thanks GRF
-
I've only had a couple, one I glass bedded and put upward pressure at the centre/only band. That rifle shot 5 shot groups of 2 inches at 200m with 125 gn projectiles and a light charge of fast powder, and the zero didn't wander at all. The one I've got now is bedded in standard configuration(in wood, floating forward of the knox) and it groups signifacantly bigger, about 5 or 6 inches at 200m, but zero doesn't shift appreciably, if at all.
-
-
rondog, thats looking good, fine work. How about a bit of Suncorite for the metal to make it looking perfect?
Regards
Gunner
-
Quote:
Originally Posted by
gunner
rondog, thats looking good, fine work. How about a bit of Suncorite for the metal to make it looking perfect?
Regards
Gunner
Thanks Gunner! But, I consider taking an old rifle with history and personality, then just cleaning it up, similar to taking an old WWII veteran soldier and just putting him in a new WWII uniform. The history and personality is still there, just looks a little better.
Completely restoring an old rifle to perfect as-new condition with no dents, scratches or imperfections, that's like taking a 20 year old kid and dressing him up in all new stuff to look like a brand-new WWII soldier just heading off to the war. All the "flavor" gets lost.
That's just my opinion, anyway. Besides, we can't get Suncorite here in the US. And I can always repaint it later, if I change my mind. If I jump in now and do it, I'll probably regret it. Besides, I'm lazy. :rolleyes:
-
rondog,
you`re consistently, i`ll respect your point of view. Normaly it is like my way. I did it only at one of my LE`s because it had rust on the barrel and the action. It looks good but the history is gone.
Regards
Gunner
