Inherited 1917-help new guy

:wave:Lost my dad and was left a 1917 enfield that he had sporterized.
Dad was a machinest but also a little impatient with some things.
For example.The front trigger guard screw is the wrong length.Wich means his stock will have to be fixed after replacement.
This rifle will also need a barrel b4 im content."very deep pitting.
1.Whats the length of the front barrel screw suppose to be?Would rather replace it.It has the curved trigger guard.Is there a current production screw thatll work?I dont mind bluing it.
2.I've had a terrible time finding barrel info.Like who will do the work and how much.contacted numrich and brownells with no reply:beerchug:

Springfield Sporters has all parts. You have a curved triggerguard? Standard issue. New barrels are around, but expensive. CMP has/had M1917 issue style barrels. Good luck.

Chuckindenver can do the barrel work, and his prices are good.

He's a member here and you can send him a PM for details if you're interested.

Rebuilding it sounds like it could cost more than buying one outright. You may wan to just leave it as is and enjoy it as a shooter.

yes it has the new trigger guard.It just bugs me that his rifle needs repair.
another reason for a barrel is the the headspace is horrible!

headspace on a 17 or 14 should be checked with no cocking assembly installed, and no extractor.
depending on the maker of the gauge as well.

thanks chuck it was a local guy i removed extracter b4 handing him rifle. not sure on type of gauge.cocking and pin were still in tact though.

oops double post

After you get everything else ready you may want to try it at the range before you worry too much about the pitting.

Pitting wont normally affect your accuracy, it will just mean you have to do a little more in-depth cleaning every once in awhile to clean em out as they will tend to fill with jacket material and powder residue.

Shoot her and if your not keyholing and within 4 or 5 MOA I would keep it as is and shoot her, I have a rifle with a barrel that looks like the surface of the moon and it shoots just fine, always shoots within minute of liberal or minute of deer:D

As to the headspace, its really tricky on this rifle, you need to completely strip the bolt and slowly walk it forward and watch the bolt handle fall, if its a hair off from bottoming with a FIELD REJECT gage (not a no-go gage), its good to go on headspace (I prefer Clymer gages over Forester gages) .

I would recommend buying your own Field Reject gage and checking it yourself, there are lots of "gunsmiths" out there that are not, lets say, proficient in the proper procedure.

These rifle do tend to be pretty generous on the headspace, I have an Eddystone that appears to have very minimal use since build (my pop bought it in 61 for 12 bucks, along with the other 9 in the case - wish he would have kept more than one) that almost fails the Field gage. It shoots great and brass is well within spec after firing.

But if you really really need to buy a new barrel, and you cant buy at the CMP or the CMP is out of barrels you have two choices.
1) Gun Auctions and look for pulled barrels or WWII replacement barrels
2) Contact Criterion and get one from them, they are the ones making the CMP barrels so they should have all the contours and timing already on spec.

If all else fails give me a scream and I will give you a basic contour and timing from a new Criterion barrel that I have sitting in the gun room (its for my Remington, just been too lazy to put it on yet).

The trigger guard, you mention that it has the curved guard, that's stock. Are you looking to return the rifle to USGI specs or are you just keeping it sporterized? If it has a Sporter stock and not just a reworked M1917 stock then you probably need a flat trigger guard.

A picture of the trigger guard and the bottom of the stock where it mounts would help, but if you need a flattened trigger guard we can find you a source for them, not too hard to find.

Now by "front barrel screw" do you mean the front trigger guard screw? If so its easy to get from Springfield Sporters or Gun Parts Corp

Help us out with these couple questions and I am more than sure we can hook you up with the parts and services that you want.

Dan

yes front trigger gaurd screw is to long.About 1/4" and its not original as it doesnt fit into the trigger guard recess.As for the barrel being heavily pitted.
That just bugs me as theres no way i could get it clean clean and then to shoot it in each time after cleaning ,dont know doesnt sound like fun and maybe i expect to much.Dad also chopped it down to 21" with a hacksaw and then recrowned with(i dont know).AS for curved trigger guard,it doesnt bother me.thanx for reply dan.:beerchug:

Very important you do not force the wrong screw into the front guard position! Easy to crack the steel receiver witha wrong guard screw. Springfield Sporters has correct screws for cheap. Good luck.

The dimensions for the P14/M17 Guard Screws are::

Front----- OA length 1.04“,, shoulder to tip 0.92”

Rear------OA length 1.88“,, shoulder to tip 1.77”

Both
Head dia. 0.34”
Shank dia. 0.25”
Threads 30 treads per inch

So it is a ¼ x 30 screw or bolt.


The P14/M17 has two guard screw/stock bushing,, a front and a rear.

Front
length------ 0.465”
Outside dia.-0.42”
Inside dia.---0.342”

Rear
length------1.161”
Outside dia.-0.34”
Inside dia.---0.283”

This information comes from a copy of the Ordnance Drawings provided by Nicolaus Associates, Eric put them together in a nice book.

45B20

thats good stuff!!Kind of info i need.As i understand some of these came with
fertrules(pillars)for the action.Ill have to replace these as well.
Screws will be on order shortly.
along with some steel ferrrules ill use to pillar bed.
Does anyone know what the barrel dimension at the reciever is suppose to be?
Just wondering what a cmp barrel would look like if things have been changed to much.
The barrel thats on it is setting at.1.315:beerchug: