:sos:
Picked up an old cruddy cosmolene caked No1 Mk4 today. Starting to disassemble and clean so I can see what I got.
Looks like I need a striker removal tool. Where can I get one?
Are there also any other special tools I will need?
Thanks
Kevin
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:sos:
Picked up an old cruddy cosmolene caked No1 Mk4 today. Starting to disassemble and clean so I can see what I got.
Looks like I need a striker removal tool. Where can I get one?
Are there also any other special tools I will need?
Thanks
Kevin
Hi .. :)
Perhaps download a complete set of manuals for the Lee Enfield, which includes operating and armourer's maintenance instructions.
The manuals may be found in the Technical Articles for Milsurp Collectors and Re-loaders (click here)
2002 No.4 (All Marks) .303 Rifle Manuals (click here)
Complete Set includes:
- 2002 No.4 (All Marks) .303 Rifle Data Summary
- 2002 No.4 (All Marks) .303 Rifle Parts Identification List
- 2002 No.4 (All Marks) .303 Rifle Operating Instructions
- 2002 No.4 (All Marks) .303 Rifle Equipment Description
- 2002 No.4 (All Marks) .303 Rifle Maintenance Instructions
1991 No.4 (All Marks) .303 Rifle Manuals (click here)
Complete Set includes:
- 1991 No.4 (All Marks) .303 Rifle Operating Instructions
- 1991 No.4 (All Marks) .303 Rifle Maintenance Instructions
Note: The difference between the 1991 set of No.4 Manuals and 2002 No.4 (All Marks) .303 Rifle Manuals, is that the 1991 manual contains armourer's information on how to properly "bed" the No.4 rifle, whereas the newer 2002 manual does not.
Hope this helps... :)
Regards,
Badger
I'm not sure if you have a No.4 Mark 1 or a No.1 Mark 3 from your description.
Either way they use the same striker removal tool. Try bdlltd.com
Here's my method: How to make and use a Lee Enfield striker removing tool.
Before you start: Unscrew the locking screw on the cocking piece. This is there to stop the striker unscrewing, and needs to come out 1st of all.
Unscrew the bolt head. Look in at the striker, you will see by the light of a torch that the striker has two flats. Those you need to grip with a tubular spanner, which you can make for free:
A. Get an old golf club with a tapered metal shaft. This is the toughest, springiest metal tube money can buy
B. Slice off a length of the diameter which will just fit inside the L E bolt. Use a Dremel, the hacksaw will have difficulty with this steel
C. Grind two points which will go down alongside the two flats of the striker. Aim for about a 30 degree angle on the point. Grind the points blunt. Don't have to be too precise.
D. Put on a knob or handle. You will struggle to get the drill bit through the steel, if you get fed up then either epoxy on a knob or use a vice grip to turn it.
E. If the striker doesn't unscrew, screw it inwards a bit, in case the threads have been peened at the back. Then unscrew.
One would think that with all the removal tools sold over the last several+ years some one would come up with a tool that did not shear off the pins when trying to remove a firing pin.
I only had to remove the firing pin from one No 4 bolt since 30 years of collecting Enfields and that one sheared the pins off the tool. Usually you only need to soak in a solvent to remove the crud.
Regards, George
Thanks, thats what I'm using to disassemble the gun.Quote:
Originally Posted by Badger
I need to get the forend stock and stock off so I can clean them up. I will work on getting the stock off but from what I am reading it appear that the forend stock does not come off. Is this correct?
Yes, the fore-end stock comes off - the upper wood is in 2 pieces, the lower is in one.
Have a look at the exploded diagram at Elwood Epps Sporting Goods Military Rifles page
Rob
thanks for the help guys!!! very much appreciated!
Well I got it all apart except the bolt. Most of it has been cleaned in mineral spirits and oiled and put into bags (so I don't lose them).
https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...102_2388-1.jpg
Hope to work on the wood tomorrow. Can these pins be driven out of the fore-end stock or would risk breaking it?
https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...102_2385-1.jpg
Without everyones help I would not have made it this far. The British guns are new to me. Man, they sure are different from the US gun I have cleaned.
Those pins should come out pretty easily. Note that each one has a very small flat ground at either end. When reassembled the flats should face each other so that the band can hold them in place.
There's a good thread on stubborn striker removal techniques in the Gunsmithing forum. Link to follow:
Click here:Removing Lee Enfield Firing Pins - Military Surplus Collectors Forums
Of striker tools.. Of the thousands of 1's 4's and 5's that I have ever stripped, I have never had a broken tool (if you'll excuse the pun.....) while using the isssued tool. They were TOUGH as opposed to hard.
If it seems of feels like it's going to be a struggle, just heat up the cocking piece to hot heat (not red heat!) and try again
Wow they did come out nice and easy! Got the fore-end and stock in dishwasher. I'll post some pics when she comes out!Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve H. in N.Y.
No I got to make a list of missing parts and work on getting an order in. Just dying to clean the barell and take a peak cause she looked pretty damn good when it was dirty. Rifling looks very nice.
The guy I got this off of had several that were sporterized by his grandfather. He must not have got around to doing this one before his passing. I figure he bought several that would make good shooters. Fingers crossed.
The military specification tools won't break. I've never broken one either and have done hundreds. The crap FP removal tools from Brownells, Sarco and GPC will break. You get what you pay for.
CM, Before you reassemble, there are two screws that look alike, but can't (usually) be interchanged. They are the small screws that hold the front sight protector and the rear trigger guard screw. The rear trigger guard screw is slightly longer. If the front sight protector's screw is used, it will strip the action body, if lucky that can be fixed by threading in from the opposite side to chase the threads.
Brad
As I mentioned I am missing several parts, screws, and springs. One of them is the foresight protector screw. So for now I cannot get them interchanged :p. Eventually I know I will be posting here for help with the missing parts I need. I have started a list.Quote:
Originally Posted by bradtx
Hey the stock and fore-end stock are out of the dishwasher. There are some nice cartouche or markings on the wood. I do not want to sand it. I will put it down in the basement to dry slowly. Eventually I will have to decide how to finish it. I am also missing the front and rear handguards. Will probably order used walnut and try to match the finish to what I got.
Before dishwasher:
https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...102_2388-1.jpg
After (there's still some stubborn stuff on the fore-end that might need knocked off with fine sandpaper):
https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...102_2389-1.jpg
Anyone know what these mean:
https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...102_2395-1.jpg
https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...102_2391-1.jpg
https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...102_2399-1.jpg
https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...102_2390-1.jpg
Got 2 nice little crack to fix ~ I think I will use Gorilla wood glue then clamp with some surgical tubing
https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...102_2394-1.jpg
The magazine looks as if it is from a SMLE.
It could be one of the BSA conversions from 1942-43 where the No1 (SMLE)mags were converted to suit the No4 Lee Enfield rifle.
Another "mystery" "FR" marked stock....
Don't bother gorilla glueing that split butt down the heel butt plate screw as it'll just open up again. Patch the butt as per the photos regularly shown here. Can anyone pull up a photo of a suitably Armourer patched butt to illustrate to Chunky
My 13C Savage No4 Mk1* - will this do ?Quote:
Originally Posted by Peter Laidler
https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...02/F192g-1.jpg