OK, what is the secret/proper way to attach the carrying strap to the carbine? I can't get the oiler to go into the cut into the stock where it should secure the strap when it is wrapped with the carrying strap.. help
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OK, what is the secret/proper way to attach the carrying strap to the carbine? I can't get the oiler to go into the cut into the stock where it should secure the strap when it is wrapped with the carrying strap.. help
Put the oiler in the slot first then poke the tail of your C tip in and around until you can do it up.
Sometimes, it may help to use your free fingers to "jiggle" the oiler in it's slot to find the "sweet spot" for the sling to feed thru. Unless it's an unusually thick sling tip, it'll go.
If the sling is a reproduction, keep in mind that most are a little thicker material than original slings.
Keep working at it, and you should be able to push the tip back through, but it will be a tight fit.
If it's a reproduction sling, have no hesitation about taking a hammer to the tip against a hard flat surface to make it flatter.
With some stocks , I have tried all of the above & still needed to carefully remove a very small amount of wood.
IMO , the end grain area soaks up liquids and swells over the years.
My type 2 Inland stock is also tight.I reversed the threading around the oiler so the end of the sling is next to the stock. No problem installing. The stock is for show and not being used.GK
Put the sling in first from the left side, plenty of slack. Put oiler into cutout all the way and push toward sight end of gun. Then take loose end and insert back into cutout. You can kind of wiggle oiler to get a little more clearance, but end of sling will go in. You can get some needle nose pliers or some tweezers to reach back in from the left side to grab it and pull back through. You cannot wrap the oiler with your sling and pull back into the slot, it wont go in. You have to thread it in put the oiler all the way in and thread it back through if that makes sense to you.
Don't ever do this.Quote:
Originally Posted by campperrykid
Not even on utilty birch?
;)
I've got confess that a couple stocks I have tried all of the techniques listed and still had to shave a little wood. It's a last ditch option for a utility stock.
ETA:
Or so I thought , there may be more tricks that are not listed yet.
I got a CMP Italian Rockola in a birch stock that looked like somebody took a chainsaw to the oiler slot. Must have been one frustrated Italian there! Fortunately I found a nice Rocky stock for it...
Nope!Quote:
Originally Posted by campperrykid
Unless the stock is a new manufacture, it's probably been thru a whole lot worse than would require modifying it.
Just a thought....
Good point.
One of the stocks was an an al cheapo birch repo from Fulton that needed fitting in a number of places.
Out of the real military stocks the score is only two or maybe three out of a dozen or so....
If I remember right, the early C tips are a little thinner then the later full tips and the early stocks were designed for those tips. I think they opened up the sling slot a bit on the later stocks to fit the later thicker tips, Ray
Ray, not doubting you one bit, but do you think you could find the source for that info? Just trying to expand my limited knowledge.......Quote:
Originally Posted by rayg
Thanks for any help.
Phil
Sorry to see that. Some of the folks have personal preferences about wood.Quote:
Originally Posted by Mizzouboy
According to a couple of people , there's nothing quite as good as Norwegian wood.
Even if it's cross bred with with a couple different kinds of dutch.
Sounds like the Beatles song... "I once had girl...isn't it good, Norwegian wood."Quote:
Originally Posted by campperrykid
A lady I used to know sang parts of that song from time to to time.
Her family were Swedes , but I never held that against her.
She was absolutely drop-dead , traffic-stopping beautiful , in an understated & very virtuous way. Lady could cook , too.