Can't ID No4MK1 rifle ...

Hi Everyone,

I just picked up an old No4MK1 F(FTR) rifle for $150. It has been "sporterized" and I cannot seem to find much information out there to help me ID where it might have come from.

Info:

No4 MK1 F(FTR)
Serial: Kxxxxxx ... K, followed by 6 numbers.
1943 is engraved on the left ring under the serial #.
Serials on the bolt and left side of reciever match.
Flip site has an "F" with a "CR 403" under it.
Top of the receiver has a "Made in England" stamp, with a crecent moon and asterisk symbols.
On the right of the receiver there is a crown symbol with a "N" and "1" below it.

I know the FTR means it was rebuilt at some point. Can anyone else tell me anything about the rifle? Much appreciated.

I can post images if it will help.

Sudbury, ONT, Canada

If you post the first few numbers of the serial number, we can probably ID it from the serial number block assigned to the different manufacturers

Serial #: K0203xx

Thanks!

Here are the images:

Picasa Web Albums - 11350383513278782... - LE

Its a Fazakerly made NO4 which has gone through Factory Through Repair at some point in its life, probably in the 50's. The sight is made by Fazakerly with an acceptance stamp. The barrel has been checked for accurate headspace and nitro proofed.

The serial number looks in the photo to be C20329, which is consistent with Fazakerley. It also looks like the serial number is stamped on the barrel just below the wood line in the picture.

I see the action has already been drilled for a scope mount, are you going to hunt with it?

Hi Amatikulu,

Thanks for the information. I am planning on hunting with it once I get it cleaned up. I am definitly planning on going for deer with it and hoping that it is powerfull enough for moose, though I still have to research this.

It looks to me like the rifling is in good shape, but the biggest problem I have right now is that the action is very, very stiff the last inch or so, when it seems to engage with a part under the bolt itself (I apologize for not knowing the names of all the parts yet, I am still learning). I am hoping that some oil will loosen it up but I am not sure what exactly to try first.

Actually, I am thinking of doing the following to the rifle:

1) Cleaning out the barrel with some barrel solvent.
2) Lightly oiling the barrel.
3) Cleaning the entire rifle exterior (there is quite a bit of fine, red powder in places. My first thought was "rust" but all the parts still seem black and it has a pretty good bluing).
4) Removing and cleaning the bolt.
5) Lightly oiling the bolt and the part under the bolt it interfaces with.
6) Bringing it to a range to test fire with the flip sight.

If all goes well after that then I plan on getting some type of scope. I am just starting hunting (never been before) and I heard these type of rifles are accurate and last forever, so when I saw one for $150 I snapped it up.

From the look of it do you think it is worth $150?

Thanks again for your help.

Hi M47C,

Thanks for your help.

Could I ask you - what does "accurate headspace and nitro proofed" mean? I apologize for being a "noob"; I am just starting to get into hunting and gun collecting.

Thanks !

Hi amatikulu,

Good catch - you are right. The serial is KC203xx. The "C" looked like a "0" to me. Oops.

Would there be any way or tracing the general history of the rifle through the markings that are present (Crowns, crescent moon symbols, etc)? I am curious if it would be possible to determine if it was used in war at all or was surplus in Canada / England.

Cheers!

All Lee turnbolt actions require the spring compressing during the closing stroke of the bolt, so that is why the final inch is hard to push.
'Headspace' on Lee-Enfields, can be considered as distance between bolthead face and the recess on the rear of the barrel on which the cartridge rim sits. It is measured with proper Go/NoGo gauges, not gaffer tape, beer can shims, strips of cardboard or other expedients. Americans seem obsessed with this, perhaps because they get sold all the junk guns that are unsellable to other gun-owning countries, or maybe because it's easy to change by parts substitution (although this opens up other problems). Many of the L-Es sold in America seem to have been separated from their correct bolt over the years and this increases the likelihood of a problem.
British commercial proof marks are visible, a form of testing required by law in most nations with any sort of a gun industry, with the glaring exception of the United States.

As Mk VII stated, it's normal for the bolt to feel very hard to close. If it feels very very very hard it's possible that the striker may be binding a bit within the bolt. Cleaning and lubrication wouldn't hurt in any case. I'll bet quite a few moose have been taken with a .303, eh?

Nomenclature; the cocking piece at the rear of the bolt is engaged by the upper arm of the sear.

Wendigo

All new firearms are proof tested, this means a high pressure test cartridge that can be 120% to 140% higher pressure than a normal hunting cartridge.

Your Enfield was re-proof tested and the bolt was checked for proper head space. This means the bolt face where the firing pin come out is the proper distance from the rear of the cartridge with the bot closed.

A well used Enfield may over time have the head space or air gap between the bolt face and rear of the cartridge case grow or increase beyond normal limits.

In short your Enfield was checked for serviceability before it was sold on the civilian market and passed with flying colors.

Get some foam bore cleaner and let the foam do all your work for you, the U.S. Military now uses this from small arms to field pieces. You will not find a better way to clean any rifle bore of all copper.

https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...IMGP5065-1.jpg

Thanks for the Info guys, much appreciated. I'll post some pics and a note after I get it cleaned up and test fired.

Cheers !

Be sure to clean out all of the old grease from the inside of the bolt.
Mine (circa 1942) was gooey and petrified. This will slow down the lock time (trigger release to firing, simply). Re-lube lightly with gun grease.

If your goal is Moose, use HEAVY bullets! 180 gr. soft points or better.