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Late World War II Inland
Bought this 6.3 million late war Inland yesterday from a local seller. All parts are Inland coded and it appears to be original. The interesting thing is that someone wrote the serial number with red grease pencil on the right side of the buttstock. It wasn't noticeable until I applied some raw linseed oil, then the numbering popped out.
https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...DSC02820-1.jpg
Auto manufacturers did (still do?) this type of marking at the factory during the assembly process. Perhaps this is something that Inland (a division of General Motors) did during manufacturing? It sure would be easier to see the big red grease pencil numbers for tracking purposes as the carbine went around the factory during assembly, sighting in, inspection, etc. rather than trying to read the small numbers on the receiver.
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Hey,
You put more pictures up somewhere else, what gives?
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how about pics of the barrel band, rear sight looks like a nice find congrats.
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How about photos of the whole rifle............:dunno:
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Milsurp,
Can you get someone to give you an opinion of that marking on the handguard? I went and looked at alot of mine (Types I, II and III's) and the "0" in the 0I looks oval. Yours looks round like a "O" vs "0". It may just be me... but if its wrong thats an easy replacement...
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Sand paper is a big no-no. I would start with just DNA since it should cut through the grease pencil and prep the wood for your favorite flavor of linseed oil (I prefer BLO served with a hint of cheese cloth myself). Glad the handguard checks out - I just don't recall seeing one like that (of course thats no big deal, I don't recall seeing my head with hair either).
Not sure what you paid, but it looks like you sure got your money's worth - plus that stock is going to look great once you are finished oiling it. Congrats!
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you got a winner nice and original thats the way to get them.
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I have noticed a similar stamp on two of my later 4 rivet IO handguards
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Again, congrats on a nice score! Sure is pretty! Gotta love that patina!
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TRy this mixture to clean up your stock. It works like a charm. I mix it in a spray bottle to make it easier to apply. This is takenj from Tom's 1/3 mix site.
Typically, you can put this mixture in a 20 oz. water bottle, some disfiguring of the bottle will
occur, but it should be good for quite some time.
4 ounces of De-natured Alcohol
4 ounces of Turpentine
4 ounces of Raw Linseed Oil (I never tried BLO)
and 1 ounce of Ammonia
When using it on the stock, scrub with steel wool or possibly a green scratchy. How dirty the stock is, will determine how many times you have to use it. Typically, for a M1 Garrand Stock from Korea - you know the really grungy ones, it will take 2 or 3 "treatments". Wipe the stock with a disposable rag with Mineral Spirits in between applications. Also, let the stock set for a day between treatments - you are using Linseed Oil here.
Due to the Linseed Oil, your stock is pretty much "Finished" when you're done cleaning it.
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Guys, just to make it clear, I was kidding about messing around with the stock. All I'm going to do is put raw linseed oil on it. ;):D
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I'd leave it alone, too. Good looking rifle.
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Looks very nice...........:thup:
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I believe I would clean it up and at least get the grease pencil off. That would be a beauty after is cleaned up a little. That's the beauty though......to each is own.
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Nice rifle.
Regarding cleaning the stock, I've had really good luck using "Pledge" furniture-cleaning wipes to get the surface dust/grime/gunk off of a number of stocks.
Mild stuff, they do a good job de-grunging 60+ years of dust and grime and haven't affected the overall patina. After using, I go over the stock with one of those silicone-impregnated gun-cleaning cloths and call it good.
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Nice score on the transitional carbine! I cleaned mine with just warm BLO/mineral spirits first time to cut surface grime, then used just warm BLO for several more coats, rubbing with lint free cloth in between.
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Thanks for the comments guys!
Someone on another forum said my extractor looked worn out, but that's because I took the pictures without cleaning the parts first. :o The close-up pictures make it easy to see crud. I cleaned off the crud and the extractor looks much better.
https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...3418cbcc-1.jpg
People on other forums have commented about the Type 2 band, since some carbines in this range have Type 3 bands. This carbine was made during the transition from the Type 2 to the Type 3 band. The Carbine Club had Inland Carbines of the Month with slightly lower (6.27 million) and slightly higher (6.37 million) that also have Type 2 bands. But the Type 3 bands were starting to be used around the same time.
