No 1 MK 3 rebuild, possible bedding issue

Good day everyone,

Last year I was given a No1 Mk3 that had been sporterized but not bubba'd. The metal was intact and in excellent condition but the forearm was cut and forearm metal was missing.

I stumbled onto a set of original Enfield replacement wood and metal including a nosecap without serial number. These were not Ishy parts, and showed the E and broad arrow but no serials. I found an excellent rear sight with windage, but I am still looking for volley sights and a cut off. Otherwise the rifle is back to original appearance.

I carefully fitted the forearm and handguards as per the Canadian manual, I have approx 6lbs pressure at the barrel tip with the nosecap installed. I also have .020 gap around the barrel at the nosecap.

Pictures are here under the "SMLE" folder.
DAve Status

The rifle shoots well. Last weekend I went to a practice shoot with several instructors from our state and at 400 yards I was keeping all shots on a 6moa steel plate, doing just as well as the Garand shooters. Not bad for no peep sight and a 96 year old rifle.

The problem. I have owned and repaired several Enfields over the years. Mostly cleaning, refurbishing to original specs, and repairing stocking. Always I was able to get excellent accuracy and put the POI where is was supposed to be. However, with this Mk3 I am having issues. With the .030 front sight I am shooting 8 moa high. This I checked with the 25 yard sighting target and verified at 400 yards as mentioned earlier.

I am at a loss to understand why. Posssibly the crown? The barrel had one flaw which was a very bad nick in the crown which I removed. I cannot believe that recrowning would cause such a large change in POI.

I am open to suggestions as to what I might do, what I might have done wrong, or what I should check.

If the suggestion is that a under 4moa Mk3 should be left as is, I will make a new front sight to the needed height and go on shooting her.

Thanks,

DAve

Quite a few apparently normal SMLEs do shoot very high - ie outside the normal range of issue sight blades. Sometimes it is not at all apparent what is causing the problem - especially if the rifle appears 100% to specification. The usual check list I run through is:

1. Vary the inner band screw setting (usually just affect group size);

2. Change the nosecap (can have a dramatic effect on POI and/or group size);

3. Replace rear sight leaf - even if the original appears perfectly normal.

Remember the saying 'common problems occur commonly'. There are another 3 higher foresights you could try first. That'll certainly lower the group. But I think it's a fore-end fitting problem and No1 fore-ends are a lot trickier to fit than No4's, believe me

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Thunderbox

Quite a few apparently normal SMLEs do shoot very high - ie outside the normal range of issue sight blades. Sometimes it is not at all apparent what is causing the problem - especially if the rifle appears 100% to specification. The usual check list I run through is:

1. Vary the inner band screw setting (usually just affect group size);

2. Change the nosecap (can have a dramatic effect on POI and/or group size);

3. Replace rear sight leaf - even if the original appears perfectly normal.

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1) Hmm, I honestly didn't think about the inner band. I have in the past simply made certain that the band was loose in the wood with the proper relief throughout, then would tighten the barrel against the forend stud. I should try adjusting it.

2) My nosecap did not touch the barrel once the inner band screw was tightened. I still relived it another .020.

3) I had wondered about wear on the elevator, didn't think the leaf would be that much different. I am looking at needing .090 increase at the front sight, that seems like a lot of difference in sight leafs.

DAve

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Peter Laidler

Remember the saying 'common problems occur commonly'. There are another 3 higher foresights you could try first. That'll certainly lower the group. But I think it's a fore-end fitting problem and No1 fore-ends are a lot trickier to fit than No4's, believe me

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Well I think I need nearly .090 to reach the proper front sight height, so my suspicion is bedding. Or my incorrect bedding I should say. This is the first time I have ever installed a "new" forestock.

I bedded like so,

1) Relieved only enough wood to allow the receiver to drop in place making contact at the knox form and the back of the receiver. Checked with lamp black.

2) Removed only enough wood to allow the receiver to back up and make contact at the rear of the trigger mounting (tabs? lugs? bosses?).

3) Relieved around the inner band only enough to allow it to move freely with the trigger guard installed and tightened down.

4) Relieved the barrel channel to ensure no wood touched with the trigger guard installed and the inner band tightened.

After 300 rounds the receiver is still tight in the forestock.

Any suggestions on where I might begin looking at the bedding? I am seriously tempted to simply grab some steel and make a new front sight and call it a shooter. It will never be a collector's rifle, and a proper looking front sight with a taller blade would not detract from the rifle's enjoyment and likely never be noticed by anyone except perhaps an Enfield armorer ;^)

It certainly shoots well, with little or no vertical stringing even after 20 rounds of fast firing on a 90 day. Check this post, second to last picture, a beautiful sight.
AAR: Indiana KD Day 2010 (with Pics!)

Thanks for the assistance.

DAve

The inner band screw should only be tightened until spring compression is felt, if over tightened the barrel is pulled down in the middle causing the rifle to shoot high.

The inner band should only be tightened until spring compression is felt, the inner band acts like a shock absorber helping to dampen barrel vibrations. When the inner band screw is adjust correctly within its tuning range the screw should be free to move up and down when pushed with your screw driver.

https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...andscrew-1.jpg

With the nose cap and hand guards removed and pushing on the inner band screw with your screw driver the screw and inner band should move freely up and down. Think of your car tire and wheel being free to move up and down and the movement being dampened by the shock absorber.

https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...IMGP1538-1.jpg

And don't forget, we only range and accuracy tested our rifles with issue spec .303" ball ammunition. What are you using?

I thought the inner band screw's shoulder kept it from being overtightened and bottoming the spring.

I also thought that the front spring loaded plunger was to ensure uniform contact w/ top of the barrel hole in the nosecap.

Not that I've had many dramas w/ getting SMLEs/No.1s to zero (or to shoot well until they get rather hot). If I have problems it's usually w/ No.4s...

I have noticed that "slow" rounds do tend to print higher at close range (100yds) w/ some rifles but usually not more than 2-3" over standard ammo (MV variation of over 150fps or so).

Very slight alteration to Mr Horton's post if I may... The inner band screw should be tightened up to lock. The screw itself has a shoulder at the depth of thread to lock against. This leaves the length of the larger diameter from the shoulder to the head of the screw for the spring, the washer inside the foreend and the thickness of wood of the foreend.
To test, do as Mr Horton describes above. If it doesn't move, then something else is wrong... not the tension of the screw.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Peter Laidler

And don't forget, we only range and accuracy tested our rifles with issue spec .303" ball ammunition. What are you using?

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Currently I am using Privi,
"Prvi Partizan Ammunition 303 British 174 Grain Full Metal Jacket"

Brass seems good though I bought several hundred rounds and have not reloaded any of it yet. Accuracy seems good as well.

DAve

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Son

Very slight alteration to Mr Horton's post if I may... The inner band screw should be tightened up to lock. The screw itself has a shoulder at the depth of thread to lock against. This leaves the length of the larger diameter from the shoulder to the head of the screw for the spring, the washer inside the foreend and the thickness of wood of the foreend.
To test, do as Mr Horton describes above. If it doesn't move, then something else is wrong... not the tension of the screw.

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I also believed that the screw should be bottomed against the shoulder. With the upper guards and nosecap removed I can loosen the screw and the inner band is free to move, rattle even. Tightening the screw will pull the muzzle noticeably upward.

If the thunderstorms stop I will try adjusting the tension of the inner band screw. Right now my backyard range requires a canoe to get to the targets 8^(

Thanks everyone for the info, very helpful.

DAve

My apologies, after reading the above postings and Sons very polite "Ed you have a few loose screws" :o I searched every Enfield book and manual I have and they all say the inner band screw should be tightened until it bottoms out but be free to move up and down.
(Moral of story, NEVER ever argue with Ian Skennerton or Son the Ozmanic) BUT the Australians do cheat at Yacht racing, Rugby and Soccer. :bitch:

Ian Skennerton
Small Arms Identification Series No.1
.303 Rifle, No.1 SMLE Marks III & III*

ASSEMBLY.
"Inner Band: Spring should have slight play when screw is tightened up.
(Test with pressure with large screwdriver)"

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Edward Horton

My apologies, after reading the above postings and Sons very polite "Ed you have a few loose screws" :o I searched every Enfield book and manual I have and they all say the inner band screw should be tightened until it bottoms out but be free to move up and down.
(Moral of story, NEVER ever argue with Ian Skennerton or Son the Ozmanic) BUT the Australians do cheat at Yacht racing, Rugby and Soccer. :bitch:

Ian Skennerton
Small Arms Identification Series No.1
.303 Rifle, No.1 SMLE Marks III & III*

ASSEMBLY.
"Inner Band: Spring should have slight play when screw is tightened up.
(Test with pressure with large screwdriver)"

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Hmm, so when I bottom out the screw the inner band is no longer free to move up and down. I need to look at the bedding in that area again.

DAve

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Edward Horton

BUT the Australians do cheat at Yacht racing, Rugby and Soccer. :bitch:
"[/COLOR]

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We don't play soccer..... do we? Oh, hang on- we must. I spotted this news clipping the other day...

The Socceroos visited an orphanage in South Africa this morning. "It's so good to put a smile on the face of people constantly struggling and facing the impossible" said Jamal Umboto, aged 6. :rolleyes:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by yellowhousejake

Hmm, so when I bottom out the screw the inner band is no longer free to move up and down. I need to look at the bedding in that area again.

DAve

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yellowhousejake

I did not trust my memory after reading Sons posting, my problem is I can't find what I thought I read about not over tightening or bottoming out the inner band screw and only tightening until spring compression is felt.

Until I find it in writing and can post it here, I would trust Sons statement on the adjustment of the inner band screw.
I'm still looking for it in writing BUT Son has far more experience bedding the No.1 than I have.

BUT the U.S. Soccer team seems to know more about Soccer than the Australians do. (The revenge of "Quigley Down Under") :D

I agree with this statement: "... the front spring loaded plunger [is] to ensure uniform contact w/ top of the barrel hole in the nosecap...". Now, if I have understood you correctly, the tip of your barrel is free floating in your nosecap? That could well be the problem; as far as I know, the principle of free floating SMLE barrels works only with heavy barrels, if at all, and contact with the nose cap is the correct set-up to damp down barrel flip. Now, I am not an expert, but that is what I understand. You can get a new nosecap (part 1A) for $6 - $9 from http://ssporters.com/parts/ENFIELD1.htm and also can get a .045' front sight blade for $1.50 from the same source.

The muzzle end must contact the foreend for about the last two inches with about 4 to 6 lbs of force required to separate them without the nosecap. The barrel centering stud is only there to maintain some upward thrust on the barrel if the foreend begins to warp away from it. Both it and the inner band were only there to reduce the effect on accuracy by a warping foreend, thus removing the need to have the rifle repaired/ re-bedded.
Here's a pic of a foreend just removed from the rifle to clean out the factory grease. You can clearly see the contact areas at the barrel knox, then about 1/2 to 1 inch either side of the inner band, ending with up at least a few inches at the muzzle. This one has continuous contact from the inner band to the muzzle and shoots better than I can.
All of this is irrelevant if the receiver isn't bedded properly.

Was that a standard barrel in it? ie. not a heavy

yellowhousejake

Any Enfield rifle that looks that good restored must be made to shoot as well also, you have done a beautiful job.

You also have some of the best people in the world helping you here, specifically the well known Armourer Mr. Laidler, Son the Australian and Thunderbox from the UK. I'm saying this to help you weigh the advice given here in this forum in fixing your problem.

Mr. Laidler stated your Enfield was sighted in using Mk.7 military ammunition which has flat base bullet and not boat tail bullet. The Prvi Partizan ammunition you are shooting is nothing more than modern Mk.8z machine gun ammunition, try switching and shooting flat base bullet ammuntion.

https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo.../Img023B-1.jpg

Prvi Partizan 303 British 174 Grain FMJ is Mk.8z maching gun ammunition and is NOT standard Mk.7 ammunition.

https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...IMGP6283-1.jpg

https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...IMGP6278-1.jpg

https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...IMGP6281-1.jpg

Try shooting any flat base bullet ammunition and see if the POI changes, a standard boat tail bullet can be deflected with anything but a perfect bore and crown at the muzzle. The British used the rebated boat tail Mk.8z bullet for a very good reason. ;)

https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo.../Img023a-1.jpg

https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...boattail-1.jpg

Quote:

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Originally Posted by tbonesmith

Was that a standard barrel in it? ie. not a heavy

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Yes mate, standard barrel.
It is a '55 FTR Lithgow and was unfired at that stage.

Mr Horton, another great technical post! Cannot recall seeing differences in intermediate ballistics explained as clearly.

Just to add, here's an amazing photo a mate took that helps demonstrate the moment of gas escape as the projectile exits the bore.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Edward Horton

yellowhousejake

Any Enfield rifle that looks that good restored must be made to shoot as well also, you have done a beautiful job.

You also have some of the best people in the world helping you here, specifically the well known Armourer Mr. Laidler, Son the Australian and Thunderbox from the UK. I'm saying this to help you weigh the advice given here in this forum in fixing your problem.

Mr. Laidler stated your Enfield was sighted in using Mk.7 military ammunition which has flat base bullet and not boat tail bullet. The Prvi Partizan ammunition you are shooting is nothing more than modern Mk.8z machine gun ammunition, try switching and shooting flat base bullet ammuntion.

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Thanks for the kind words. I very much appreciate the help and I am thinking long and hard about the next step to ensure I do the right thing.

I never noticed the "BT" on the Privi box, but that does explain a lot. My previous Enfields, A Lithgow, a Savage, and a BSA, all shot beautifully using my standard load of a Sierra 180gr Pro Hunter over WW 760 powder. The Sierra Pro Hunter is a flat base bullet. Something to keep in mind.

Re-reading everyone's information I checked that my barrel forward of the inner band is bedded to the forearm properly, it is. With the inner band tight and the nosecap off, stud removed, a dollar bill will not slip between the barrel and the wood. This I checked from the inner band all the way to the front sight.

I checked next to see if the inner band when tightened will still move when a screwdriver is pressed into the screw, it will NOT. Tightening and loosening the inner band screw, will however, show movement of the barrel. The inner band is certainly applying pressure to the barrel. I believe I have the barrel channel bedded correctly. I may not have the inner band socket(?) in the forearm correct though.

As to relieving the nosecap. I removed at most .010 out of the nosecap which can be easily put back if needed. To check if that is my problem, I can add shims to the nosecap for the barrel to press against.

I will be on the firing line for the next three days instructing, but I have next week free until I start a new job. I will look into the forearm bedding then and report my findings.

Thank you all again!

DAve

Dave, you sound like you know what you are doing- so here's a possible quick fix. Can you make a spacer, probably start with something under a mm thick, like a tiny washer. Fit it on the thread end of the inner band screw and make the outside diameter the size of the large diameter of the screw. This will extend the length where the spring sits and may relieve the band enough to give it free play in the wood by Mr Horton's test and stop the barrel being pulled down hard.
The barrel should have contact in all the points I described earlier without the band tightened, what you need to achieve is when tightening the band you are not moving the barrel.
Then do another testfire.

Is it possible that over the many years of installing and removing the inner band screw that the threads have been worked back a bit farther than they should and this is allowing the screw to be turned down too much and bottoming out the inner band instead of letting it float on the spring ?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Son

Dave, you sound like you know what you are doing- so here's a possible quick fix. Can you make a spacer, probably start with something under a mm thick, like a tiny washer. Fit it on the thread end of the inner band screw and make the outside diameter the size of the large diameter of the screw. This will extend the length where the spring sits and may relieve the band enough to give it free play in the wood by Mr Horton's test and stop the barrel being pulled down hard.
The barrel should have contact in all the points I described earlier without the band tightened, what you need to achieve is when tightening the band you are not moving the barrel.
Then do another testfire.

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Sounds like a good thing to try, I was thinking along the same lines. My suspicion is that the unused replacement wood I acquired needs to have the inner band screw hole set to a proper depth, which I have not done. Further inspection this afternoon shows that the inner band spring is fully compressed when the screw shoulder meets the inner band.

Whether I remove wood from the inside or outside of the screw hole remains to be discovered. I think I need to take the wood from the outside of the hole so the inner band remains in the same position, and the spring is compressed less when the screw shoulder meets the inner band.

Does that make sense? Inside and outside of the hole? I am speaking of the wood shoulder inside the screw hole that the inner band spring rests against.
A washer may give me the results I am looking for and then I can use the required washer thickness to know how much wood to remove.

That is simple enough I may give it a try tomorrow.

JBS -- the forestock and all metal forward of the receiver are new, unused, armorer replacement parts. They wear no markings except the broad arrow. There is no wear on the screw.

DAve

I wouldn't touch the wood just yet.
Does the barrel have downward pressure on the muzzle end of the foreend without the inner band screw fitted?
If the barrel pulls down when you tighten the inner band screw as you said earlier, then removing wood on the top side of the hole can only make it worse. Taking it from the outside would work, but how much do you have there to start with...?

If the bedding is correct with the inner band screw not fitted, then I wouldn't touch the wood again. Any alterations you make to the middle now are going to require alterations to the front and the back as well- virtually starting again!

Extend the collar on the screw a little until the tightening of the inner band does not pull the barrel down... or leave the spring out so it does nothing and then test fire it to check your poa against the poi. The inner band was only to help "tame" the barrel in the event of a foreend warping. In a correctly fitted foreend, it should do nothing.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Son

I wouldn't touch the wood just yet.
Does the barrel have downward pressure on the muzzle end of the foreend without the inner band screw fitted?
If the barrel pulls down when you tighten the inner band screw as you said earlier, then removing wood on the top side of the hole can only make it worse. Taking it from the outside would work, but how much do you have there to start with...?

If the bedding is correct with the inner band screw not fitted, then I wouldn't touch the wood again. Any alterations you make to the middle now are going to require alterations to the front and the back as well- virtually starting again!

Extend the collar on the screw a little until the tightening of the inner band does not pull the barrel down... or leave the spring out so it does nothing and then test fire it to check your poa against the poi. The inner band was only to help "tame" the barrel in the event of a foreend warping. In a correctly fitted foreend, it should do nothing.

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Well, I got a chance to work on the tuning a bit and these are my discoveries. First, nothing changed!

I verified the contact at the inner band and the nose.

I tried shooting with the inner band screw loosened, all the way to the point of removal.

I tried shooting with the nose cap stud spring removed.

I tried all combinations in between.

Still, I am inches high with the 25 yard sight-in target.

I am leaning towards the crown. It had a nick that I polished out. Possibly the crown was not straight in the first place.

I am also concerned that the Privi ammo may shoot differently, I just ordered a few boxes of Sierra 180 grain FB pro hunters to reload.

I can try making contact at the nose cap. Suggestions? I can stake the inside of the nose cap hole to provide contact, or I can add cork to the forearm tip. I only require barely 4 lbs of lift to pull the muzzle off the forearm so I can shim to make nosecap contact and still be less than 7 lbs required to lift the muzzle (I believe).

Again, thanks all for the generous help.

DAve

Where in the world are you? I might could send you an unmodified nosecap- I've got more than I'm likely to ever need.

Back to your first post, what sight setting did you use to hit the steel plate at 400yds?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by jmoore

Where in the world are you? I might could send you an unmodified nosecap- I've got more than I'm likely to ever need.

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Greenfield Indiana, USA. But I am not thinking the nosecap is the issue. It barely touched the muzzle after bedding and I removed less than twenty thousandths off of it. one touch with a punch and it would make contact again. Two sheets of paper will not fit between the barrel and the nosecap.

DAve

---------- Post added at 05:19 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:17 PM ----------

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Son

Back to your first post, what sight setting did you use to hit the steel plate at 400yds?

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250 yards even on the elevator. I did not start making fine adjustments as that setting put me right on the center of the plate with a 6 o'clock hold.

DAve

PS, you show exactly 303 posts with your last message. kinda cool.

I apologize for the long delay, but 8 out of the last 10 weekends have been consumed with Appleseed Instructing.

So I have been reviewing all the excellent and generous information I have been given and reviewed all the bedding I did on the new wood. I also read everything provided in the knowledge base as well. I believe I have bedded the rifle properly, I suspect fine tuning is all that is needed. If so I will likely start with raising the draws with shims to increase fore pressure.

The crown after checking, is fine.

I have ten rounds loaded with Sierra 180 grain pro hunters and 36.6 grains of AA 2520 for testing. I hope, hope, to get that done this week.

Thanks,

DAve

My 2 bob's worth:

The problem is that the rifles were regulated to the ammo, not the other way around. As soon as you change from MkVII ball with its flat base and little aluminium filler plug, AND a cordite load, all bets are off downrange. The North American manufactured WW2 and post MkVII presents some challenges but if topped of with the correct bullet these are not insurmountable.

Thus we are presented with a couple of challenges. Firstly; how much decent MkVII ball has anyone seen lately, and secondly; if we fall upon a stash of Kynoch or similar, and then don't clean our nice barrels properly, they will "demise" rapidly.

The factors that change when you feed it anything other than MkVII include: bullet jump, pressure curve, muzzle velocity trajectory and all those interesting multi-mode barrel vibrations.

Bullets seated to a shorter overall cartridge length may cause feeding "issues" as well.

Try to stick to flat-based projectiles in the 174-180 grain range. Avoid boat-tails like the plague to minimise gas-cutting at the throat. Because of the way it upsets as it enters the throat, the open-based MkVII ball projectile provides a better gas seal than ANY conventionally-jacketed "sporting" projectile.

I find that the old rifles can be made to shoot pretty much to POA if you use the quicker American powders. They do seem to come closer to the pressure curve of Cordite MDT than do slower powders.

I have had some success with loading the .303 but I do not use a powder any slower than 4895.

My test load for the .303 I have given out many times. It uses a Sierra 180 Pro-Hunter flatbase bullet sated to the OAL of a Mark VII Ball round. Powder is 37 to 38 grains of 4895, depending on the preference of the rifle. Generally, this shoots very accurately but only clocks 2250, so is a bit slow for Milspec shooting. I have also had very good shooting with the Hornady flatbase 150 Spire Point with 40 grains of 4064: again, just a bit mild but very accurate..... and definitely not Milspec.

I have looked at all the photos and read most of the posts. It seems to me that this rifle has a name now. She is a Dangerous Old Rifle (Australian). "Dora" sounds as if it must be her name! She is a sweetie for sure!

Hope some of this might help.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by smellie

I find that the old rifles can be made to shoot pretty much to POA if you use the quicker American powders. They do seem to come closer to the pressure curve of Cordite MDT than do slower powders.

I have had some success with loading the .303 but I do not use a powder any slower than 4895.

My test load for the .303 I have given out many times. It uses a Sierra 180 Pro-Hunter flatbase bullet sated to the OAL of a Mark VII Ball round. Powder is 37 to 38 grains of 4895, depending on the preference of the rifle. Generally, this shoots very accurately but only clocks 2250, so is a bit slow for Milspec shooting. I have also had very good shooting with the Hornady flatbase 150 Spire Point with 40 grains of 4064: again, just a bit mild but very accurate..... and definitely not Milspec.

I have looked at all the photos and read most of the posts. It seems to me that this rifle has a name now. She is a Dangerous Old Rifle (Australian). "Dora" sounds as if it must be her name! She is a sweetie for sure!

Hope some of this might help.

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Well I tested the loads with 2520 and the Sierra 180 Pro Hunters. I had previously always used WW760 and the Pro Hunters which was my go-to load in the past. The 2520 was recommended as a change and did not let me down. Groups were very consistent and tight. In the course of firing several groups quickly, POI did not change as the rifle heated up.

However, POI is exactly the same as with Privi ammo. Adjusting the center band made no difference.

I think my bedding is good and correct. I took my time and followed the manuals carefully.

I think my Barrel is accurate.

For now the rifle is telling me to stop monkeying around at 25 yards (they do talk to me you know). Possibly I will come back to the forestock at a later date and investigate further adjustment shims to the top of the draws, experimenting with differing pressures on the barrel tip.

I think I just need to make a new front sight and start shooting the rifle.

Dora, I love it. It fits her, it's not Matilda, and it has meaning.

I will get some close up pictures and post another thread to show the numbers on the receiver to get a positive ID on her.

Thank you all so much for your help and suggestions.

DAve

I think I just need to make a new front sight and start shooting the rifle.

Not that I have anything to contribute to this thread, but I simply thought about mentioning how I looooove this thread. Candy for my neurons.

I recently have been shooting some Canadian military .303 ammo (circa 1940's) and it's fun to see how different it behaves compared to my (beginner) reload, or to modern commercial ammo.

Lou

Quote:

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Originally Posted by louthepou

Not that I have anything to contribute to this thread, but I simply thought about mentioning how I looooove this thread. Candy for my neurons.

Lou

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There are some wonderfully knowledgeable people here who are gracious enough to share that knowledge. We are truly fortunate to have access to them.

Thank you all,

DAve