The Found M1

After posting Which M1 is most sort after ?

I finally got my hands on it.
No history other than it came from Paris.
Trying to find out more history but I wont hold my breath.
It has been dated to 1942
It was not really in the condition that I had been lead
to think it was in.
It was not greased up.
In fact it was rather dry and dusty.
It all worked and from the pics below you can see that it
was barn / attic stored dry. It came with a BYF K98 all matching
except the base plate, in the same condition.

I do have a few more pics of the M1.

November 42 sounds about right I think...I'll bet the two rifles were battlefield pickups at the same time and hidden away for a rainy day. The old fellow who did it died and they now resurface. We're seeing a bit of that in all areas of collecting. A bit tough looking, but nothing like a tough case to bring out real talent!

What a great find, congrats!!!

Looks like a WWII "lost rifle" so far!

Although Garands don't have but one S/N, almost every part can be roughly dated or be known to be originally used on rifles of a specific vintage. I used to keep a three page data log on each of my collector rifles that detailed all the components.

If you want a project, pull it apart and photo each part, showing any markings (not all have marks), and have a picture essay.

It may not be pretty, but it truly may be rare in that it DID make it to the front, and is still exactly as configured during the time it was carried.

Just finished re sizing the pics,
Hope they are of interest and are clear enough.

Can any one tell me a little more ??

Although dusty in side there is very very little rust.
It is just the outside metal that has suffered.

If none of the parts end up being later than roughly '44 vintage, I think it'll be a pretty educational piece.

Nothing "bad" so far!- The "winged" mainspring plunger is the only thing I see so far that makes me want to scurry to the reference books.

All I would really do is strip and de-rustify the whole affair. A little wood work but being careful not to take off any of the history. If the pipe is OK then it's going to be just fine. It can spend the next 60 years in the rack beside the 98K.

I would be inclined to leave it as it is other than a lite cleaning and maybe condition the wood. That is quite a find indeed. Thank you for sharing it with us.

Oh, the mainspring plunger is "correct". I don't have any idea why i thought it was inappropriate. I'll blame it on too many hours at work...76 last week alone!:eek:


How about the front end? gas cylinder, plug, front sight, front sight retaining screw (or does it still have the cover over the screw?), barrel band, etc.

These pics are all I have for the moment.
It has gone it to hiding for a short time till I get it sorted properly.

I wonder if that is a type I or type II lock bar rear sight?

That is a T2 bar
You can tell by the hole in the middle of the pinion for staking in place

Great find and congratulations. Would it not be ironic if the two rifles shot at each other ? Wish they could talk.

Sounds like the family gave it a break. Good to see it survive. Too many ignorant people turn these in for destruction by the police. A gun friend who works for Goodwill industries says they get guns all the time and Goodwill makes them turn them in to the cops for destruction. I always watch the video footage of police "buy-backs" to see what history is being lost...

Well 6 weeks have passed and the rifle has finally come to stay.
I will take more pics soon as I have finished rewiring a house.

Let me know what you would like photoed and what I should look for.

Any photos of the rifle in detail would be appreciated! Parts AREN'T just parts, each can be traced to a particular range of S/Ns as originally built.

It might do to make a list of the markings on the individual pieces. A bit daunting the first time, but I've done it many times.

Perhaps someone can suggest a handy template for the Garand like the M1 Carbine Collectors Club has done.

:dancingbanana:I'm kind of excited about your discovery but take your time on getting the "nitty-gritty".:thup:

Quote:

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Any photos of the rifle in detail would be appreciated! Parts AREN'T just parts, each can be traced to a particular range of S/Ns as originally built.

It might do to make a list of the markings on the individual pieces. A bit daunting the first time, but I've done it many times.

Perhaps someone can suggest a handy template for the Garand like the M1 Carbine Collectors Club has done.

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GCA Datasheet here:

http://www.thegca.org/images/master_datasheet_v2.jpg

There are a several battlefield pickup M1 rifles the GCA has published datasheets on over the years.
Two (full story Fall 2008 GCA Journal) in particular were found about August 27, 1944 during the capture
of the village of Plouzané in western France and used by the Free French.

Ramboueille ,, this sure would make a nice story for the GCA mag. I would rather have rifles like this over a mint unissued one. That been there done that is my favorite. Rick B

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Rick B

Ramboueille ,, this sure would make a nice story for the GCA mag. I would rather have rifles like this over a mint unissued one. That been there done that is my favorite. Rick B

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Rick B,

You're right! These battlefield pick-up stories are hard to come by but if it's been posted on the Internet, GCA won't publish it given permission from the author. Most Internet posted photos won't print commercially anyhow but the original digitals will.

How cool!

Well the M1 came home after its holiday. 4 years ish.
I have also bought a new camera, I keep breaking them.
I do want to do a photo montage for you all.

SO now is the time for me to learn how to strip the thing,
I know very and I do mean very little about them.
This is the first I have ever handled, us rifles are not my interest.

Where is the best place to start.?
If I take it to bits is there any thing I will need to be careful with?
You can gues all my other questions i..e. what is this bit.

Go to garandgear dot com or the CMP website , both have awesome break down tutorials.

---------- Post added at 06:31 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:30 PM ----------

Awesome rifle by the way. I'd take that one over the good condition ones j have any day. The fact that you know it saw action is an amazing characteristic.

Nice to see this one re-surface. You can also just go to Youtube and ask for stripping an M1. It's all there. I think if you look, we have a sticky on it too... try this one. Quick Field Strip M1 Garand - Disassembly and Reassembly - YouTube

Field Manual No. 23-5 is also a useful item for M1 Garand owners to have.

Great rifle!
Thanks BAR for the video link. Now I can pass the time in case CMP ever ships my M-1.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by vintage hunter

Field Manual No. 23-5

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You understate...this is a MUST HAVE for a collector. Same as a correct era cartridge belt and suspenders and blade...1907 sling in this case...Borg-Warner clips...should I go on?

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Originally Posted by HOOKED ON HISTORY

Now I can pass the time

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Why wait? Start memorizing now...

Just don't assemble your sling like his or the DI will slash your bag...

Quote:

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Originally Posted by browningautorifle

You understate...this is a MUST HAVE for a collector. Same as a correct era cartridge belt and suspenders and blade...1907 sling in this case...Borg-Warner clips...should I go on?



Why wait? Start memorizing now...

Just don't assemble your sling like his or the DI will slash your bag...

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I have been gathering accoutraments clips,slings,bayonets,belts and studying for months tormented by the GCA Journal and just now what to my wondering eyes should appear? An e-mail from CPM. It will not be long now. I hope they are able to honor my reqest for a WWII serial number. I gave up seeking a M-1 locally (could not bring myself to buy a CMP rifle at premium prices) . Wish me luck.

P.S. DI might get me on somthing but not the sling. Unless I take a hit for a repro I have been practicing on an 03-A3.

I have a repro on my 7.62 shooter M1. That way I don't worry. I have a 1918 on my 3xx xxx LL...and the 1917 blade for it too.

DI will get you for forearm not level at the shoulder arms. Carrying your rifle like your daddy's shotgun...Bouncing while you're marching...

Might be a little help?

Component Listing for M1 Garand - MFG: SA Serial #: 1005416
|
MFG Component Drawing Number Heat Lot/Type Date Range Serial# Range Notes
SA Aperature B8868-1 Type 3-1 February/1940 to December/1957 28000 - 6100500 Early version. Rounded ramp shoulders below aperature disk. Narrow tracks (0.065 inches wide).
SA Aperature B8868-1 Type 3-2 February/1940 to December/1957 28000 - 6100500 Late version. Squared ramp shoulders below aperature disk. Wide tracks (0.085 inches wide). Edges of aperture disk smoothly finished.
SA Barrel D35448 N/A July/1940 to December/1957 50001 - 6100500 Generally dated to within 3 months of Receiver manufacture date.
SA Bolt D28287-12SA A8W November/1942 to November/1942 940251 - 1008899
SA Bolt D28287-12SA B10<> March/1942 to December/1944 489217 - 3359159 <> Indicates 8620 steel.
SA Bolt D28287-12SA B3 March/1942 to December/1944 498217 - 3359159
SA Bolt D28287-12SA B4A November/1942 to December/1942 940251 - 1090310
SA Bolt D28287-12SA B4B March/1942 to December/1944 498217 - 3359159
SA Bolt D28287-12SA O11A<> March/1942 to December/1944 498217 - 3359159 <> Indicates 8620 steel.
SA Bolt D28287-12SA RE4E March/1942 to December/1944 498217 - 3359159
SA Bolt D28287-12SA RE5C January/1942 to December/1942 429812 - 1090310
SA Bolt D28287-12SA S-04<> November/1942 to December/1944 940251 - 3359159 <> Indicates 8620 steel.
SA Bolt D28287-12SA S-11<> October/1942 to December/1942 872344 - 1090310 <> Indicates 8620 steel.
SA Bolt D28287-12SA S-A3<> March/1942 to December/1944 498217 - 3359159 <> Indicates 8620 steel.
SA Bolt D28287-12SA W10A March/1942 to December/1944 498217 - 3359159
SA Bullet Guide B8875 Type 2B August/1941 to March/1943 300001 - 1400000 Forged and milled, wide slot. Not marked.
SA Buttplate Assembly C64283 Type 2 October/1940 to December/1957 70001 - 6100500 Cap, 12 squares in vertical row intersecting screw hole.
SA Clip Ejector C46018 N/A January/1936 to December/1957 1 - 6100500 Early were blued, late were parkerized.
SA Clip Latch C46011 Type 1B July/1940 to March/1944 50001 - 2720000 Rounded front end at top, unmarked
SA Clip Latch Pin N/A N/A January/1936 to December/1957 1 - 6100500 3.280 inches long,head is 0.155 inches in diameter and 0.065 inches high. Opposite end slightly rounded. Body of pin is 0.119 inches in diameter.
SA Clip Latch Spring N/A N/A January/1936 to December/1957 1 - 6100500 0.03 inch steel wire, 5 coils, outside diameter 0.26 inch. White finish is original, Parkerized indicates refinishing.
SA Elevating Pinion N/A Type 3 August/1942 to June/1945 800000 - 3800000 Long with 8-36 NF thread, with locking bar.
SA Elevation Knob N/A Type 1C September/1942 to October/1945 850000 - 3888081 Knurled rim, closed arrowheads.
SA Extractor N/A N/A January/1936 to December/1957 1 - 6100500 Blued or Parkerized during WWII, all Parkerized after WWII.
SA Extractor Spring and Plunger B8886 N/A January/1936 to December/1957 1 - 6100500 Early may be blued.
SA Firing Pin B8879 Type 2 December/1941 to December/1957 425001 - 6100500 Half round cross section.
SA Follower and Slide N/A Type 2C July/1942 to October/1943 710001 - 2000000 Marked with "11".
SA Follower Arm B8869 Type 4 July/1941 to October/1945 290001 - 3888999 No bevel, rounded follower arm pin lugs. May ahve raised "S" marking as well as number stamped indicating drop forge used.
SA Follower Arm Pin A13667 Type 2 December/1941 to October/1945 429001 - 3888999 0.15 in rebate at end, 0.07 in at top.
SA Follower Rod C64331 Type 4 February/1941 to January/1944 190001 - 2500000 Stamped sheet metal. Short fork plate riveted. No marking.
SA Front Hand Guard C64245 N/A August/1940 to December/1957 50001 - 6100500
SA Front Site B147427 Type 3A July/1940 to December/1957 50001 - 6100500 Between 0.625 and 0.687 inches wide at blades. Smaller dimension usually associated with WWII.
SA Front Site Screw N/A Type 2 July/1940 to February/1943 50001 - 1360000 Rebated Allen socked head, used with seal.
SA Gas Cylinder D35449 Type 2B August/1941 to May/1943 315001 - 1600000 .50 inch front sight base, flat top on rear ring, unmarked.
SA Gas Cylinder Lock B147426 Type 1 July/1940 to March/1945 50000 - 3592000 Front face chamfered,no hump, unmarked. 1.225 - 1.335 inches high. Unmarked.
SA Gas Cylinder Lock Screw(Plug) B147428 Type 1 July/1940 to January/1944 50000 - 2500000 Single slot, no valve/poppet. Unmarked.
SA Hammer C46008-3 SA Type 2C June/1942 to June/1943 680001 - 1630000 Drawing number on face, late hooks, no tooling hole.
SA Hammer Pin A13668 N/A January/1936 to December/1957 1 - 6100500
SA Hammer Spring B8887 N/A January/1936 to November/1957 1 - 6100500 20 coils
SA Hammer Spring Housing B8883 Type 2 July/1940 to December/1957 50001 - 6100500 45 degree slant cut at ends of safety slot
SA Hammer Spring Plunger B8880 Type 1 January/1936 to October/1945 1 - 3888081 1.542 inches long, "winged" head, 0.459 inches wide.
SA Handguard Clip N/A Type 3 August/1942 to December/1957 800001 - 6100500 Stamped steel, flat profile, no groove.
SA Handguard Ferrule N/A Type 2 June/1940 to December/1957 50001 - 6100500 Lip protruding .06 inches from rear barrel hole.
SA Handguard Liner B8893 Type 3 July/1940 to December/1957 50001 - 6100500 Unmarked. Front hole is .350 inches from edge, rear hole is .490 inches from edge. Notch is .70 inches wide by .15 inches deep.
SA Lower Band C46000 Type 2 October/1940 to June/1943 70001 - 1650000 Stamped arched profile with no groove or scallops. Unmarked.
SA Lower Band Pin N/A Type 1 January/1936 to December/1951 1 - 3888999 Solid pin.
SA Operating Rod D35382 6 SA 5 October/1942 to December/1943 940001 - 2250000 Straight bolt lug, no radius cut, curved side, marking on bottom
SA Operating Rod Catch Assembly C46027 Type 2 July/1942 to December/1957 700001 - 6100500 Unmarked. Right fork 0.10 in wide and Left fork 0.07 in wide, width at accelerator rivet 0.79 in.
SA Operating Rod Spring SA14675/B147658 N/A December/1940 to December/1957 160001 - 6100500 Round cross section.
SA Rear Hand Guard C46024 Type 2 March/1941 to December/1957 200001 - 6100500 Operating rod clearance cut on right rear.
SA Rear Sight Base C46001 Type 2 October/1940 to December/1957 75001 - 6100500 No "C46001" stamped on the flat underside, machined with a "squared" off area behind hole for elevation/windage knob shaft. No concentric ring around hole for elevation pinion/windage knob assembly.
SA Rear Sight Cover B8872 Type 2 December/1940 to December/1957 95001 - 6100500 No drawing number marked. Reinforcing indentations on top and edges.
SA Rear Sight Lock Nut N/A Type 2B November/1942 to January/1944 1000001 - 2500000 Locking bar, long pinion, 8-36NF thread, with rounded ends and rounded binding ridges.
SA Receiver D28291-17 N/A February/1942 to April/1943 490001 - 1500000
SA Safety C46015-9SA Type 3B August/1942 to October/1943 750001 - 2000000 Rounded upper side and top, tooling hole
SA Stacking Swivel B8891 N/A January/1936 to December/1957 1 - 6100500 Up to serial# 20000 were marked "B8891".
SA Stacking Swivel Screw N/A N/A January/1936 to December/1957 1 - 6100500
SA Stock D35647 Type 2C November/1942 to October/1943 950001 - 2092000 .81/.81 butt stock holes, 1.75 inch channel, Straight clip latch relief, S.A./E.McF.(with .437 Ordnance Wheel,.188 Ordnance Wheel on bottom of pistol grip)
SA Stock Ferrule Assembly C40613 Type 3C March/1942 to December/1957 510001 - 6100500 2 piece stamped steel/grazed construction. 0.190 inch hole at bottom of U shaped channel.
SA Trigger C46020 Type 2 November/1940 to December/1957 80001 - 6100500 No tooling hole. No markings.
SA Trigger Guard C46025 Type 1G December/1941 to July/1944 425001 - 3000000 Milled, rear hole. May show various inspectors numbers or initials. No Markings.
SA Trigger Housing D28290-8-SA Type 7 October/1942 to December/1942 880001 - 1010000 Cloverleaf hole, pad width 0.156 inch.
SA Trigger Pin A13669 N/A January/1936 to December/1957 1 - 6100500

Quote:

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Originally Posted by browningautorifle

I think if you look, we have a sticky on it too... try this one.

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We have lots of appropriate stickies on site!

The FM mentioned above:

FM23-5, U.S. RIFLE CALIBER .30 MANUAL for M1 Garand Service Rifle

And:

M1 Garand Handling (Stripping & Assembling)

How to remove rear guard "VIDEO"

M1 Garand Lesson Bolt assembly "Video"

etc.

OK,
Right I have started to strip the M1.
It is durty. Dirty old dry oil / greese with dust.

The question is :-
do I clean or do i not clean ?

It is hard to see serial No,s withh the muck and
I dont have however any intention of ever shooting the gun
as
one, I do not want too,
two, I do not have any amo. no cases, Not a problem though as I can make the cases and everything else necessary to reload.
Three, I do not have any charger clips.
So to not touch just a take apart and record what I see may be one way.
To clean and remove all muck and re greese, well that is the other way.

The wood needs to be fed that is for sure, just one tiny crack in the top rear hand gard not a worry though.
The surfase of the blued areas have a patina a sort of corrosion with no pitting but the surfaces are not smooth.
I cannot see anything broken, there are now odd spots clean because I have worked the action a bit.
The internals are in a very good condition, just the tube has the patina as well.

For me to clean or not is a hard one.
Sorry spelling is a little off today.

I would go ahead and clean it to stop further decay. Rust will consume it over time and should be dealt with. You don't have to strip it to silver but clean and oil and remove the greatest part of the rust. A varsol bath and some fine steel woll will probably do the most of it. The wood needs a drink for sure. There's many wood products available and the opinions of what exactly to use vary as much as the availability of product.

By the way, a full pic expose would be nice as you work...

There is no real rust but to prevent any other deteration I did gove it a a spray lube silicone, the wood I will give it a good drink with a thin wood oil, do use a lot of teak oil on my other stocks mainly as I like the smell and it is a non staining colour.

FWIW, the Preservation expert at SANHS insisted that "Wood does not need to be fed." He uses microwax on the collection.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Griff Murphey

Sounds like the family gave it a break. Good to see it survive. Too many ignorant people turn these in for destruction by the police. A gun friend who works for Goodwill industries says they get guns all the time and Goodwill makes them turn them in to the cops for destruction. I always watch the video footage of police "buy-backs" to see what history is being lost...

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Like I really believe all that history is really destroyed by the cops. The question is more likely is how many don't find their way to the chopper.

I found my dads WW2 rifle range score book from boot camp in San Diago USMC from 1942. His serial number of his Springfield was 1007815. I also have a letter he wrote his parents telling them they got issued the new M1 Garand rifles.

People sure have a lot more self control than I do,because after I stabilized the rusting and checked the bore,I'd have to shoot it...at least once :lol:

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Originally Posted by Prince Humperdink

I'd have to shoot it

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I probably would too...

I know I would.

Just started cleaning the M1.
I have started to put parts in to a sonic cleaner, there is alot of dry hars grease.
I am not going to take a wire brush or wire wool to the parts as I
want to preserve the patina that is there so mugh history in the ageing.
so NO polishing.
Does every part have a serial No ?
as I cannot see numbers on some parts.

On an M1 rifle the serial number was only applied to the receiver. What might be referred to as part numbers were applied to some of the larger parts (receiver, barrel, bolt, hammer, trigger housing, operating rod, gas cylinder) that usually consisted of a letter (C or D) representing a drawing size, a number representing the drawing number, and the manufacturer's identification (SA - Springfield Armory, WRA - Winchester Repeating Arms and etc.). A dash followed by a number indicted the revision number to the drawing. Obviously the lower the revision number the earlier the part was manufactured.

With these revision numbers modern C&R collectors have gone a little berserk to exchange parts, that were replaced, with parts that are "correct" for their rifle. This generated by the johnny-come-lately C&R writers that have published this information.

Since the military history of this piece stopped apparently sometime during WWII it can be expected that most, if not all, of the parts are original to it and the drawing revision numbers on the parts are "correct." If no parts were replaced on the rifle, which may be indicated by the drawing revision numbers, then it can be a statistically useful piece to further document the general time period these parts were assembled to rifles. BTW these revision numbers will not all be the same, as revisions to the drawings were made independently and at different times.

Have been cleaning this evening.
Gave up on the idea of no metal brushes and had to use a soft bronze one.
The crud is like the overheated oil in a car engine dry with dust and baked on.
The sonic cleaner did a bit in getting it off but time and effort did the rest and then dack into the sonic bath to get rid of the last loose bits;
Not a 100 percent finish but good enough for me.
I have 2 pics to start,
first for "imoore" as he had a questim 4 yrs ago about it the mag foller.
The second is t show the crud.
The other pics I hope to do Sunday, with what seria Nos have found, all so far are SA marked.

If you let that soak for a bit in varsol it may make that stuff return to it's muddy consistency.

I have made a start.

Trigger Block D28290--SA
Hammer C46008-3-SA
Saftey Bar C26015-9SA
Bolt D28287-12SA and below W9B
Return Spring Tube D35332-6-SA

Some pics to follow.

We need a little nomenclature drill: The part that holds the trigger and hammer is the trigger housing, and the whole assembly is the trigger group; the safety is just safety; the "tube housing" is the operating rod and the number is 35382 not 332.

Thanks.
Wife confirms as an 8.
Terms for things well I think in a mx of French and uk english,
so I tend to say things as I see them, I have to keep checking my spelling as a result.
US terminoligy is not therefore in my vocabulary.

Thanks
pics being sorted as I type be up soon.

Suggest Army Field Manual 23-5, available as a reprint cheap. All you need to know.

If any one wants others please ask and I will take some.
But be exat with the part and what bit to photo.

Are the part numbers in the right range so far for November 42?

I attended the Veterans Day event at the George Patton Memorial Museum today. The museum is located near the original headquarters of the DTC, commemorates the Desert Training Center that Patton selected to train the troops that would be deployed to North Africa.

Late in the event I noticed a man holding a rusted rifle M1 that was complete except all the wood was missing. The steel, except for the gas cylinder, gas cylinder lock, and gas cylinder lock screw was very corroded. I asked the man if the rifle had been found in the DTC area and he said it was. The serial number was readable enough to see it was six digit starting with a "6". He went on to explain that he was the archeologists working for the Bureau of Land Management, and had recovered quite a few items of equipment from the area. As it turns out the rifle remains were being presented to the Museum for the collection of DTC items. I had my camera with me and didn't have the presence of mind to to take images, but just imagine an m1 rifle badly rusted and complete except for the stock and hand guards. There was no sign of cartridges or a clip in the receiver so the rifle was unloaded at the time it was lost.

The "tank park" has about five M60A1 tanks, (some of which are in poor condition missing major components) an M26 that has two serious hits in the bottom of the gun mantlet, and an M4 that is pocked all over from some kind of explosive round hits, none of which penetrated the armor. The museum has a rather jumbled display of U.S. and foreign equipment most of it related to WWII, the DTC or Gen. Patton.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by bob seijas

Suggest Army Field Manual 23-5, available as a reprint cheap. All you need to know.

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Available free for download HERE on this site.

Bob

Quote:

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Originally Posted by read6737

Are the part numbers in the right range so far for November 42?

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I thought I better get back to you since no one else seems to want to take this on. From what I can see, the parts you've shown are correct for your rifle. The rear sight lock bar has been identified as a T2 and the book shows a T1...but I wouldn't worry about that. I'd like to have time and the rifle in hand to do up a complete sheet on it. Lots of the little parts I can't tell just by looking. The follower has a number on the bottom but it wasn't mentioned. I wouldn't worry about it, I'm willing to accept this rifle as complete and correct as issued, because it really wouldn't have had any time to be diddled with. A man was issued and came forward with a serviceable rifle. He was probably disabled so that he couldn't retain his weapon, to whatever extent and here it is. Someone was either going to use these two as an assist to liberate the country or they just wanted a couple for a rainy day. There would have been lots lying around initially...I don't recall you telling us what shape the barrel was in after all this time. But, looking at the trigger mech inside...?

Of course, the rifle could also be a product of the field armory on the Normandy beach describe by Ernie Pyle, picked up out of the surf or off a battlefield. Their method was to break the rifle down into its components and throw the useable parts into cans of solvent. After soaking and brushing they sorted the parts into piles and then assembled rifles by grabbing parts with no care for manufacturer. It could be entirely or partly a mixmaster. It would be a period correct mixmaster, but still a mixmaster. American weapons were designed to have all their parts interchangeable for a reason.

This is not to denigrate the weapon in question but to remind everyone of how maintenance was done back then and what the possibilities are.

Bob

Well it is well gumed up.
Just taken me ages to remove the gas tub.
The first 2 parts came off ever so easily but the tube needed plenty of help.
A piece of hard wood was no good, soft steel bar and a hammer worked with NO damage.
First top hand gard came off but the second not, the U support just twists 2mm and will not budge.
Just having to take my time.
More pics soon and numbers if I see any.

"second not, the U support just twists 2mm and will not budge."

Don't try to twist it off, slide it forward.

Got it off in the end.

the number on the cannon is D35448-16-R 8SA

Interesting, a saw cut gas cylinder at the sight base. So there has been some fiddling. But still, the solid gas cylinder lock screw. Is that a machined bullet guide?

OK
What are the other markings on the cannon?
the bullet guide does not look hand cut but it is a bit caroded.
I cannot see any saw marks on the tube below the sights,
am I missing something.

Does any one want me to photo anything else or something in more detail ?????????

The gas cylinder has a transverse saw cut from left to right at an angle. This is to tighten it up on the barrel when you tighten the front sight screw. The numbers you speak of are drawing numbers and inspector's marks.

If you mean the cut that runs down fron the sight locking dove tale,
then yes it does loon a little rough on the edges.
can see the reason for the cut,
did it become a standard modification?
or a manufacturing addition?
What is the meaning of the inspectors marks if there is any?
and are the numbers ending SA the right age for the date?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by read6737

did it become a standard modification?

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Yes, it was a mod to tighten a loose gas cylinder.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by read6737

What is the meaning of the inspectors marks if there is any?

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There is a meaning but I don't have it. They all appear at different stages of manufacture.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by read6737

Are the numbers ending SA the right age for the date?

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From what I saw yes. The barrel is marked for date of manufacture on the side under the Op Rod Handle...

Could we say gas cylinder instead of tube? I don't mean to be pedantic, but it's a little jarring.

See...now he has me doing it too...

Just to repeat I think in French, and the French tend to disctibe things as they are seen and one part may have more than one name.
The Garand is the first non bolt action rifle I have ever had
and us rifles have never been my interest;
I stopped the sale a few weeks ago of the rifle so I could strip it and photo for you lot and to increase my interest in it.
I have always prefered German rifles to shoot, better quality. I was the regional champion a few years ago shooting militery rifles over 200 meters with open sights with a
K98 in 8X64mns Brenneke very similar to the wild cat round 8mm/06, just one step below a magnum just a bit more powerfull than the standard 8X57.

Don't worry about it, I think he was speaking to me more because I know better. We're just glad you came back after that amount of time to do a full comprehensive of the rifle. Can't say I agree that German rifles are better quality though...

Quote:

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Originally Posted by read6737

Just to repeat I think in French, and the French tend to disctibe things as they are seen and one part may have more than one name.
The Garand is the first non bolt action rifle I have ever had
and us rifles have never been my interest;
I stopped the sale a few weeks ago of the rifle so I could strip it and photo for you lot and to increase my interest in it.
I have always prefered German rifles to shoot, better quality. I was the regional champion a few years ago shooting militery rifles over 200 meters with open sights with a
K98 in 8X64mns Brenneke very similar to the wild cat round 8mm/06, just one step below a magnum just a bit more powerfull than the standard 8X57.

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We have a fellow from Guatemala on the forum I moderate. His parents are from Spain and he grew up speaking Spanish and English in the home. His grammar, spelling, and syntax are better than many of the forum members that are US citizens with college educations. I asked him once if he formed his thoughts in Spanish or English when he spoke each language. He said he thinks in whichever language he is using at the moment and often forgets which he was using later when recalling something he read. This is in contrast to others that I have asked that learned their second language later in life, even in early adolescence. These folks say they think in their first language and translate in their head as they speak. I assume you do the same? But do not let the part nomenclature worry you. While it may not be the proper name, we know what you mean.

I have followed this thread with interest and look forward to your additional photos. I do hope that you fire the M1 once you get it all cleaned up and back together. Properly tuned and using good ammo, a good M1 is a wonderful thing to have. If you can't find anyone local that is knowledgeable in tuning the M1, you can always come here. There are tutorials to assist you.

I have 11 M1's in the collection, this one is not the prettiest, but it shoots the best.
Yes, I know "Too" is misspelled on the sign. It was a birthday gift from the wife so I don't mention that.
https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...b5a416a3-1.jpg

Yes I did realy learn most of my French in later life I had I went to collage here to train as an electrician.
I am also a shooting instructer and a compertition judge both cources I took here.
I think in French when taling about my work and fire arms.
I do think in english alot but thinking in French at many other times.
I mix mainly with the French not the english.
I have a French client and his wife both speek fluent english and are conversations switch mid centence between the 2 languages. Depending and the easest way to say something.

back to the M1
I dont plan to shoot it at all, no 30/06 rounds.
Could make some but well hummmmmmm
I do find the M1 rather big and heavy compaired the the K98 and the MAS 36 it just does not feel quitr me to hold.
well as it is now in bits it may just stay that way, at least for a while just in case some one wants pics, I dont want to strip it again. Dont want to break anything as I think it will be hard to find the parts.
The inside of the cannon is not blocked,
but I cannot see the state of the lands and groves even with a light.

OK some more exciting pics.

The box markings are R 33 D 28291-17

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