A discussion has re-emerged as to what cameras and settings seem to be best for posting pics of small gun parts. What say you?
A discussion has re-emerged as to what cameras and settings seem to be best for posting pics of small gun parts. What say you?
Attachment 14155Phil,
One of the keys I am trying to master is proper lighting. I do use the micro setting, but I turn the flash completely off. This will usually decrease the shudder speed and make it stay open longer (My digital cameras all have an auto f-stop fuction) so I have to be concerned with shaking the camera. I have started using a small tripod from an old sighting scope for the small work and a standard tripod for larger items. I also use the auto timer - push the shudder release, move may hands off the camera and 9 seconds later the shudder clicks. This keeps me from shaking the picture.
I also take a billion pics and I usually move the lights around just a tab between shots. One of these days I'm going to actually learn how to set the lights up the best way to begin with.
Once I take all the pics I want, I down load them onto the computer and then use photoshop to adjust the light and crop the photos. I have taken alot of closeup pics just in case something happens and I have to make an insurance claim.
I think the two simplest and best things you can do to get good close-ups is to use a tripod and also a three second delay, so you aren't actually touching the camera as it takes the photo.
There's tons of things you can do with different camera settings and lighting, but keeping the camera still is the most important aspect with close-up photos, regardless of pixels used, lens quality, ect. - If the camera moves very little at such a close distance, it will mess up the image.
https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...280x7682-1.jpg
I use a Canon 40D with a 18-55 IS USM lens, 10 megapixels, in Macro. It's my wife's camera. She knows all the buttons, I don't. I just point, it auto focues, and then shoot. My 2 megapixel Olympus was easier and the photos came out just as good. But it was stolen out of the car.
Background and lighting seems to make a difference for auto focus cameras. I some times put down a colored towel for a neutral back drop so it focuses on the item. Sometimes take photos inside with the flash, sometimes outside with natural light. If outdoors angle can make shadows. I haven't tried a tripod, sounds like a good idea, a bit steadier then older hands.
I load it to my desktop. Canon gave us a program with the camera, kind of like photo shop. I can then crop out the excess background, adj size, color, brightness.
Then it can be sent to a file or Photobucket and used as needed.
Seems to take clear pictures. Usually shows more then my eyes see, sample.
https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...Machine2-1.jpg
I use a Sony Digital Mavica (MVC FD73). It's big and square and is, I think, one of the fiirst digitals ever invented ! A relic. Although not a macro camera, it's what I use for gun parts. Seems to work better than anything else I have tried. Here's an overstamp.
I have a Nikon D50 and it's really hard to take a bad photo with it. I generally just use all the automatic settings and experiment with and without flash on close up metal parts. Some show better with flash but most tend to do better without.
All good advice. Most any digital camera is capable of taking really good macro shots if you do your part. As mentioned by others, a tripod is probably the most important part in getting sharp pictures. It doesn't matter how high the megapixel if there is camera movement the picture will be blurry. Also use a neutral colored background. Depending on the light meter setting, your camera will normally average the scene and if a large area of the picture is a white background, the object being photographed will be on the dark side. I use my old Canon A80 on manual setting and set the ISO as low as it will go. The ISO lets you shoot in lower light, but at the expense of less sharp pictures.
Download your pictures to a desktop and crop out all the unneeded area. Your pictures will look better and you aren't using up valuable space on the site.
I use a SONY DSC-P51 2.0 megapixels I know I have had for 10+ years, I cant find my instruction book. Do any of you have experience with this type. I am old school, pull it out of the box and take pictures until they come out. I dont like the little menu's, too many options. What should I be looking for? In a close-up more or less pixels? and if someone has used this type camara, it sure would be easier to just read this post, than to look over over my house for the instruction book.
Phil,
Canon, Sony, Nikon. You don't need an expensive camera for good photos but you do need a top-of-the-line tripod. There are no two ways about it. Digital cameras are very forgiving, if your photos are bad, you see them right away, erase them and take more. It takes some practice, that's all. $200-$300 will easily buy what you need today for your casual needs.
I am using a Kodak Easy Share C140 with Auto Focus for $ 84. Works good.
Regards
Gunner
Gunner. please give us a close up pic of the of the markings on that left hand receiver rail. Many Thanks. Mike.
Hi Mike,
i´ll do that as soon as i am back from bowhunting at our 3D course!
See you later
Gunner
I really ought to buy a "real" camera. I either borrow a fairly decent SLR digital Sony or use my "prize" for 20yrs faithful service: a Fujifilm A170 "toy camera". All my good cameras date to the film era. But the tripods still come in handy.
If I could figure out how to keep the little Fujifilm's flash from overpowering the photo I'd call it servicable, but it's right annoying, esp. because I don't have much time from work lately to do much of any fancy photo work. Gotta be fast! And have run-on sentences!
Quick handheld photo w/ the Fujifilm:
https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...stuff019-1.jpg
Annoying flash washout!:https://www.milsurps.com/images/imported/deleted.gif
It also wants to focus on the background as there's no manual focus, but I'm learning to work around it. (slowly)
JM,
Turn your flash off and set a slower shutter speed. Many have the misconception that you need a flash, even indoors, which is not always true. Or set your flash to the lowest brightness it will shoot at.
Autofocus in macro mode can sometimes be tricky/annoying too. I use an Olympus 3040Z and sometimes I have to fool the camera into focusing on what I want rather than what it thinks I want. And don't need any special "camera software". Works just like a floppy drive and Irfanview has hall the photoprocessing functions I need for free.
CC,
Take your photo from further back (12-16") at the largest size you can take, crop out what you don't want so it pulls it in closer. That method will focus the photo on a larger area. You can still use your macro close-up setting. It's difficult to explain because all the cameras are different. Just practice it.
You make me realize I haven't the foggiest idea HOW to make this camera do tricks! It's too simple appearing. I need manual controls for everything, then it's all visible and I can sort it out. "Menus" and a book manual that was pretty much worthless have wrecked the learning curve! (And to think I spent summers back in the stone age doing catalog photography, as an assistant, w/ a 4"x5" portrait camera....)Quote:
Originally Posted by Ramboueille
I now use a Sony a350. It's what I used in the recent Bavarian series. But it doesn't take any better photos than my old Koduck. It's got more bells and whistles than I know what to do with.
Johnny is correct. A good tripod is a big piece of the puzzle. And like Tired Retired. I also use an old spotting scope tripod with good success on the small pieces. Works real good on top of the island in the middle of our kitchen. Recently got a wide-dangle ;-) lens I'm farting with for bigger stuff.
If your camera has the feature, I find a remote shutter release is VERY handy. Keeps the worry out of being close. !!
Ronnie, aka Jim
P.S. Film is "cheap". Shoot lots of photos at different settings/angles
JM,
You're no different than anyone else using a new digital camera. Most of us, except the professionals, use 25% of the features that an intermediate digital camera offers. I only use "auto" controls for outside family photos, for gun and parts photos, it's manual settings and a good tripod, and practice. My son and I bought a top notch tripod (~$90) a few years ago and that purchase was a "no brainer." They are universal and will fit most all digital cameras if you want detailed photos of guns and parts.
Photo taken from my workbench a year ago (Canon A620, three years old) on a tripod from 16" under florescent lights (alleged to be a big no-no but not true), manual settings. I am not a professional by any stretch but this photo would publish commercially easy. Use a neutral backgound that doesn't clash.
Attachment 14172
I agree with Ron here....Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim Nasium
At very close distances, the act of pushing the button can move the camera ever so slightly, even when using a tripod. Most cameras have a delay setting (sometimes used to take photos of yourself, etc) -
Many cameras have a delay as short as one or two seconds, and I use it so I don't disrupt the camera when the photo is actually taken. I think it's as important as the tripod.
I hope this is understandable, as it's a good tool in getting clear macro photos.
These were taken with an older inexpensive Sony with only a bipod and three second delay.
https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...49Medium-1.jpg
https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...993Large-1.jpg
https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...ashHider-1.jpg
https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...1024x768-1.jpg
https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...bineM1A1-1.jpg
https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...024x7681-1.jpg
https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...10/07/33-1.jpg
https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...10/07/FN-1.jpg
cafdfw,
And a good example that you don't need a $1,200 SLR digital camera as an amateur!
Exactly!
The one I use for photos is a beat up Sony S85 and you can get them for cheap. Same with lots of other cameras.
(If you don't need a TON of bells and whistles and a HUGE zoom lens, you can get quite a bit for very little these days)
Here's a quick scan I did on ebay for Sony S85
sony s85 items - Get great deals on Cameras Photo, Electronics items on eBay.com!
Attachment 14186Attachment 14185
Hi Mike the markings are weak and not clear to see but they are from left to right: Cologne Proofmark, German Nitro proofmark and the number 94. The Cologne Proofmark is the third from left in the smaller pic.
Regards
Gunner
One trick I was told to keep the flash from washing out is to put scotch tape over the flash!Quote:
Originally Posted by jmoore
A finger works too, but it makes everything sort of pink...:madsmile:
(photo cropped but otherwise "as shot")
https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...stuff013-1.jpg
Of course, it can be "fixed" somewhat...
https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...stuff014-1.jpg
:rolleyes:
jmoore,
After cropping, you can go back and adj brightness, contrast, mid range, colors, red eye, and other things. That should bring it back or close to original coloring.
Jim
Almost B&W, but red is gone.
https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo.../3448l1u-1.jpg
Maybe it was a gray towel originally? :D
With macro setting, I use 3X200 watt bulbs,in mny saferoom...
Andy
I have a cannon digital rebel XT
It is 8 megapixel and has all the bells and whistles that they had 6 years ago when we bought it. I can take great pics with it, but we bought some better lenses with a higher F-stop. I struggle with lighting. I also started using a tripod after this conversation came up the first time. On the other hand I have a point and shoot underwater digital camera that under the right conditions can take every bit as good of pics. Another thing that is very important is what you are using for a background. bright, or very dark backgrounds can influence the color of you pics. You can make things look kind of how you want if you know how to use the background colors and lighting.
Assuming, of course, that your's and everyone else's monitor is "calibrated" to the same standards. People tend to adjust their monitors for what looks good to them, including their own pictures. Ever seen your pics on two different computers? It's "amazing" how "different" the images can appear. Real problem when trying to "sell" onlineQuote:
That should bring it back or close to original coloring.
I went and modified that pink picture (and managed not to save the original) before reading the updated thread, so I added a similar photo above the old one. (does that mess up the rest of y'all, or is the link to the original broken when omeone else adjusts it on their own? Doesn't look to have hurt anyone else's efforts yet!)
Sorry for the distraction!
Ramboueille,Quote:
Originally Posted by Ramboueille
We tried using the wife's A620 on auto-focus Macro and noticed a strange quirk in the camera.
The auto-focus would perfectly zero in on the target for about half a second and then focus elsewhere. I reset the camera software and such but never solved that quirk.
The Canon support website was no help.
You ever notice that or did you go directly to manual?
My Fujifilm A170 does the same thing many times- That's why I'm now using the gray towel- it's can be "scrunched up" to bring the background closer to the same focal plane as the object of interest. More than the crazy flash, I dislike NOT having a manual focus!Quote:
Originally Posted by phil441
Phil,Quote:
Originally Posted by phil441
Turn it off then back on. You're probably focusing too close and the camera doesn't know what to focus on with competing surfaces. Background should be a felt type neutral color surface without roughness. A plain bathroom towel may not be good if the weave is coarse because the camera can focus on the individual pile. On "auto" with the close-up (macro) turned on, take as large a photo as you can (Memu > "L" 3024 x 2304) from further back (12 - 16"), then crop out what you don't want which will pull what you do want to a close-up. Hopefully you're using a good tripod. It's really needed because when you crop it, any blurriness or unsteadiness will be very evident. I rarely use "Auto" settings for close-ups because you can't set shutter speed and "F" stops manually but try it on "Auto" anyhow.
There's many ways to "skin a cat" with these digital cameras today but you have to try out different settings, and their sensors are getting better all the time.