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well 1st want to say Hi. 2nd I traded for an early inland M1 serial # mid 300,000 range with a dated inland barrel 4-43, overall the gun seems to be all Inland with the exception of the recoil plate. the stock is (was) a beautiful inland with correct markings, until I forced the oiler out and took a nice chunk out of the stock, so now that its not perfect anymore I ordered a new stock set from CMP and want to have the metal reparked, who is the best at this type of work?
Contact Chuckindenver on the 1917 board. He's done several repark jobs for me at reasonable prices and turnaround time
thank you sir.
It's yours to do with as you deem best, of course, but have you determined it's not all original yet? It would be a shame to alter an original gun for appearance sake. Plenty of knowledge on this forum if you'd like to investigate parts markings.
Hi and welcome; If you took a chip out of stock it may be fixable!
thanks for the info guys, as far as I can tell it has the type I hammer, and evry internal part is marked either inland or a correct inland stamp as in I-P on the early operating rod and right now i cannot remember them all, but I did strip it and look up every part and they are all correct . I am fairly certain that the stock would not be original as it is not a high wood and i think it should have been for a mid 300,000 rifle and there are no arsenal rework stamps on the stock. I have a feeling that I am going to send it to DGR and et them have at it. kind of a shame because the metal is probably 80%+ park remaining.
If it has 80% plus park, leave it at is. That is my advice.
bob34787
Could you post some pictures of it before you send it off ?
I'm sure there are many members here that would love to see it....... It's a big part of what we do ! I call it STOCK.. METAL and AWE !
Just curious about the metals finish color and condition. Along with the part Types , Milling styles, markings and the P proof stamp (s) on the barrel.
A Op Slide marked I-P would be a early Irwin-Pedersen part, being a Type II or Type III.
Which may be correct if there's any record of part transfers from IP to Inland.
The early Inland slides were marked with a circled PI or a underlined PI
It would be a wise move to further study such a early carbine before sending it off for any re-work.
Please consider downloading a copy of the Carbine Club data sheet and filling it out before you have anything done to it.
Carbine Club Data Sheet can be downloaded from this site... Near the bottom of the page-
http://www.carbineclub.com/
Regards,
Charlie-painter777
P.S. Include a picture of the damaged stock. There are a few here that can repair these, as Shadycon was getting around to.
O.K I can see I must pay more attention, getting old sucks, my slide is P.I I was working from memory, glad to take photos but do not know how to post them
M1 Carbine slide mine is identical in all respects to this one, also has the type I dogleg hammer marked either IH OR HI depending on how you look at it. Next question, I just got a DGR highwood stock with a type 2 finish, is this a good one? try this link for the chipped stock, I hope it works
Picasa Web Albums: free photo sharing from Google trigger group Picasa Web Albums - robert schmidt - Untitled Album
bob34787, Hi and welcome to the forum. The pic of the stock didn't come through. Can you try the photo of the stock again? Like Charlie and Shadycon said it can be repaired. Keep the chip, and you will get some guidence on fixing it. You will then have the right stock and that is a plus.....Frank
well lets try this Picasa Web Albums - robert schmidt - Untitled Album
bob, thats not to bad. I can't tell how deep it is, but I believe you can glue it and it will almost be unnoticeable, and stronger than before. A little traction to the front and a soft jaw clamp to the side over night. I'm thinking gorilla glue. The glue will ooze out of the crack, so keep the clamps away from getting glue under them. Then a razor blade to gently remove the excess glue should do it. Lets see what Painter recomends. There is no rush getting it done, so take your time.....Frank
I would'nt use Gorilla Glue; it expands as it dries. I'd try carpenter's glue if it were me. JMHO, or course.
Donzi
Brush (this works glue into the fibers of the crack to make a stronger repair) on a liberal amount of “Elmer’s Wood Glue” to both chip and stock. Place chip back in place, use sliding motion (don’t just place the chip back in place) to get wood grain to align and hold. Cover repair area with wax paper, place in “TIGHT”, well padded vice overnight. Use razor blade lightly to remove excess glue from repair area. Rub repair area with “Murphy Oil Soap”.
Just my $.02
thanks all, I will try those ideas and see what happens.
If done properly, Gorilla-Glua, although it does expand, make the best repair.
1.) lightly clean both sides to be glued.
2.) Apply the Gorilla--Glue to the inside outline of both parts, slightly in from the sgde, plus a line down the center lengthwise.
3.) Slide smaller piece into the larger making sure that the lines match. Press down and hold for about two minutes.
4.) Using half of a Butter-bowl lid(My favorite carding device) scrape excess glue off of wood.
5.) Clamp tightly in a wood pipe-clamp overnight.
6.) Remove clamp and with a razor-blade lightly scrape off any excess glue. Repair will be invisiable if you do it right.
Dave, good advise. I have done this repair with Gorilla Glue and it does work the best. It will break anywhere but where it was glued!
Bill & Dave, I agree with Gorilla Glue.:thup: I've used it several times on many different repairs with excellent results. That's the way I would go:cheers:.....Frank
thanks all, I a going to experiment today as I just rec'd my replacement stock yesterday I am feeling more brave.
Once it is reparked, everything is gone along with a large part of the value. Recently BQ pointed out that there are far more originals out there than are thought to be. An original with a poor finish is still worth 2-3 times what a reparked part gun would fetch. If I wanted a new fresh reparked carbine, I would find a rack grade mixmaster and ruin that. I'm not kidding when I say ruin. A fine aged patina beats a new finish every time in my world. Even regular firearms are downgraded when reblued.
jury is still out on the repark and I still have the OI stock and hand guard which I ran thru the dishwasher and looks really good just can't get past that crack. It looks better now than it did, you have to hold it just right in the light to see it. I do like the Dupage stock though. High wood oval sling cutout and 2 rivet guard. I will have to take some good pics and see what you guys think about the rifle finish.