What procedure and cleaner works best?
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What procedure and cleaner works best?
"Charlie Painter 777" is the wood guru. I just washed mine down with warm mineral spirits/boiled Linseed oil and cheese cloth to get the crud off, then used BLO to finish it.
I use this method. It works perfectly.
Typically, you can put this mixture in a 20 oz. water bottle, some disfiguring of the bottle will
occur, but it should be good for quite some time.
4 ounces of De-natured Alcohol
4 ounces of Turpentine
4 ounces of Raw Linseed Oil (I never tried BLO)
and 1 ounce of Ammonia
When using it on the stock, scrub with steel wool or possibly a green scratchy. How dirty the
stock is, will determine how many times you have to use it. Typically, for a M1 Garrand Stock
from Korea - you know the really grungy ones, it will take 2 or 3 "treatments". Wipe the stock
with a disposable rag with Mineral Spirits in between applications. Also, let the stock set for a
day between treatments - you are using Linseed Oil here.
Due to the Linseed Oil, your stock is pretty much "Finished" when you're done cleaning it. A
quick go over with my 1/3 Mix and you'll be done. If you have any questions or suggestions, as
always, feel free to email them to me.
I got this from the Tom's 1/3 mix page.
Wulf's method sounds good. I understand it's hard to find raw linseed oil, but that's the best oil to use on it and is actually the WWII correct stock maintenance oil. If you can get any RLO, a simple cleaning/treating fluid is 1:1 Turpentine:RLO.
Hobby Lobby has the linseed oil that you seek.Quote:
Originally Posted by INLAND44
What's the difference between raw and boiled linseed oil.
Raw is period correct.Quote:
Originally Posted by DaveN
Here is what you will get at Hobby Lobby
Boiling.Quote:
Originally Posted by DaveN
Raw linseed oil is just oil extracted from the flax seed. A paint maker then heats it and boils it for awhile, following the temperature and viscosity. They also usually ad a "drier" to the oil before packaging.
Linseed oil reacts with oxygen in the air at the double bonds (unsaturation) to form a solid film. During the boiling process, some of the double bonds react. The drier is an organic salt of a metal (Pb, Ca, Cu for example). The metal ion catalyzes the reaction with the oxygen.
The final result is that the film forms much quicker with the boiled linseed oil, and it doesn't shrink as much resulting in a more glossy surface.
Rustship, that is not the bottles I get from Hobby Lobby.
Back in the day we were told to use BLO, not raw. Because raw would just keep soaking into the wood and really build up. Where BLO would seal off and not build up in the wood. I remember stripping a stock that I had used raw on. It took forever to get it stripped.
Can I just use Tung Oil with cheese cloth? These procedures are just way over the top for what I am trying to accomplish.
xxxxx
Raw Linseed oil is also found in the dietary food section at drug and grocery stores. It's sold as FLAX OIL or FLAX SEED oil. It'll be sold in a dark colored bottle. It probably won't have any additives in it. If you don't like it on your stock you can also take 1tsp twice a day for the OMEGA-3 in it. I prefer in on my old stocks tho.
I've never used tung oil, but cleaning it with BLO/mineral spirits, air dry, then rub in a couple coats of BLO is really easy and works well. I know others that use tug oil the way you want, and it works fine.
Rocky, sounds like you only want to do a light wipe down and recoat. You can use about anything that is a cleaner: Simple Green works to get hand grime off. So does alchohol, min spirits, and if I want a slightly more aggressive cleaner I use acetone. Finish with 50/50 BLO/Min spirits and let dry.
I by no means an x pert, but I have used simple green on new cmp stocks and some missed matched hand guards to then stain to darken and tung oil with varnish (would not do any of this on a nice authentic stock of any period) but a little simple green and then linseed oil would be all on a period stock. The one new stock came out like a finished piece of furniture. or a drill rifle/ modern hunting rifle. no harm no foul.
There ya go!Quote:
Originally Posted by ulflyer
RLO is not a 'finish' per se as much as treatment. The idea is that it soaks into the wood and does not 'dry' on the surface, creating a gloss that would not be desirable on a military weapon. Still, it does manage to give the stock a sheen over time which is very easy to remove by steam or just washing. Blo acts more like a varnish in that it will dry and build up on the surface forming a hard finish. RLO is applied with a small cloth or rifle cleaning patch in small quantities rubbed into the wood. Turpentine (mineral spirits) cuts it and makes the penetration faster while providing a solvency for cleaning. It also works with BLO the same way and to some extent helps cut down on the gloss if you use it as you would RLO. With either RLO or BLO you get the authentic scent that's like walking into a military gun room in the '50s. Linseed oil is also the scent that hits you at a gun show (along with old web gear) that guys think is Cosmoline ('I love the smell of Cosmoline in the morning'). You must have this stuff on/in your carbine stock or any other US mil surp with a wood stock. Then every time you open your safe/cabinet it's like walking into that gun room with racks of carbines. Just a little 'time machine' of sorts, if you will.
LOL I know exactly what you mean. My wife caught me smelling my stock the other day.Quote:
Originally Posted by INLAND44
I usually coat the outside (lightly) a couple of times a year, but wonder. Should I put a coat of oil on the inside? Also I went to walmart and got flax seed oil and you were right it smells just like linseed. Now I have rlo and blo and a few days ago I didn't even know what that meant.
Hey, that's a great tip on the flax seed oil. And I forgot to mention Naptha or Napthene dry-cleaning solvent (AKA 'lighter fluid' or Coleman fuel) as an ideal stock, gun and general degreasing/cleaning solvent. It is very flammable, so use it only outside and let any cloths or papers used dry thoroughly before disposing or washing.
Speaking of flammable, any linseed oil is known to be a spontaneous combustion threat on cloth or paper - even steel wool. Dispose of any such waste materials accordingly. One way is to put it in a small steel sealed can made for stowing oily waste until trash day. If you can't do that, you could leave it outdoors in a bucket of water. Seriously, look it up yourself - hard to believe but true.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Linseed_oil
FWIW:Quote:
Originally Posted by DaveN
I do the inside. Just wipe the carbon out with the solvent of your choice and go from there. There is something to be said for using BLO , tung oil ( or even old fashioned spar varnish ) inside . It stops the carbon from sinking into the wood.
ETA: A tablespoon of flaxseed oil every other day never hurt anybody . It does wood a world of good and tastes better than cod liver oil.