Can't Close Bolt on my No.4 Mk 1

Hi all,
I just inherited a No. 4 Mk 1 (I will post pix in the next few days).

My cousin was holding it for me and he removed the bolt before putting it into the case for travel.

When I reinsert the bolt I can’t get it to close all the way. That is, I can push the bolt all the way forward, but when I got to close the bolt and turn it clockwise it will only travel about half the way it should.

I’ve watched a few youtubes that show how to remove and reinsert the bolt and it *looks* like I’m doing everything right, but I still can’t get it to work properly.

Does anyone have any advice for me?

I’m new to Enfields but am looking forward to firing this baby!

Along those lines, what books to you recommend for a Newbie?

Thanks and Semper fi

1) Make sure that the bolt head is screwed fully home
2) make sure that the cocking piece is turned FULLY to the left - clockwise - when viewed from the rear
3) If none of the above, you have a snapped cocking piece

This may seem very basic but are you turning the bolt head down and into the receiver rail?

If your rifle is a No.4 Mark 1, you need to insert the bolt, depress the bolt catch on the right hand side of the receiver and rotate the bolt head down so that the groove in the bolt head can slide along the rail in the receiver wall.
If your rifle is a No.4 mark 1*, it doesn't have a bolt catch but instead has a cut out in the right hand side of the receiver wall. You insert the bolt, push it forward until the bolt head aligns with the cut out in the RHS receiver rail and then rotate the bolt head down, engaging the rail and simply slide the bolt forward.

Hi .. :)

I agree in that it's probable the bolt head rotated a bit counter clockwise and now it won't close. I remember it happening to me with my first Enfield and I thought I'd broke something. :lol:

Perhaps download a complete set of manuals for the Lee Enfield, which includes operating and armourer's maintenance instructions.

The manuals may be found in the Technical Articles for Milsurp Collectors and Re-loaders (click here)


2002 No.4 (All Marks) .303 Rifle Manuals (click here)

Complete Set includes:

- 2002 No.4 (All Marks) .303 Rifle Data Summary
- 2002 No.4 (All Marks) .303 Rifle Parts Identification List
- 2002 No.4 (All Marks) .303 Rifle Operating Instructions
- 2002 No.4 (All Marks) .303 Rifle Equipment Description
- 2002 No.4 (All Marks) .303 Rifle Maintenance Instructions


1991 No.4 (All Marks) .303 Rifle Manuals (click here)

Complete Set includes:

- 1991 No.4 (All Marks) .303 Rifle Operating Instructions
- 1991 No.4 (All Marks) .303 Rifle Maintenance Instructions

Note: The difference between the 1991 set of No.4 Manuals and 2002 No.4 (All Marks) .303 Rifle Manuals, is that the 1991 manual contains armourer's information on how to properly "bed" the No.4 rifle, whereas the newer 2002 manual does not.

Hope this helps... :)

Regards,
Doug

Thanks guys! You guys are great. I'll give this a try tomorrow and let you know how it works out.

just got a mk4 no1 and thought i had the same problem. so i googled something about a bolt catch and ended up here. in my case, i was just being too gentle. i dont have to slam it down, just push firm towards the muzzle. or is mine broken too?

semper fi
erick

Quote:

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When I reinsert the bolt I can’t get it to close all the way. That is, I can push the bolt all the way forward, but when I got to close the bolt and turn it clockwise it will only travel about half the way it should.

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I'm not saying this is what is wrong with yours but that is exactly what mine did after the cocking piece broke.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by harbere1

just got a mk4 no1 and thought i had the same problem. so i googled something about a bolt catch and ended up here. in my case, i was just being too gentle. i dont have to slam it down, just push firm towards the muzzle. or is mine broken too?

semper fi
erick

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No problem, it was designed purposely that way! It eliminates much of the cocking force required on opening, so the operator can more easily extract a "sticky" case.

Makes for faster overall operation as well, but that may have been an unforeseen bonus.

Hi jmoore , don't know if I'm misunderstanding you , but there is no cocking force on opening a L-E , because they all cock on closing , excepting only the No8, and maybe a few specials (unless I'm mistaken).

A word of advice to anyone new to a Lee-Enfield ... although a fair amount of force can be required to close (cock) and chamber a round , don't use the palm of your hand , a jam can hurt , esp. if doing a mad minute . Thumb and forefinger only, in my experience .

bon chance.

bouletbill, watch the cocking piece closely as you open a Lee bolt and you'll see that about 1/7 of the total cocking job takes place on opening, thanks to the cam arrangement at the rear end of the bolt body.

Ah, yes, but this small movement of the cocking piece (and striker) when you LIFT the bolt handle initially is nothing to do with a 'cocking' action. It is a mechanical safety feature. All it does it ensure that the striker is positively withdrawn from the front face of the breech. Because the stud on the cocking piece is now raised from the LONG cam groove to the SHORT cam groove, it ensures that during the remainder of the movemants and actions of the bolt, the striker can NEVER protrude through the face of the bolt. Never that is, until you squeeze the trigger.

This is why it is of critical safety importance that you immediately reject a cocking piece that has a broken cam stud