How do you turn the drums on a mk 3 scope without changing the zero? I'm sure instructions are out there, I just can't seem to find them...
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How do you turn the drums on a mk 3 scope without changing the zero? I'm sure instructions are out there, I just can't seem to find them...
Bit of an ambiguous question.
You can zero the drums once you have zeroed the rifle, otherwise I'm not sure I understand the intent
The slipping scales on the periphery should move using finger pressure, but there's a raised boss on them that has an indentation for a bullet point to enhance turnng force, if required. Just hold the turret stationary by gripping the knurled portion with one hand whilst turning the scale to the desired position w/ the other hand. (If it hasn't been done in a while, they may stick- but don't force it!)
If I've read you right Reaper, the answer is 'it's simple...........'. This is because the 0 - 10 slipping scale is attached to the drum by friction. So when you turn the actual knurled thumbwheel part of the drum turret, the slipping scale rotates with it - because it's fixed to it by friction! If you want to move the slipping scale, then, as correctly described above, you hold the knurled thumbscrew part and slip the slipping scale. I should add that the slipping scale should be a lot tighter than 'finger pressure'. There is a poundage load rate that I forget now.
There's a good little book out about these telescopes by 'a bloke wot writ it' a few years ago. I forget his name but BDL has them in stock!
Of course Reaper6, Peter is joking ... :lol:Quote:
Originally Posted by Peter Laidler
In addition to being a trained and highly experienced military Armourer, he has authored two excellent books about the No.4(T) sniper rifles and their No.32 scopes. They are titled "An Armourer's Perspective: .303 No.4(T) Sniper Rifle", which he co-authored with Ian Skennerton and his own dedicated work, "Telescope Sighting No.32".
If you're really interested in some in-depth learning about the No.4(T) sniper rifles and the No.32 series of scopes, their history, evolution, repair and adjustments for shooting, we'd highly recommend those two books, which are pictured below.
http://photos.imageevent.com/badgerd...Laidler-HC.jpg(Click PIC to Enlarge)http://photos.imageevent.com/badgerd...32-Laidler.jpg
Here's a pamphlet in the MKL that may be of interest as well .. ;)
1952 Instructional Pamphlet for No.4 Mk1(T) sniper rifle
Regards,
Doug
Similar question. I have my L1A1 zeroed (nearly ) at 100 yards - elevation perfect but it shoots 1 inch to the right OR 1 inch to the left at the next click of the windage, even if I rotate the sliding scale to say 5 when it's at zero it is still the actual clicks whihc go too far. is there any way of moving the clicking drum rather than the scale?
Could be your grat block is a little sticky in there and isn't moving freely, allowing the backlash in the leadscrew, which could well equate to a MOA, to make the movements inconsistent with the turning of the lead screw (and drum) The scale is totally irrelevant to the problem, unless it is so loose it is moving and giving you a false reading of your movement of the drum - if you're relying on that and not the feel of the clicks. How positive are the clicks?
Of course that opinion might only be worth what it cost you!
You need to make an internal adjustment by loosening the locking ring and turning the lead screw to line it up to your taste.
Thank you gents. I got it all zeroed in, the rifle to the scope, the sliding scales set, etc... Sure was easy once I knew how the scope worked!
Sorry brian wa sthat advice for my problem or the original poster's problem.
the clicks on my drums are positive and very sharp. Should one click equal 1 1/2 - 2" at one hundred yards or shoudl one click = one inch at 100?
Quote:
Originally Posted by newcastle
Should be 1 MOA (~1" at 100yds) clicks. So how did a No.32 scope end up on top of an L1A1?
---------- Post added at 12:43 AM ---------- Previous post was at 12:42 AM ----------
Unless it's a No.32 Mk.I, then it has 2 MOA clicks for windage.
Isnt the L1A1 the designation for the scope on a L42A1 sniper, configured for the nato 7.62 round.
Quote:
Originally Posted by newbieDAN
Yes, but newcastle's post left the door open for misinterpretation, so...(I did restrain myself for about a day before getting silly!)
Newcastle, for your L1A1 deflection scale (and Mk2 and 3 scopes as well incidentally.....) should equate to 1 click will move the MPI 1 minute of angle (MoA) at 100 yards. OR 1" at 100 yards. The Mk1 deflection scale is different, giving 2 MoA or 2" at 100 yards.
The Mk3 and L1A1 grat block is spring loaded and there should be no backlash in its travel. It is simple to test this by aiming the telescope at a distant aimimg point (a DAP) and watching the pointer move left and right against the DAP while you rotate the turret thumbscrew.
You should do this test with the range scale set at 0 and 10 because the spring loadings change quite significantly beween these ranges
As a matter of interest, some L42's were disposed of with old obsolete .303" calibrated Mk1 and 2 telescopes as part of the CES. Not for any other reason other than a) they were floating around and had been stripped of some bits. B) a spare L1A1 was better han a gash Mk1 and c), I could do it!
Thanks Peter, This is a Mk3 turned L1A1. This scope is one you actually refurbed for Brian Dick a few years back, one of the L42 CES's that were sent to canada originally from disposal. Maybe I was just too clumsy with the turning the windage knob as it certainly sounds like one click should = 1inch at 100yards. I giuess it's an excuse to head to teh range this weekend.
Sorry about that. The advice was for your Charlie. One click should equal 1" at 100 yards with a Mk.2, 3 or L1A1 telescope.
Knocked this up to save scratching the drum from an old rifle tool dated 1959 with 10 minutes of fine filing, and does the job admirably once the outer ring is slackened off using the right hand tool, and then a nip to secure once zero'd.
It would of course be good to have both tools in one machined piece, but found this works fine