Stevens Mod. 620 Trench gun find!

I visited a local pawnshop this weekend and saw a shorty shotgun on the rack looking pretty rough but I saw the "cuts" on the bottom of the barrel. I asked to check it out and the gal behind the counter told me it was just kindling. The stock was loose & bubba soldered an external choke on it, it was filthy and had a streak of house paint down the side. I saw all the military markings and new it was something.... didn't know what exactly at the time, but figured I could at least double my money since it was military.

We struck a deal for $75.00. It wasn't later when I found out on the net what it was! I checked and the serial number 23xxx match on the stock, receiver and barrel. She is kinda rough but cleaned up very good. I'm working on getting that darn choke off now.
Unfortunately no heatshield.

Question is what do i do with it? I was wanting to sell it but have no idea how much to ask, i didn't see any listed on Gunbroker or Auction arms. Also I have been trying to get an idea of when it was made. I did read that the military only purchased 12k between '42 and '45, is that true?
I'll try to post some photos.

Thanks!

Hi,

Careful if you trying to remove the choke, a whole bunch of 620s were done years ago with a Weaver choke/comp. The barrels were tapped on the outside about 1/2 in down and the choke body screwed on tight. Then a bead was added to the choke to line up. I'm having a gun smurf step the threads down on my shotgun and replace a sleeve over the damaged area. Here are pictures of an example choke mod that was done, probably in the late 40s, 50s or 60s on a bunch of surplus 620s.

The pictures are not of my gun, but are exactly like mine.

https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...evens008-1.jpg
https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...evens010-1.jpg

Thanks for the headsup on the choke. Mine isn't a Weaver, but some sort of 3 piece Lyman product. It looks like it has two pins but I don't see where it was tapped into the barrel by looking and feeling the inside of the muzzle. I was hoping this wasn't threaded on.... oh well! I figure if I keep it I'd like it to look as close to original as I can. Even if I do just sell it the new owner would probably as well.

Well that's sounds good.

Some were soldered, some were pinned and some were tapped. Have seen several valuable barrels twisted or dented because of these add on chokes. :thup:

Hey Brightonknight,
I have a Stevens riot with the exact same barrel problem. I actually managed to get the choke off (with a dremel, a steady hand, a hammer, a large flat tip screwdriver, some prayers, and some cussing). I'm new to this problem and want to fix it without cutting down the barrel. What is this process you're talking about? I hoped there was something out there that could fix this but this is the first I've heard about a viable solution.

Hi Nhetzer,

I have a gunsmith (gunsmurf) who has repaired valuable barrels in the past with such damage, going to fix as best as possible my barrel. The idea is to leave the portion on the end of the barrel that has been threaded, lightly remove the threads leaving what looks like a step/shoulder at the end of the barrel. He says he will add and solder/weld a sleeve from barrel material over the end of the barrel and match up the OD of the barrel. Inside of the barrel will look fine since it remains intact. He has the industrial milling type of smithing equipment. He says it should look seamless prior to rebluing or parkerizing, depending on the restoration. The heatshield should also cover the seam if it is visible. That's at least the plan, I can let you know how it goes and at what cost. Should know soon hopefully.

Regards

Quote:

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Originally Posted by brightonknight

Hi Nhetzer,

I have a gunsmith (gunsmurf) who has repaired valuable barrels in the past with such damage, going to fix as best as possible my barrel. The idea is to leave the portion on the end of the barrel that has been threaded, lightly remove the threads leaving what looks like a step/shoulder at the end of the barrel. He says he will add and solder/weld a sleeve from barrel material over the end of the barrel and match up the OD of the barrel. Inside of the barrel will look fine since it remains intact. He has the industrial milling type of smithing equipment. He says it should look seamless prior to rebluing or parkerizing, depending on the restoration. The heatshield should also cover the seam if it is visible. That's at least the plan, I can let you know how it goes and at what cost. Should know soon hopefully.

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Excellent, please do keep me posted. I have a matching riot that makes me cry a little every time I see those threads on the end of the barrel. I half wish it were one of my trenches so I could at least hide it under the heat shield. But anything is better than those threads. Thanks!

i have the same problem, stevens 520-30 factory riot, all the us markings and matching #, some put a weaver choke on it,:banghead: measures exactly 20" end of barrel with threads, bead hole present.

Hi Nhetzer,

I finally got the 620 barrel back from my friend's gunsmith and I am very pleased with the work. The gunsmith from my understanding has to tool up his mill just a little for each type of shotgun application, yet once he gets proceedure down it not too much to perform the fix. It's nice to see we still have some skilled craftsman left in the states.

My barrel looked like the barrel shown previously several comments above. The old choke threads were stepped down, sleeve applied and OD of the sleeve turned down to match barrel. There is a small line left on the outside from the repair, but the interior bore of the barrel was kept original and in one piece all the way through. The end of the barrel was crowned nicely and the sleeve basically repair the integraty of the barrel. There was a bead hole like above in the picture of the thread barrel, but the smith left the choice of leaving it closed or open. Since the bayonet adapter will cover the area where the line is and the hole for a bead, I left it closed.

The repaired barrel has the military markings, the split stampings from Stevens on each side of the barrel, had the three screw notches for the bayonet adapter and matches the SN# of the receiver which has its military markings. I'm pleased with results and will get this old boy back in service looking good. Enclosed are some pictures.

https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...0repair1-1.jpg
https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...0repair2-1.jpg
https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...0repair3-1.jpg

Hi,

Here is the name and address of the gunsmith who fix the threaded end of my 620 barrel. Again he steps down the threads, sleeves the barrel, its turned for correct OD and crowned. The integrity of the inner barrel is left intact. In the pictures above you can see the threaded end of the shotgun barrel before and my barrel after the fix. He charges $100 for the barrel fix. You can call and/or email him to discuss a repair.


dljandro@netzero.com

Jandro's Gun & Sport
Don Jandro
104 E. 2nd Street
P.O. Box 421
Big Springs, NE 69122

do you still have it and is it for Sale? I need it for parts, let me know. Thanks, Scott.

Here is a suggestion. Have your smith remove the sleeve and make a new one 0.001 oversize. Soft solder on the new sleeve and peen the edge of the sleeve until it vanishes into the shoulder of the old barrel. He will need a Full ID steel mandrel. If this is carefully, the line between the sleeve and old barrel will basically vanish! It can be detected only with a magnifying glass under strong light when re-blued. Many nice double rifles use this approach for attaching barrels to monoblocks and it provides a nearly undetectable transition between two parts when properly done.-Rob