Advice on Springfield care?

Hello,

I recently picked up a M1903 Springfield, production 1918 in nice shape. I took it out to my local shooting center/range to buy a bore brush, and people there recommended Clenzoil. As you can see, there is just a little pitting in the 1st picture. Does anyone have opinions on the use of this? I don't want to mess with the collectible value at all, I am a collector and that is my primary concern. Will using Clenzoil diminish the value at all?

Thanks,
Jim Clark

I don't have any experience with Clenzoil. It looks like a nice rifle, though. The damage (pitting) has been done, so the only thing you can do now is prevent any more from occuring.

I would remove the action from the stock and give it a thorough cleaning with some kind of light oil and a soft, brass bristled brush. I use Remoil alot for cleaning, WD-40, too. I also use #0000 steel wool with the oils, but it is a little messy, cause it schreds some.

You will get alot of opinions, all will work, I'm sure.

Welcome to the forum, I'd love to know more about your rifle. Serial #, stock markings.

By the way, your sling is upside-down! :D

Always clean the bore from the chamber end if possible.

Regards,

Jim

I have no experience with Clenzoil either. So, I can offer no comment about using it.

I concur with Mike D. Fine steel wool dampened with gun oil can be used to remove rust freckling. But, once the freckles are removed and any pitting underneath is exposed, then that's about as far as you can go.

For lubrication purposes, I use Hoppes Gun Oil. In comes in a small orange plastic bottle and is available in the Sporting Goods department at K-Mart. Hoppes is a higher viscosity oil, lubricates very well, is stable with temperature, is colorless, leaves no deposit, and doesn't evaporate so quickly.

For preservation purposes, I use Rust-Inhibiting Grease, usually recognized by the acronym, RIG. RIG is available via on-line order from Brownell's. RIG is a light, clear grease that inhibits oxidation (rusting or browning) and doesn't evaporate like gun oil. When applying RIG, one should wear blue nitrile gloves. Once coated with a light film of RIG, the rifle can be wrapped in household wax paper and preserved for a century or more.

One should avoid getting gun oil or RIG on wood!!!

My 2c worth. Happy New Year!

J.B.

Thanks to everyone for the comments, especially for the sling problem! I didn't know that, my first rifle with a sling. All of those product you listed will not harm collectible value? With an old rifle like this, I don't want to mess with originality. About the rifle: Serial # 760586, proof mark, very faint, is on the underside by the trigger. Does anyone know what the 2 (or 2D) stamping designates, or is it not regulation? The only thing I learned about it is it could be a unit assignment.

Could that be a rebarrel or rebuild? Old Guns Net manufacture date site shows 1917 to be the manufacture date for that serial number.

I considered the idea of a rebarrel, the finish on the barrel has more bluing than the bolt, which is turning that greenish color.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by clarkmilitaria

Thanks to everyone for the comments, especially for the sling problem! I didn't know that, my first rifle with a sling. All of those product you listed will not harm collectible value? With an old rifle like this, I don't want to mess with originality. About the rifle: Serial # 760586, proof mark, very faint, is on the underside by the trigger. Does anyone know what the 2 (or 2D) stamping designates, or is it not regulation? The only thing I learned about it is it could be a unit assignment.

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The "2D" marking is a Rock Island Arsenal overhaul inspection stamp from the 1919-21 period.

Hope this helps. Happy New Year!

J.B.

The serial number is in a peculiar serial number range. They halted production at around 750,000 and slowly began coversion to the double heat treatment process. Barrel date could be corrrect. Not so sure I'd be changing out anything. John Beard needs to weigh in on this question. Also is there a stamp on the bolt? what is the stamping?

The rifle appears to be a Bannerman or Sedgley Cadet Rifle.

J.B.

I couldn't find a lot on those cadet rifles, what are they exactly? What is the difference between them and regular Springfeld 1903's? Thanks for the help with the 2D, John.

Bolt markings are: s 4 2, and R.

Thanks,
Jim

The "R" is on the bolt sleeve. Likely from an A3 Remington. Not sure when the bolt dates to, but it is also a replacement.

I fail to recognize the bolt steel lot code marking. I note that the marking appears to be non-standard, which further indicates that you may have a Bannerman rifle.

For information on the Sedgley Cadet Rifles, follow the link and read both pages!

Sedgley Cadet Rifles

Hope this helps. Happy New Year!

J.B.

Thanks everyone for the helpful information. Does this rifle being a "cadet" rilfe now make it significantly less valuable, or the oppposite?
Thanks,
Jim

Less valuable.

J.B.