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I recently got a Russian capture K98 and Id like to post up some pictures and let you guys who know them pick it over and tell me about it and if I got a good deal. I know its far from perfect but I wanted a WW2 German carried rifle and not a fake.
Also is there a safe way to get a electric pen off a bolt? And whats the best way to clean the stock without having to do anything crazy to it? I like the color it just seems really dirty.
Thanks ahead for anyones imput. , Jay
can't tell you if you got a good deal unless you list the price you paid. assuming this is a big 5 rifle, eh...not what i'd call a bad price, but not great, but honestly, i love these k98's and would not hesitate to spend another 425 on one again as i paid that much for a nice 1939 BSW r/c.
as far as the shellac, denatured alcohol will strip that, but not remove the staining. this will also remove the russian black paint too.
as far as removing the penciling, you could do it with some 1200 micron paper, but personally, i'd leave it and get some blue to hide it a little.
is that an "L" stamp just under that bolt take down lug on the stock? can you get some better pics of the stock stamps and also of the receiver stamps? the dirty bird with the wiemar birds is pretty cool
i think you did good, especially with the luftwaffe stock.
I got it from a friend of mine thats a Military Vehicle collector like I am.
I will sure get some better pictures. I have 350 in it right now. Im glad I got a real K98. Thanks and will post more pictures tomorrow.
Stripping the wood is rather easy. Just do it. Do not try to buff the numbers on it. A good collector will spot it and it will hurt the gun's value, besides it is a RC gun. You did well.
What do you mean by buff the numbers? Thank you, Jay
i think he means not to try to remove the numbers essentially. the electropenciled numbers are there from the russians obviously. doesn't hurt anything to leave them there, but to remove by sanding or polishing may affect what you can sell it for later.
350, not bad. i would have bought that one for that.
10-4. I dont want to hurt the historical value at all. I dont have enough into this one to worry about the money yet.
I really wish the import marks on the barrel werent there. Thats what bugs me the most. Thanks for the tips guys. I value your opinions.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Calif-Steve
The rifle acquired the electropencilling because it is an RC rifle assembled from a stock of components from different rifles. IMHO, to remove the electropencilled (re-)numbering would be a falsification, and is not excused by the weaselling "restoring it to it's original configuration" excuse. The original configuration of those parts was on several different rifles. Please read my recent contribution on this topic.
I confess to gradually developing a conservative/collectors viewpoint on such matters. So many people have writtern "Buy the rifle, not the story". Likewise, I say: value the rifle for what it is, and don't try to fake the (hi)story by removing such markings.
:wave:
P.S: Jurisdictions vary. In Mauserland, for instance, since all cartridge firearms are registered, and identified by the number on the receiver and/or barrel, to deliberately deface, remove or alter such numbers without authorisation and registration of the change is a criminal act!
I agree. its also illegal to take the serial number from a gun in our great country. The electric pencil marks on the bolt by the Russians would be far from removing the stamped registered serial number from the receaver. Im going to re blue it just on the electric pencil numbers to make it look a little better. I like that idea. Any collector would be able to see that they are still there.
Im not looking to destroy the history of a rifle. I know some heros around the world do it to make a fake. Thats why this isnt a Mitchells Mauser gun.
Heres some pictures. I just started cleaning up the stock a little and found this. I know theres more to un cover but I cant work on the rifle until this evening.
Browse the MKL for examples of stock and metal markings .... Germany ... :)
A couple of examples ...
1939 Code 42 K98k (Karabiner 98) Rifle (Mfg by Mauser Werke AG, Oberndorf a/N)
Nazi Eagle & WaA63 Inspection Marks stamped into right side of butt, surmounted with Luftwaffe "L" ownership marking plus Eagle.
http://photos.imageevent.com/badgerd...20_Medium_.JPG(Click PIC to Enlarge)http://photos.imageevent.com/badgerd...20_Medium_.JPG
1939 Code 147 K98k (Karabiner 98) Rifle (Mfg by JP Sauer und Sohn Gewehrfabrik, Suhl)
H = Heer (Army) WaA37 Inspection Marks
http://photos.imageevent.com/badgerd...1970Medium.jpg(Click PIC to Enlarge)http://photos.imageevent.com/badgerd...1972Medium.jpg
Regards,
Doug
More pictures.
Whats the ( P ) marking on the receaver? I have found a number 5 and a B along with two other markings on the stock so far. Its amazing what the shellac covers up!
is that a cupped or flat buttplate stock?
can you take pics of the whole rifle?
It's a flat buttplate, and if original to the barreled action is correct for a code 237, 1939 Berliner-Lubecker-Machinenfabrick produced rifle. This factory didn't change to cupped buttplates until the "m" serial numbered rifles in the middle of 1941. That is a nice Luftwaffe stock also, if it's from the rifle it should be numbered in the barrel channel with at least four of the serial number. 1939 was also the first year that laminate stocks and handguards were used at factory 237, before that they are all solid walnut.
Thats a great bit of history , thanks.
The butt plate # matches the serial number on the barrel channel.
I will take pictures of the rifle today after I finish cleaning it. Its taken me three days to properly clean it and get the cosmoleen out of it. -Jay
P.S. Just reread what you said GUTS and I will go look at the serial numbers now.
Any info on the ( P ) marking on the receaver?
Also how do I know if I need the 10 or 12 in cleaning rod? Id like to peice it back together.
12" for a K98k (at least, that's what's in my Israeli!)
The 1939 code 237 used the 10" cleaning rod untill later in the production run when they changed to the 12 1/2" rod. The serial number range was 5671 to 67911 so you should be able to see where your rifle fits in.
When did they use a 15 5/8 inch cleaning rod? Or is it for another mauser?
As far as I know the 12 1/2" cleaning rod was standard from 1940 to the end of production at the Berlin-Lubecker factory. Doesn't the Yugoslavian M48 have the long cleaning rod?
K98k's had either 10 or 12 inch rods as far as I know. If it's German maybe a Gewehr 98, WW1 vintage, with that long barrel?
Pictures as requested.
Actually in the literature I have the cleaning rods are classified as either 10" or 12.5"(except for the Mauser Oberndorf factory which is listed as 10" and 12"). Either way if we just call them short and long it should work.Quote:
Originally Posted by mike webb
Now please don't misinterpret me, but the best answer is to screw in your rod and see if it fits!
:wave:
Good grief! I thought "12.5 inches must be an approximation, let's see what they really are"
So I measured a couple. The length is just over 317 mm.
Which is... EXACTLY 12.5", to within the thickness of the paint!
Nice info to know if im looking to buy one so I dont waste money and buy one that doesnt fit. Il go with the 10in, Thanks guys.
The length depends on where the retaining nut is in the stock. With the action out of the stock look on the bottom where the front band would be and if you see a brass nut sunk into the wood it is a 10" rod. If not, then turn the stock over and look in the barrel channel about 2.5" back from the front band and the brass nut should be there and you need a 12.5" rod. Original rods the threaded part has a slight point, and the loop area where the patch goes is more rounded. Reproductions are usually flat on the end of the threads and the patch area is more square and may look like new metal.
Wineman