To remove or not to remove rust on a luger

Hello. I am in temporary custody of a PO 8 byf 42 marked Luger with matching numbers throughout. It is a vet bring-back from WWII. When I learned that it had not been oiled in years and was being stored in its leather holster (the pre-War holster and the maintenance tool have matching numbers but not the same number as the pistol) I offered to clean and oil it. As I feared, there is some light rust on the grip and a little on the FXO 37 marked magazine. The owner wishes to keep the pistol as a family heirloom.

My question is should I take some 0000 steelwool to the rust, which will remove some finish, or leave it alone?

Thanks in advance for any expert advice.

I would leave it up to the owner. Explain the pros and cons and let him decide.
B

The owner is looking to me for that advice. As an heirloom, I'd want to deal with the rust before it gets too serious. As an asset, at least in the short term, I might leave it alone.

In my mind, if there's corrosion threatening the future condition of the firearm then measures must be taken. An heirloom is just that. It's not in 100% condition now. Personally I've had good luck with extra fine steel wool and oil but there are other solutions, I'm sure we'll hear some shortly.

I'd get rid of the rust. Better some worn finish than rust slowly eating away the metal. Just my $0.02

As suggested above, 4/0 steel wool and oil will do a good job of removing the rust without harming the remaining blue IF you don't scrub it too hard. Best to take it slow and easy. Oil the pistol heavily and let it set for a day or so before trying to remove any rust, and on the worst areas let the oil set even longer. Try the areas with the least amount of rust first to get the feel of removing the rust. Change pads of steel wool frequently as the rust itself is the most abrasive. Anything you use will remove the finish if done carelessly, but the 4/0 steel wool is as gentle as anything you can use.

If the rust has already caused serious pitting, the value of the gun as a collector´s item has already deteriorated. Steel wool (or a fine bronze or stainless steel rotary brush) will most likely also remove the bluing. It would then need to be expertly re-blued (there are a number of people on the two US Luger web sites that can do this reliably) and the small parts re-strawed. It would then still maintain its value as a family heirloom and look attractive in the manner in which it originally left the factory.

If, on the other hand, there is only light, superficial rust on the grip, this can be cleaned and the gun will maintain it´s market value.

The rust wasn't "original", get rid of it, it's called "maintenance".

You see it all the time, "never use steel wool on a pistol", but up until 1937 the Lugers were rust blued. The rust blue process started with coating the pistol parts with a solution containing nitric acid. The pistol covered in the solution was put in a humidity cabinet to speed up the rusting process. The pistol was taken out, washed in water to halt the process, and the rust was carded off with wads of steel wool. It removed the rust but left the blue underneath. Where the rust has become corrosion, it will have removed the blue in those areas.

The pistol shown below exhibits it's original rust blue finish, and started life being scrubbed with steel wool.

https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...0/r2rrrr-1.jpg

Villiers, no matter how "expertly " you re blue, the gun has been reblued. That's not original. You can't change that. The collector value is gone. This one's an heirloom anyway, not a collector piece.

Bronze wool is the least likely to remove more of the bluing. As stated do not use steel wool and do use plenty of oil as you lightly scrub the rusted area. Best to do a little bit at a time but be sure you remove all of the rust or it will just continue under an oil coating. Light surface rust is the easiest to remove but if it's advanced to pitting then as stated value has decreased by quite a bit.

This is the part I hate. You tell us not to do this or that will happen. I did that and it didn't happen. I'm not talking through my a**. I speak from experience and would never lead anyone to damage their firearm.

Bronze wool was made for using on boats rather than steel wool. Any remnants of the steel wool left on a boat hull would naturally rust, where remnants of bronze wool don't rust. Bronze wool is not any better than steel wool on removing rust on a pistol, and in fact the steel wool comes in finer grades. If bronze wool had been better, DWM would have used it bluing their pistols.
Up until the mid 1950's Remington Arms rust blued their shotguns and rifles. Instead of using steel wool they used power driven fine wire wheels which was faster than scrubbing the rust by hand. If the fine wire wheels didn't hurt the bluing, 4/0 steel wool sure won't hurt it.

Whereas DWM in Berlin rust blued their Lugers, Mauser used an acid solution. Mauser used up a large stock of DWM parts when they took over Luger production. So if the gun was rust blued, you could very likely repeat the process by carding light rust off with a fine steel wire brush. Of it´s cold blued, a specialist would must likely have to remove the surface bluing. As stated previously, it´s your choice whether to maintain the gun´s collector value, or to achieve an attractive family heirloom. As far as I know, the specialists on the Luger sites are booked up for months ahead and I would personally ask them to for their advice.

Hot caustic blue had not come into use before DWM-BKIW was taken over by Mauser, but even after Mauser started to build the P.08 they continued to rust blue the pistols up until mid 1937. Starting about mid year in 1937 Mauser began to blue the P.08 in hot caustic blue.

I use Waxoyl. A British rust proofing for cars. It takes rust off with steel wool and it keeps it off.Plus it nurtures the holster leather and wood grips.No Oxidation. I use it on all my machines, leather, wood. I clean my guns with it after shooting.Gary

Never thought about Waxoyl. Problem solved!

(I also use Waxoyl ... and it´s magic)

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Originally Posted by villiers

Never thought about Waxoyl. Problem solved!

(I also use Waxoyl ... and it´s magic)

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When I use Waxoyl I mix it with oil paint thinner "white spirits". 50/50 and use a hand held spray bottle to apply. Thinner evaporates leaving a thin wax film. Gary

I've found, in my 50 years of gun ownership, that aluminum foil is the best light rust remover. Use it on a dry surface. Rub away the rust. It will leave a light silvery film that you can then wipe off with a patch with a light oil such as Gunzilla on it. The Waxoyl sounds like a good idea for long term storage. I'll have to get some and try it.

Excellent for long term storage and ease of use is LPS 3. It has a protective wax in suspension, and when sprayed on the carrier evaporates leaving a wax film.

My dad had 10 or so Lincoln gasoline engine welding machines at a plant that produced bromine. Bromine is very caustic, and the fumes were eating holes in the radiators of the welding machines. He was getting two or three months use out of a radiator before it started leaking in the fins, so a Lincoln representative came down to see what could be done. He recommended spraying the radiator every morning with LPS 3, and none of the radiators failed in the remaining 10 months they were on that job.

LPS 1 Greaseless Lubricant (No. 37129) provides a dry, thin, lubricating film that penetrates deep into minute crevices, dries fast and won't attract dust or dirt. It loosens rusted and frozen parts, provides short-term corrosion resistance, cleans and lubricates delicate mechanisms. Displaces moisture, good for drying out or lubricating electrical/electronic components. 11-oz. can.
LPS 2 Industrial-Strength Lubricant (No. 37130) is a multipurpose lubricant and penetrant with added corrosion protection. It loosens rusted and frozen parts and reduces wear caused by friction and corrosion. 11-oz. can.
LPS 3 Heavy-Duty Rust Inhibitor (No. 37131) forms a soft, waxy film for long-term corrosion protection and lubrication. It works under severe weather conditions to protect metal parts in storage for up to two years. Especially suited to industrial, aviation and electrical and automotive applications. Also provides non-sling lubrication for chains, cable or wire rope and stops corrosion of aluminum. 11-oz. can.

My thanks to all for helpful thoughts and suggestions.

I'm up for the waxoyl or lps3. Where do you get them?

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Originally Posted by Kwizard

I'm up for the waxoyl or lps3. Where do you get them?

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I get my Waxoyl in the US from Moss Motors. They are a British sport car parts specialist in California. Google them. Gary

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Originally Posted by Kwizard

I'm up for the waxoyl or lps3. Where do you get them?

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Most places that cater to construction business carry the LPS. Most of the wholesalers that sell to electrical and mechanical contractors carry it.