Sharps rifles

I'm at the point in my collecting, that I'm ready to invest in a Sharps, more from just having one as a representative of the rifle as opposed to competitive shooting.

There are models by C. Sharps, Shiloh Sharps, Uberti, and Pedersoli. There is currently an 18 month waiting period for a Shiloh Sharps but only a 30-60 day wait for a Uberti.

I've yet to find a dealer back here in MO that has a sample of any of them to look at to get an idea of how well made they are, so would appreciate any thoughts or suggestions from the group on the best deal.

I shot a Shiloh Sharps in N-SSA competition,(I've since sold it) they shoot very well. I'd look for a used one. Try the N-SSA site for links, they have a bulletin board and sutler links. The one had I got used and would do 1" or so groups at 50 yards.


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My Pedersoli Long Range Competition Sharps from Pedersoli, in 45-70, can shoot one 1" hole off a sandsack at 100 meters. Came 2nd in the BDMP 300 meters a couple of years ago, just one behind the winner. If the winner had had my rifle, he would have been a few points further in front! And I have also shot at 1000 yards with it, in England and France. Hit the target too!

Buy whatever clangs your gong (silhouette shooting!) but you will not find a more accurate out-of-the-box BP rifle than the Pedersoli Sharps. More accurate than I can aim, anyway!

:wave:
Patrick

Don´t know if he exports to the States, but the "Sharps Doc" has some good made rifles based on Pedersoli Sharps.

Traveller what kind of Sharps are you interested in? Civil War era or cartridge? Rifle or carbine?

I'm with Patrick on the Pedersoli's. I have a pair of them, a 45-70 and an S.C. Robinson Confederate Sharps in .54 cal paper cartridge. Both exhibit excellent quality workmanship and are boringly accurate.

I have both a C. Sharps New Model 1874 and a Shiloh Sharps 1874. I know that these rifles command a premium because of the waiting period to have them made to your order, but when you consider the amount of hand work involved and the high quality materials used, you have to appreciate it for what it's worth. I think the waiting period is now shorter to order them. I had to wait over two years for my C. Sharps in 1991. I bought my Shiloh in 1983 and it came in less than a month.
I have to admit that I have been outshot by guys using Pedersoli Sharps, but they were just better shooters than me.

You might contact this company.........

The Three Balls Website - Homepage

They have one on the rack, but I don't know what brand it is. The owner had a C. Charps once, it may be his.

Personally, if it is just for a representative example, I'd look for an original one in nice shape for not much more than the new custom jobs.

HTH,

Emri

There is no doubt that the Pedersoli's shoot great, but if you want something close to the original Sharps, go with the Shiloh. The wood and the receiver fit like they were grown together, and the finish is outstanding.

This is my Shiloh in .40 2 1/2 (.40-70 Sharps Straight).

https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...1/igj1jb-1.jpg
https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...1/fyj343-1.jpg

I have both a Pedersoli in 45/70 and a C. Sharps in 45/120 Both are hands down fine made rifles. The C. Sharps is a tack driver to way out there. I have a 555 grain bullet I designed for it. My C. Sharps has a broach cut rifled barrel made by Badger Ordinance. I do not know if C. Sharps still uses them but if they do it is a superior barrel.

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Originally Posted by Johnny Peppers

There is no doubt that the Pedersoli's shoot great, but if you want something close to the original Sharps, go with the Shiloh. The wood and the receiver fit like they were grown together, and the finish is outstanding.

This is my Shiloh in .40 2 1/2 (.40-70 Sharps Straight).

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Holy Cow Johnny! That's simply a work of art.

If you are going to get a Sharps to shoot, get one in a caliber that is comfortable to shoot. When a friend decided to buy his first Sharps he wanted the biggest thing they made. It found an early Farmington, NY Sharps in .50-140 with all the reloading equipment. My friend quickly discovered why it was for sale. It is the most brutal thing I have ever fired, and I absolutely would not fire it again.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Johnny Peppers

If you are going to get a Sharps to shoot, get one in a caliber that is comfortable to shoot. When a friend decided to buy his first Sharps he wanted the biggest thing they made. It found an early Farmington, NY Sharps in .50-140 with all the reloading equipment. My friend quickly discovered why it was for sale. It is the most brutal thing I have ever fired, and I absolutely would not fire it again.

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That led us to the .45-90, good enough for longer distances and soft to shoot for the weight of the rifle. And not so expensive in equipment and reloading costs.

I had a Shiloh Business Rifle in .45-70 with the military buttstock, and with 500 grains bullets fired off a benchrest you didn't want to shoot it too much.

The Sharps from Sharps Doc is a heavy barreled one with appr. 6 Kg and it is very soft to shoot like a .308 Win factory ammo.

I fire reduced charged target loads in my Sharps. They don't kick as much and give very good accuracy for paper targets as well as dinging steel gongs out to 400 yards. Bore leading is also less too.

I talked to the people at Shiloh Sharps while at the Shot Show. They are very nice and have rifles in inventory ready for immediate sale and delivery. People do cancel orders and they have an up to date list of available rifles.

I've just bought a Pedersoli 54 cal, paper patched Sharps Carbine. Luckily...I had two experienced Sharps carbine shooter's at the range to baby step me in the loading of the paper patched bullets with black powder, the cleaning of my action, {1/3 hydrogen peroxide, 1/3 rubbing alcohol, 1/3 Simple Green,} and the use of high pressure plumbing grease for the action.

My question: Where can I buy 54 cal. loading plastic trays, so I can pour black powder into the vertical standing hair curler paper that is glued to the base of the bullet?

I've just ordered 4 - 25 round, plastic 20 guage holding boxes from Cabelas --- hoping that will do the trick.

Any suggestions?

Thanks,

Erno86

When I shot a Sharps in competition I used Pam cooking oil spray on the breach block and gas check. I sprayed it on before the first event and it would last through 5 or 6 events just wipe off fouling and spray a little more on. It's also cheaper than the other grease and is made to withstand the heat. It really keeps the fouling soft, which is the whole point.
I used to nitrate my own paper. I used copy paper or computer paper. It will combust, I never had a problem with stray embers in the bore.


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Quote:

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Originally Posted by erno86

Where can I buy 54 cal. loading plastic trays, so I can pour black powder into the vertical standing hair curler paper that is glued to the base of the bullet?

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I have a Frankford Arsenal loading try for the 7.62x54 R Russian cartridge. The rim diameter is 14.89 = 0.586", so the holes in the tray ought to be large enough to stand the paper tube for a 54 bullet in the paper tube.

I use shot gun loading trays and ammo boxes with the removable trays. I also shoot .58 cal.


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