Some questions about my Type 99!! w/ 8 pictures

Hello All,

Just bought my first Type 99 at a local gun show for $175.00. I know it is a late series 33, made in the Toyo Kogyo Arsenal. Any other information anybody can provide on my rifle I'd love to hear it .The finish on the wood is pretty rough, but I have no plans on messing with it. The metal surfaces are my main concern. What actions should I take to stop it from getting any worse or even fix it? Is getting it re-blued out of the question?

https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...10202052-1.jpg
https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...10202115-1.jpg
https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...10201818-1.jpg
https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...02016561-1.jpg


https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...10203952-1.jpg
https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...10203734-1.jpg
https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...10201326-1.jpg
https://www.milsurps.com/images/impo...10201948-1.jpg

Any help at all...Any tips, tricks, product recommendations are greatly appreciated!! Thank you!

I had a friend who's T99s kept rusting even with a heavy coat of oil and grease on it. We took the rifles apart and degreased them, then washed them thoroughly with hot soapy water, then applied gun oil and reassembled them. The rusting stopped. The rifles were stored near the ocean which caused salt to get onto the metal surfaces.

+1 on what he said.

Thanks Guys. That will be the next thing I try. For 175 do you think this was a good deal? It is my first Arisaka.

Does the serial number on the bolt match that on the receiver? If so, you got a good buy.:thup:

It does not unfortunately...and me being impatient, bought a cleaning rod for it and turns out this series has the hole part way drilled, and were never issued with the gun!

Lauth 12, I think $175 is about right for your rifle. I would just wipe the metal down with gun oil. The finish looks just as it should for a WWII battle rifle. I find it pleassing as is. If you were to reblue it would be just another $75 Bubba rifle. If it has never been dissasembled, Do not take it apart. (Look at the staking on the screws.) Nice find!

Thanks Salt Flat, I was thinking the same. Even though I never plan to sell it, I'd still like it keep it as original as possible.

I completely disassembled a T-99 that I picked up, then I used an extra fine steel wool and GI bore cleaner to gently remove the rust. I wanted to save as much of the original finish as possible, so I applied the steel wool in a circular motion, only using pressure when needed. Then a good light coat of light oil. It worked great. Then I used Morphy's oil soap on the stock, which cleaned up beautifully. It took a few hours but it was worth it (and fun)
Good luck,

Thanks Jayhawk. I used boiled linseed oil one the stock and couldn't tell much. Maybe I'll try the Morphy's!

Fine steel wool and oil is all you should need for the metal. It doesn't look that bad. It shouldn't affect the finish at all and will get the surface rust off.

Japanese rifles do not have BLO, they used a finish type native to Japan, should be some good posts on here about them. Hard to duplicate and as the plants used have similar properties to poison ivy, they can be a skin irritant as well.

Be careful with the Murphy's it the (I believe its Usuri?)ifinish may not like it too strong.

The wood finish used on properly made (prewar, not last-ditch!) Japanese rifles was Urushi lacquer. This is the original "Japanese lacquer" - before Europeans starting applying the name to all sorts of chemical varnish products. It is considerably more chemically resistant and tougher than shellac, seals better than linseed oil, and if I could get some I would use it to replace the knackered shellac on "Ivan the Terrible" (there's another cutesy nickname for those who like that sort of thing:D).

Just go here:

http://www.nihonart.de/pdf/Urushi_Flyer_Studenten.pdf

and you will begin to realize that proper urushi lacquering requires a bit more than just sloshing it on with a paintbrush. - Which was how it was done on "Ivan the Terrible".

So, a warning to Bubba and his friends and followers - stripping off an urushi finish because it is scratched is worse than stripping off a blued surface from an old gun just because it is worn in a few places. Worse because, whereas rebluing metal is a fairly straightforward engineering surface-finishing technique, producing an urishi lacquer finish from a blank surface requires craftsmanship. I can't do it, but I would be delighted to hear if anyone on the forum can!

:wave:
Patrick